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iter

iter

HPR Glider Driver
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I notice that my own steel launch rods rust very quickly. I also notice that the club's rods have almost no rust.

I wonder if this has to do with how much use club rods get and consequently how much people clean them, or if there's something I can do to keep rust off my equipment.

Ari.
 
iter said:
I notice that my own steel launch rods rust very quickly. I also notice that the club's rods have almost no rust.

I wonder if this has to do with how much use club rods get and consequently how much people clean them, or if there's something I can do to keep rust off my equipment.

Ari.
Click to expand...

I believe it has to do with the quality of the rod. Some are coated - galvanized maybe? I donno. Same thing happened with our club when I asked a member to grab 3 or 4 more 1/4" rods from the local hardware store and they rusted almost instantly. I too am interested in what finish to look for so we don't repeat that mistake.
 
Get stainless.

When done, wipe down with WD40
 
Never go to a launch without steel wool puff in your range box. Needed it more often than I can remember.
 
JAL3 said:
Get stainless.

When done, wipe down with WD40
Click to expand...

Or Ballistol! Best thing about Ballistol is that it will STOP the residue from Black Powder and most AP based motors from 'hard' coating the rail, wipe and its gone. Ballistol is the cleaner and lubricator of choice for Black Powder firearm enthusiasts!
 
For my low power rod, I use piano wire from the hobby store. I give it a rub down with sand paper and a spray with WD40 then wipe off any excess with a bit of paper towel.

I do this both before and after I fly.

It doesn't eliminate the rust completely, but keeps it managable and doesn't affect launches :)

When this rod eventually gets too horrible to clean (or I just get plain sick of doing it!) I will swap it out for a stainless rod.

Krusty
 
Salvage-1 said:
Or Ballistol! Best thing about Ballistol is that it will STOP the residue from Black Powder and most AP based motors from 'hard' coating the rail, wipe and its gone. Ballistol is the cleaner and lubricator of choice for Black Powder firearm enthusiasts!
Click to expand...

I have a 38mm aft closure that I bought used a while back that's in dire need of dissolving/cleaning the black hard coating from AP exhaust. Do you think Ballistol will take care of that? An overnight soak in Breakfree CLP helped some but there is still a lot more that needs to go.
 
The rod that I most try to keep the rust off of is 3/8" from the hardware sore.

Vulcan flies off it.

Ari.
 
If you want a good rust-resistant material, pick 316 stainless steel (as opposed to 304 stainless steel).

But you can use 304 stainless or even regular carbon steel. Just clean them off with some of the suggested cleaners (gun cleaners tend to work well), and if left with a bit of oil on them will help to prevent corrosion. Then wipe off the oil before launch.

Greg
 
I wonder about the kind of paint sticks well enough for this application and can withstand the heat.

Ari.
 
I sprayed my 1/4" rail with yellow spray paint and then a clear coat, wipe it with lithium grease before each flight it looks awesome and always is slick!
 
iter said:
I notice that my own steel launch rods rust very quickly. I also notice that the club's rods have almost no rust.

I wonder if this has to do with how much use club rods get and consequently how much people clean them, or if there's something I can do to keep rust off my equipment.

Ari.
Click to expand...

Yep... go to a local "Fastenal" store and get yourself some stainless steel rods... They're cheap and readily available...

Forget the indoor lumberyard stores-- all they have is mild steel rods, which due to the heat and exhaust byproducts in close proximity to the rod, which is highly corrosive, rust like crazy between launches. If you're just 100% dead-set against Stainless Steel launch rods and want to keep fighting the rust on mild steel rods, things that will help include 1) getting some 3/4 inch PVC fittings and pipe to make a screw-together rod carrier, which will help seal them off from the air between launches, and allow you to store the rods and carry them. 2) Soak the rods down with a liberal coat of WD-40 after the launch, wipe them down thoroughly to get rid of as much "motor funk" as possible, and then oil them up or wax the rods to help seal them off from the air-- WD-40 alone will NOT seal them off from the air and prevent oxidation-- it's too thin and easily evaporates... 3) use car wax to "seal" the rods off from the air between flying sessions. You'll still probably have to clean SOME rust off with steel wool or sandpaper before you launch, but the wax should help considerably.

