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You can also use a thin large area washer and looks like from the picture that would put the threads flush with the end and that is the most strength your going to get. The rule about having 1and 1/2 threads exposed is only to make sure if using a lock nut the fastener is fully engaged in the...

I find that using larger size nomex blanket helps. I usually use 18” in a 4” rocket instead of 12” that is sometimes recommend and only wrap the chute in it. If you have nylon shock cord you can get a nomex sleeve for the part closest to the charge.

Well there are 2 or 3 others I’m looking at (5.5 pike,5 Terminator) and if I can’t wait and they come back in stock I can always use my 10% off coupon. Lol

Excellent! Thank you I am trying to see what I am going to buy on this falls Black Friday sales. lol

Any one have a working rocksim file for a Dominator 4? All the ones I find send me to the Proline 2012 website and the one they have there just comes up as script document and my rocksim program doesn’t recognize it. Granted I ‘m not very computer savvy so I might be missing something. Thanks

I am sure Mike at Madcow would swap a 75 mount he has done it for me on my AGM58 and Double Shot booster. You usually have to cut the fin tang down your self but that’s no big deal.

Few of the reasons I really like the pull pin switches 1. With pin and flag hanging out really hard to forget to arm on pad 2. Easy to disarm when recovering rocket 3. Pin small enough to insert through static hole even on 38mm rocket 4. Easy to use them in tandem with multiple altimeters 5...

Very nice I just ordered a bunch. Lol. Worth it just for the pins so I won’t poke myself in the butt with the pointy ones I made when I put them in my pocket. They look very good and the price is right. Thanks Gary

I really like the pull pin snap type switches. They fail safe to normally closed. I have used them for years in the aircraft industry for position indicating switches and don’t recall having any failures short of smashing one. They are small and can be used in tandem for redundant altimeters...

Anyone build and fly one of these as a cluster with motors in the outboard boosters?

Smores over 1000N’s of white lighting

Karl actually suggested I do it at the next launch I attend so I might wait and bring it to the Labor Day One and we can all watch

Update to the update. Karl from Aerotech is shipping me a new motor and wants me to burn the old one in the ground to see if it fails. Should be interesting. Lol. What great customer service from Aerotech! Gary

Just an update. I sent Karl pictures and he confirmed this motor is one that was wrapped incorrectly. Bad news is it looks like I need to make the long drive to NXRS to get it replaced or a refund.

In my case I don’t have any 54 hardware and thought that because I was only planning to fly a couple of big 54s this year it didn’t justify the $200 for the hardware. But I might have to rethink that. Lol. I did have a good flight with a K535 DMS motor but I think there were some...

Thanks. I just sent a message to Aerotech but sent to warranty because I could only find sales or warranty listed in their contacts so hopefully will get to the right person.

It looks like the code is 102386

Thanks I will do that as soon as it get it unpacked. I do get a little irritated trying to support the on site vendor and then you get old stock without any mention a possible issue. I guess I should have checked the date but I really don’t know how to decipher the code anyway.

How can you tell about the wrap angle?

I purchased a Aerotech L1000 DMS last month at FITS front the on site vendor . I don’t currently have it in front of me for the date code so don’t know when it was made. My question/concern is that when I opened it it doesn’t have a thrust ring but has instructions for friction fit using masking...