• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of multi-channel sound.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive The Rocketry Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Peace Probe

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

darthgriffin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2011
Messages
186
Reaction score
0
I've brought up this design before, but I decided to start over since the name, materials and design are now finalized.

I've completed the motor mount and baffle with out getting and pictures during the process. I also have the fins cut, sanded and coated with CWF.
That's the aft BT with spirals filled with CWF. I still need to cut and fill the upper BT.
Peace Probe 001.jpgPeace Probe 002.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Peace Probe.ork
    99.7 KB · Views: 236
Last edited:
I decided to make this a zipper-less rocket because it's become such a pain in the ass that I want it to last as long as possible. With that in mind I went with two half-moons for the mid and lower barriers and coated them with Loctite 5min epoxy once the glue cured. I glued two small scraps of the same plywood onto the back of the top plate so there would be enough material for the entire eye bolt to screw into. After filling the screw hole with epoxy I screwed in the eye bolt and dabbed some more epoxy around the top. Then all that was left was to glue the top plate into the coupler.
Peace Probe 004.jpgPeace Probe 003.jpg
 
I cut the fore BT this week and sanded the tip relatively flat. I won't be able to glue it in place and fill in the gaps until I have a chance to swing by the local army surplus store for some paracord.
Peace Probe 001.jpg

I also glued the coupler/baffle and MMT in place.
Peace Probe 003.jpgPeace Probe 004.jpg

I left the bottom of the MMT sticking out of the BT by about 1cm. It seemed to me that it would be easier to remove the motor that way.
Peace Probe 005.jpg

I'm curious as to everyone's preference on this. Do you keep your MMT flush with the bottom of your rocket or do you let it stick out a little?
 
depends on whether the fins get in the way...as I recall yours do not. about a 1/4" of motor sticking out past the airframe usually works for me.
rex
 
I'm curious as to everyone's preference on this. Do you keep your MMT flush with the bottom of your rocket or do you let it stick out a little?

What a unique design! As for the motor mount, on the vast majority of my builds I leave it flush.
 
I sanded the CWF smooth on all the fins, but some of them warped durring the process. After searching the threads I took the worst one and microwaved it in a damp towel. It's been sitting in the garage under an unabridged dictionary and some dumbbells. I commited to leaving it for 3 days and I finally get to check it tonight.

If it turns out to be nice and flat, should I glue it on immediately, or wait to see if it curls up again?
 
wood warps (usually) because one side has a higher moisture content than the other. it seems to me that, w/ balsa fins the main thing is to let the wood equillize the moisture. you should be okay to let it sit after it is flat, though I will admit to using a cooling rack (for cakes) to let mine finish drying after pressing flat :).
rex
 
I sanded the CWF smooth on all the fins, but some of them warped durring the process. After searching the threads I took the worst one and microwaved it in a damp towel. It's been sitting in the garage under an unabridged dictionary and some dumbbells. I commited to leaving it for 3 days and I finally get to check it tonight.

If it turns out to be nice and flat, should I glue it on immediately, or wait to see if it curls up again?
Well, I hope it worked out. Im really interested in seeing how they will look on the rocket.
 
wood warps (usually) because one side has a higher moisture content than the other. it seems to me that, w/ balsa fins the main thing is to let the wood equillize the moisture. you should be okay to let it sit after it is flat, though I will admit to using a cooling rack (for cakes) to let mine finish drying after pressing flat :).
rex

So true. I use a rack also.
 
Update: several attempts to flatten the fins have failed. I'm just going to fill in some divots with the Titebond molding and trim glue and just glue them on very carefully.
 
Back
Top