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Okay, thanks. Another noob question that's only slightly off topic: What are people using for painting stands for larger rockets? I'm finishing up an Estes Leviathan. I really don't want to use a hand held paint wand and I prefer to keep the rocket horizontal since I get a more uniform coat...

Another prime painting question: Do people prime paint and sand plastic nose cones? Usually they're already white. What's the general opinion? Thanks for replies. Michael MacDonald

This is an excellent thread! I so want to build a Mars Snooper. Its one of the most beautiful model rockets ever made. Question: Which of the three kits is the most challenging? Which is the easiest?

A long paused follow up question: What would be a good way to attach a 1/2" elastic shock cord to a kevlar line achored to a motor mount bulkhead? Dual loops, swivel? Thanks for ideas.

That blue is beautiful! Does anyone have a recommendation for a black metal flake spray paint. I couldn't find one, even with a google search. Thanks.

I know that this has been answered here many times before but I'll ask again. Is it better to do the sanding sealer/sanding before or after the fins are mounted to the airframe?

Thank you for these great sugestions.

Because we've been trapped inside our home due to the pandemic, I was able to persuade my wife to build a model rocket! She chose the ASP Neo-Standard, a good looking but easy 4BNC 18mm kit. This was a first for her and she did a fantastic job. She is about to finish it and wants to add some...

I have a Kevlar shock cord that is starting to untwist for about 1/8" at a critical point, just above the motor mount tube as it enters the body tube. It isn't frayed or cut, just the twist is unraveling. Can I use a dab of glue to hold it together or will that weaken it? Its probably okay...

Thank you to everyone who have kept this thread alive. I've learned a lot from all of you.

Thank you. The label changes are confusing but will try it after the repaint.

Have you actually used this on a rocket?

Its been unclear as to which brand of floor polish to use since Futura has been renamed and/or changed so many times.

Not yet. I've been letting the paint set for a month before I try to redue it. There have been some good suggestions here, like washing the NC well first. I'll repaint with the same Krylon gloss black and that sit for at least 1 month before attempting a clear coat. I have mixed feelings...

Okay, good to know. I can strengthen the tube with CA clue.

Slightly off topic but Leviathan related. I'm finishing up a build on an Estes Leviathan and seem to have lost the Green Spacer Ring that sits on the outside top of the 29mm motor tube. The Estes part # is 031360, but that's the same part number as the 29mm motor mount tube. My questions are...

Thanks! You echo another poster who also had problems with Krylon clear. I'm not going to use it again. I guess I have to find something else to hold the decals in place and give the finish a wet look.

No to belabor the point, but if your theory were correct, that would have happened with the Krylon Black Gloss. It didn't. It happened only when the clear Krylon was applied over the black. Someone else mentioned that they had a similar problem with the Krylon clear. This makes me draw a...

I sense your skepticism but I suggest you give it a try. It sands to a beautiful flat finish base and covers up a lot of minor grain imperfections and spirals on LPRs.

The Sky Raider nose plastic nose cone was purchased in 1977 and has sat unfinished for all these years. I suspect that any residual formaldehyde had escaped or stabilized in that time. The black gloss coat didn't wrinkle after sitting for 48 hours. It was only when I applied the clear coat...