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Looking for a G12 fiberglass coupler for 5.5” airframes that is longer than 12”. Thanks!

It was a screenshot from my phone. I tape it to a stick and mount into the ground to act as a temporary pad camera.

2.6” rocket to 7588’ on a 54-1600 slammer blue clone

A flight from Saturday to 16,104’ on an M3800 (high metals and solids) in the Loki 76-8000 hardware.

pm sent

Looking for hardware in the 4.5” to 6” range (for EX motors) - Interested in anything >20,000 Ns, but preferably in the 20-30,000 Ns range - Preferably with closures, but also interested in just the casing - Please PM me with details

Check with Ken @ Performance Hobbies. He seems to have a 6” fg one in stock.

A heavy 4" rocket going on a L1200 to 10,000 feet. 0.1 CuO turned it pink. Photo by J. Craig Klimczak Onboard Video:

Our High School team's SLI full scale/payload demo lifting off on a CTI K650. Missed the target altitude by only 50 feet. Flown by the Harrison Ny Rocketry team:

Cast some propellant for my 6000 case

Kraken 4 CTI K650

4” x 11’ Two Stage going off on a K2050ST to a J415 Liftoff Vid:

M2150 to L1090 two stage flight on its way to 17,718’ from URRG August And here’s the video:

Also, ARR has some 4" blue tube kits with 54mm mounts at a good price. They go together nicely with some wood glue and build much like cardboard rockets. Blue tube is stronger than cardboard. A 4" blue tube rocket will survive any 54mm motor and should still be light enough to go on some H's.

Picked up a DG&A Armageddon kit a month ago. It’s 4” cardboard DD with a 54mm mount. Really nice kit with an interesting look. If you build it stock you’ll probably be able to get away with flying it on large H motors such as an H550 up to maybe a K700.

It is much stronger and more flexible. Lighter than 0.063" wall G12 by maybe a third. I've flown 4" canvas phenolic well past mach. Definitely do not need to glass the mac performance kits, no spirals to fill, and the parts fit great. Highly recommend.

I vote for the K1103. Outperformed the K1200 (in boosting a 4” two stage).

I have been over 17k five times and and only on 2 flights I think I saw it. All it takes is the slightest bit of haze. Here’s a view from 17,500.

I would mount the switches through the vent band to avoid having to align everything after I open the bay up. Otherwise the best thing to do would be to drill holes through the airframe (#2). No reason not to use a switchband, although you could skip it if you wanted. You can go a little under...

Probably, although it would depend on size and motor. My hyperloc 1600 has one layer and has flown on M’s. I would use glass because it’s less brittle, but the CF looks much nicer with some sanding and a clear coat.