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About 10-12 years ago I bought the radio relays direct from Carymart. Most of the other parts were sourced locally then. For reasons that are unimportant now I never did more than buy the parts. Recently I was cleaning out my workshop and found the box of miscellaneous parts and the two cases...

Both finished and tested. I have a 12 volt lamp I use for testing. I think I'll Velcro it inside one of them for troubleshooting in the field. I left the fuse holders in for now since I had them on hand. If they prove troublesome I'll switch them for circuit breakers.

My son is a plumber and buys diamond hole saws off Amazon for that purpose. Get a water bottle and provide a steady stream right on the surface where the cutter is engaged or you'll ruin the bit and the piece. The brand he gets is called SHDIATOOL

Always surrounded by RETs. I am always downsizing chutes in kits. Cutting spill holes. Reefing lines. Fortunately the place I fly usually has high grass and the soil is never really dry and hard. I can afford a higher decent rate. I also build a little heavy knowing that's the local condition...

I believe his main interest going forward fill be high res video and photography. Budget is likely ~$200 for this gift. I'm thinking that the learning curve means that its better to start modestly. He is a climber, skier and cyclist so he will be outdoors much of the time.

My adult son is a graduate student. He has indicated an interest in drones, but does not have time to research how to logically get started. I have zero knowledge on the subject. I'd like to send him a gift at Easter. What should a complete rookie get to start in the hobby? Something to learn...

I have had mixed results getting a chute to deploy from inside the NC. Even tying the shrouds off closer to the tube didn't work out all the time. Maybe just poor luck. I'll be interested to see if this model has an issue.

I am hesitant to change it in any way unless it would really extend the range. It came precisely coiled and shaped, not just wound up in a bundle. Thanks for saving me some trouble. As I only intend to use this for up to G engines, the distance is adequate as is.

The range is shorter than I expected at about 110 feet. After buttoning it up and testing I realized that I did not uncoil the antenna wire on the relay. Does anyone have experience with these type relays? Will stretching out the antenna wire make a difference? The good news is that a 10 year...

The relay is under the black box. I believe he very first image in the second post shows it uncovered beside the battery before the wires went in. I covered it to protect against a short should a wire come loose eventually. The relay is activated by a small radio controller. Since there are an...

I have to build the ignitor cable and will test with an ignitor tomorrow.

They beefed up the circuit for the relay. I think it likely would handle 30 amps but I have fused the system at 20 amps.

Wago connectors were used to form positive and negative busses. They are rated at 32 amps. If you've never used them they are very handy. They will connect any wires from 12 to 28 gauge using levers that can be opened and closed repeatedly. Think of a universal wire nut for the 21st century...

The battery meter monitors temperature with a contact probe which is taped to the battery. It has a power switch of its own. I connected it directly to the battery so I can check the charge without arming the box.

I have two Seahorse 300 cases, similar to Pelican cases. 10.8x9.9x4.9. One orange and one yellow. I acquired panel plates for them somewhere along the line. I put in plexiglass floor plate on standoffs. Added a 3S lipo and a remote relay rated at 30 amps. I added a fuse holder, toggle switch...

I have had parts and vague plans around for years. I decided to get started with this diagram:

My wife tried to tell me that when we got the fridge. I wasn't buying that.

Working on a radio relay. Test fit components on the plate. Relay and battery on a plexiglass boards with 1/4 inch standoffs above the bottom of the case.

Actually I kept the CA in the kitchen fridge for many years in that mysterious compartment on the right side door that had a clear hinged cover. I figured that was why they put it there.

I made clip whips for clusters. One with two leads and another with three. A pair of single clips on one end branching into two or three separate pairs. Clip the single onto the regular controller clips and have a dedicated pair of clips for each ignitor. Never had a need for more then three...