Estes Saturn V styro wraps problem

I am finally attempting to put these wraps on the tube since putting this project on hold a few months ago. My problem is when I get them on the tube and after 24 hours of the Super77 drying, the part where the ends of the wraps meet wants to peel up. I have tried brushing some liquid cement in the joint but this causes the 77 to free up. I have tried CA but it seems to take too long to dry and I don't really trust it on this. I got one wrap to sorta hold but it looks like junk after using some Tenax 7R.

My method for applying the 77 was to mask off the rocket then spray it on the tube. I let that coat dry for about 10 seconds then sprayed another coat on. I let this coat dry for about 15 to 20 seconds then started applying the wrap. The tackiness was as I expect the 77 to be and should have held the joint better IMO.

I now officially dislike wraps...

Tape the ends together and let it dry overnight...

Later! OL JR

Time to get out the epoxy...and the Bondo spot putty, because you'll need something to patch the seams where the wraps don't meet up.

LW Bercini said:

Time to get out the epoxy...and the Bondo spot putty, because you'll need something to patch the seams where the wraps don't meet up.

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Ok. So I haven't thought about using some USC epoxy...hmmm...

Best advice I can offer is to follow Ol Jr's suggestion since you've already installed at least one wrap with spray77. tightly tape the entire width of the seem and let it stand a day or two.

HOWEVER:
for the other wraps I'd suggest using a brush on weldwood contact cement with the styrene wraps. apply by brush to both surfaces (Tube & inside wrap) allowing to compltely dry to the touch depending on the humidity this could be 15-30 minutes. Once try to the touch use waxed paper as a slide out contact shield applying the wrap starting at your drawn perpendicular tube aligment line.

Micromeister said:

Best advice I can offer is to follow Ol Jr's suggestion since you've already installed at least one wrap with spray77. tightly tape the entire width of the seem and let it stand a day or two.

HOWEVER:
for the other wraps I'd suggest using a brush on weldwood contact cement with the styrene wraps. apply by brush to both surfaces (Tube & inside wrap) allowing to compltely dry to the touch depending on the humidity this could be 15-30 minutes. Once try to the touch use waxed paper as a slide out contact shield applying the wrap starting at your drawn perpendicular tube aligment line.

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It just so happens I have some of the Weldwood glue!

Question: The wax paper doesn't stick very bad does it?

How do you get the excess glue off the rocket? Does it roll away like rubber cement?

Micromeister said:

Best advice I can offer is to follow Ol Jr's suggestion since you've already installed at least one wrap with spray77. tightly tape the entire width of the seem and let it stand a day or two.

HOWEVER:
for the other wraps I'd suggest using a brush on weldwood contact cement with the styrene wraps. apply by brush to both surfaces (Tube & inside wrap) allowing to compltely dry to the touch depending on the humidity this could be 15-30 minutes. Once try to the touch use waxed paper as a slide out contact shield applying the wrap starting at your drawn perpendicular tube aligment line.

Click to expand...

Know this! If you decide to use contact cement, there are NO adjustment windows. Once you get started, there is no return. You better have it right from the get-go. Using epoxy will give you adjustment windows. I recommend 30 minute and use rubber bands to keep it in place. Let it dry thoroughly. My reasoning is because I suck at tube wraps. That being said, I need a window of adjustment. If you aren't totally confident with your wrapping skills, give yourself the advantage of an adjustment window.

I will try my next wrap with epoxy. Like you, I too have poor wrap skills. If all goes well, I will use epoxy on the rest of the build. I have three wraps left; the middle one on the large tube, the largest one and the transition wrap. The transition will prove to be the hardest due to the fact that the wrap does not conform to the transition.

Gary Byrum said:

Know this! If you decide to use contact cement, there are NO adjustment windows. Once you get started, there is no return. You better have it right from the get-go. Using epoxy will give you adjustment windows. I recommend 30 minute and use rubber bands to keep it in place. Let it dry thoroughly. My reasoning is because I suck at tube wraps. That being said, I need a window of adjustment. If you aren't totally confident with your wrapping skills, give yourself the advantage of an adjustment window.

Click to expand...

bigone5500 said:

The transition will prove to be the hardest due to the fact that the wrap does not conform to the transition.

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This part is a bugger. I complained about this manufacturing issue with it's maker. No resolve. You have to exercise your best crafting skills on this. I'm still not happy with my end result but such are kits these days.

Gary Byrum said:

Know this! If you decide to use contact cement, there are NO adjustment windows. Once you get started, there is no return. You better have it right from the get-go. Using epoxy will give you adjustment windows. I recommend 30 minute and use rubber bands to keep it in place. Let it dry thoroughly. My reasoning is because I suck at tube wraps. That being said, I need a window of adjustment. If you aren't totally confident with your wrapping skills, give yourself the advantage of an adjustment window.

Click to expand...

That's what the wax paper is for in micro's post above...

Not sure how well it sticks to wax paper... at first blush I'd say "not much" but then again I haven't tried it, Micro has... ask him...

Someone asked about cleaning up the excess gorilla snot on the model after the wrap is on... if you pre-marked the tube for EXACTLY where the wrap is supposed to go (top and bottom edges) and then apply the glue to THOSE AREAS ONLY, there should be NO excess glue to clean up...

Later! OL JR

So what would be the downside to using USC 150 thick compared to USC 635 thin on these wraps?

Got another wrap done. I used USC 635 thin on this one, no fillers. Mixed a 6 gram batch and brushed it onto the wrap then applied. I have it taped pretty good so I should have no lifting.