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Gregory Roberts

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A construction related question

I am using titebond wood glue on my projects and am getting to the point where I am trying to get glue into a small space at a distance. Does anyone know if there is an attachment I can get (sort of like a gooseneck adapter) that I can screw onto the top of the bottle for working inside tubes. For most things the current applicator is fine, but now I need to put glue inside tubes 6 - 8 inches from the end and after I've started to install items like motor mounts.

Any help would be appreciated.

thanks
 
I use the Wooden Skewer Sticks that you get at the Grocery Store for making Shish Kebabs.
 
My favorite tool for things like that is a wooden cuticle stick. They are small round dowels with flat blades on each end. I get my wife to pick them up at the beauty supply store. They are very handy for applying glue, mixing epoxy, scraping things, and, maybe, working on your cuticles.

But ... almost any long thin thing will work. I often use a piece of balsa broken from a sheet of die or laser-cut fins.

-- Roger
 
Last edited:
jadebox said:
But ... almost any long thin thing will work. I often use a piece of balsa broken from the a sheet of die or laser-cut fins.
Click to expand...
Me, too. I deliberately break off any long thin pieces and drop them into my toolbox for later use.
 
Get a kid's medicine dropper syringe from the drugstore... you can then draw up the glue inside the syringe and apply it in tight spaces...

If you want a really precision tip, buy a package of "Testor's Glue Tips" from Hobby Lobby or whatever local hobby/crafts store or hobby shop you have nearby. These tips will pop right onto the tip of the syringe and make an excellent small bead or precision spot applicator.

There's some applicators in this thread that are disposable... https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?50405-Weird-Tools&highlight=Testors+Glue+Tips

You can see the syringe and glue tip in post #31 of this thread here... https://www.rocketryforum.com/showt...-Rockets-EFT-1-beta-build&p=264182#post264182

Later! OL JR :)
 
Bamboo skewers. Dowels. Popscicle sticks. My favorite, strips of balsa cut off the scrap from the build.

As others have mentioned, there are disposable applicators available on Amazon or other places, but I've found those best for applying fillets to centering rings.

If you use the scraps of balsa that are left over from the fins, you can be "green" and re-use/recycle, and it saves money for more kits!
 
I use Pasteur pipettes. Someone gave me a box a long time ago. You should be able to find them in glass or plastic.

pipe2.jpgpipe1.jpg
 
I usually tape a cotton bud onto a bamboo skewer or piece of scrap balsa. The cotton bud soaks up glue and acts a bit like a paintbrush. Also if you need a circle of glue inside a tube thats say 8" from the tube end I mark the bamboo skewer at the correct depth. That way I can make sure the ring of glue is square to the tube so that nothing gets missed and no glue is left above the line that doesnt need to be there.
 
I use the end of an old modelers paint brush...the bristles are long since shot on it but the wooden handle or what ever you would call it is just the right length to get inside the body tube for fillets
 
Yep, I use bamboo skewers with a Q-tip taped to it. The cotton Q-tip heads holds a little glue and lets you really paint it on quite well.
 
I buy Q-tips that are on 6 inch wooden sticks. I didn't find them on the shelves at CVS but asked the pharmacist and he ordered them for me. They are 100 in a bag and 10 bags in the box. I have had the box for at least 5 years and haven't used half of the bags yet.

When I'm done with the Q-tip, I cut off the heads and have a nice supply of small wooden dowels.

I have glued a few of the dowels to unused Q-tips so I have extra long Q-tips when I need them.
 
WARNING: Bad technique to follow, not suitable for high end precision builders. Sometimes when I am gluing mid mounted canted motors and using very runny Titebond II or III glue, I just hold the tube under the basement ceiling can light at an angle where I can see where I want to glue. I use the other hand to position the bottle and gently dribble a small stream of glue where I want it to go. It really isn't that hard and depending on the application you can use gravity to run a blob around the top of a centering ring or a canted motor mount, putting a healthy amount of glue in a hard to reach place. Use the good techniques mentioned above to clean up any mess if necessary. Wood glue really shrinks and is nice and light when dry, so you can use more than you would first think to make a nice, big and strong internal fillet. Can take a long time to dry so you must have the patience of a Saint or just enjoy watching paint and glue dry. Again, this is not a technique for everyone or every application. You may want to seek advice from your Doctor or other professional before attempting it.
 
Another vote for the bamboo skewer. Have an over-abundance of them as the wife and I both picked some up for a party. Use them to apply glue, then use them again as garden markers or kindling.
 
Daddyisabar said:
WARNING: Bad technique to follow, not suitable for high end precision builders. Sometimes when I am gluing mid mounted canted motors and using very runny Titebond II or III glue, I just hold the tube under the basement ceiling can light at an angle where I can see where I want to glue. I use the other hand to position the bottle and gently dribble a small stream of glue where I want it to go. It really isn't that hard and depending on the application you can use gravity to run a blob around the top of a centering ring or a canted motor mount, putting a healthy amount of glue in a hard to reach place. Use the good techniques mentioned above to clean up any mess if necessary. Wood glue really shrinks and is nice and light when dry, so you can use more than you would first think to make a nice, big and strong internal fillet. Can take a long time to dry so you must have the patience of a Saint or just enjoy watching paint and glue dry. Again, this is not a technique for everyone or every application. You may want to seek advice from your Doctor or other professional before attempting it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've done that too... messy but it works. Especially good where you want "extra thick" protection from heat/blast on the upper centering ring and a strong joint with a thick fillet.

Word of warning-- yellow glue shrinks substantially as it dries. Doing this will tend to "suck in" the body tube around/above the centering ring, leaving an unsightly ring visible on the outside of the rocket even when finished, unless you fill and sand it out. White glue shrinks substantially less than yellow glue and is a better choice in this particular method/application. But, be warned, even white glue in a thick/heavy enough application WILL shrink some, and can cause this "coke bottle effect"-- it's just a lot less likely or less severe than with wood glue.

Later! OL JR :)
 
I have started using epoxy for stuff like motor mount installations, especially with Semroc tubes that seem to coke bottle more than Estes tubes.
 
Steve Fitton said:
I have started using epoxy for stuff like motor mount installations, especially with Semroc tubes that seem to coke bottle more than Estes tubes.
Click to expand...

This. Also hels the builder overcome any fear of building with epoxy. Mid/high power gateway drug. :D

via Forumrunner/GS4
 

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