Search results

Now I have another reason to look you up at LDRS!

It's a spacer. Import machines often write it that way. If you pull off one of the gear sets, you will find an axle, probably with a keyway. The spacers are rings with a matching keyway on my machine, about 3/4" diameter on mine. The arm the gears are attached to usually has a T-slot all the way...

Nice! I'm in the middle of a small build and finding a way to get the switch mounted was bugging me. I really like the Quantum and Proton and think they are plenty safe with the two level switching required to trigger. Of course, between fire danger and virus danger there haven't been any...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4605006 I hope it's helpful for some people. I had it on there, but I don't see it now. The inserts I used are these. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/94180A331

I'm happy to share it. I do have an account there, but I wasn't sure if it would be worth the trouble to post. I'll get it set up and post the link here.

Would something like that work for you? You might need to mod it a little before printing to match your setup, and it was used for a 6" rather than 5.5", but it might well fit, it was so spacious in there I didn't bother trying to fill it completely.

As someone who has worked on a lot of electronics and computer repair issues, I see far more faults in mechanical parts. I chose to switch to eggtimer quantum and proton as I felt the design led to safer setups. Both from switch issues and electrical issues. They handle reverse polarity without...

Thanks for the info on this thread. I built mine over the weekend and was confused at the result in the dual battery configuration. I briefly considered adding a resistor between the two B+ pads, but decided to research first. Another option might be to test for voltage on the pyro circuit and...

Interesting, as when I launch with a functional Eggfinder, the rocket practically lands on my head. It's when I don't that I have to hunt for it. I'm beginning to think that Chris designed them that way. :D

You're making me want to run a plaque on the CNC and send it to you... :)

AT strikes me as being in a tough spot. They aren't small enough to have a one man shop run hardware anymore. But they probably aren't big enough to get a big shop to run them at a reasonable price. Setup time costs, and bigger shops are going to want large orders. Then there's anodizing and...

For vinyl, be careful with laser. The burning releases some toxic fumes. It would be fine for cardstock. I bet even my little 3W could handle that.

If the walls aren't too thin, my guess is that it's fine. However, I have no data to back that up. I think I would destructively test one to see how much force it can take.

Might be an interesting way to try this size.

Very cool for all the vendors taking part and anyone donating to the cause.

I've got a lathe and most of the supplies. It might be an interesting project. I suspect 5-10 a year is probably a reasonable guess. I seem to remember seeing measurements around here somewhere... Not sure if I would want to try 13mm though. That's some tiny stuff.. Would I run into any forum...

Sticking to the bed can be a problem with PETG depending on the type of bed. For PEI beds, I use glue stick to help it release. I've also started holding the bed temp at 45C until I remove the parts. Those seem to help removal. I've never had problems getting it to stick with PEI. It sticks a...

Yes, at 240C I have some filament that doesn't adhere well. Often times, even 5C can make the difference. But if your hot end can't do it, I guess that's an issue. I wasn't aware there were still printers being made with that limitation. You could try disabling the part cooling fan, that might...

With PETG, you can get really good layer adhesion, but you need to kick the temp up until you do. I have a little test part I always print when changing filaments. Takes about 10 minutes to print at my normal layer heights. Then I destructively test it to check for things like layer adhesion...

Check out the screws in the motor couplers and pulleys. It sounds like you are dropping steps causing the shift. It's also possible that you are getting something binding at some Z heights. That one would be more difficult to to troubleshoot, so hopefully it's just a loose set screw.