Stainless steel is just SO much faster and easier, and eliminates the problem...

No more rust...

Later! OL JR :)
 
Greg Please stop inferring 304 stainless is no good for launch rods. In normal use 304 Stainless is a fine Rust-resistant material. 316 is a bit better but 304 works just fine for launch rods and is about 1/2 the cost.
Our club has been using 304 alloy Stainless steel rods since the mid 1980's without any rust issue what so ever. I'm personally still using the same 304 series 1/8", 3/16" 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Stainless launch rods I purchases in the early 80's. zero rust in storage or use. We're in the VA/DC/MD high humidity climate so the proof is in the using. 304 is the right choice for standard 36" and 72" launch rods. After use a simple wipe down with a paper towel & fantastic cleaner followed by a light wipe with WD-40 keep them fresh and bright as new. 316 is a little stiffer but NOT worth the extra money.
 
Micromeister said:
Greg Please stop inferring 304 stainless is no good for launch rods. In normal use 304 Stainless is a fine Rust-resistant material. 316 is a bit better but 304 works just fine for launch rods and is about 1/2 the cost.
Our club has been using 304 alloy Stainless steel rods since the mid 1980's without any rust issue what so ever. I'm personally still using the same 304 series 1/8", 3/16" 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" Stainless launch rods I purchases in the early 80's. zero rust in storage or use. We're in the VA/DC/MD high humidity climate so the proof is in the using. 304 is the right choice for standard 36" and 72" launch rods. After use a simple wipe down with a paper towel & fantastic cleaner followed by a light wipe with WD-40 keep them fresh and bright as new. 316 is a little stiffer but NOT worth the extra money.
Click to expand...

Ok. Fair enough. If that is the impression I gave then let me say that 304 SS is ok.

But in my defense, I don't think I said that 304 is "no good", but that 316 is better. From McMaster:

With its higher molybdenum content, Type 316 stainless steel has better corrosion resistance than Type 304 so it is often used in applications such as chemical processing. Type 316 is a low carbon chromium-nickel (austenitic) stainless steel with good weldability and temperature resistance. It maintains corrosion resistance up to 800° F and may become slightly magnetic when worked. Not heat treatable.
Click to expand...

Those who do not traffic in metals (my job makes me aware of them, sometimes we use 304 and other times 316) may think that the term "stainless steel" is monolithic, but it's not. Also, I think that I said you could work with regular carbon steel, if you do some treating.

As for price, the cost of 316 SS is more, but it may not be twice as much. This is McMaster data from today for 1/4" rod at 6 foot lengths:

304 SS 89535K21 : $9.43
316 SS 89325K21 : $13.48

Ultimately, it is up to the prospective buyer (or club) to determine if the cost differential between the grades of steel is worth the additional corrosion resistance.

Hopefully this clarifies things a bit.

Cheers.

Greg
 
In 3/8" diameter (which is what Vulcan needs) the difference is only $17.02 vs. $19.70.

Thank you for the links.

Ari.
 
o1d_dude said:
I have a 38mm aft closure that I bought used a while back that's in dire need of dissolving/cleaning the black hard coating from AP exhaust. Do you think Ballistol will take care of that? An overnight soak in Breakfree CLP helped some but there is still a lot more that needs to go.
Click to expand...

Breakfree CLP is, i believe, the stuff that the US Military uses for cleaning, freeing, etc. Ballistol is very much like it, but not, you have to go check out ballistols website for the lowdown.

Yes, I do believe that soaking the closure in Ballistol, or even spraying it thoroughly and wrapping it in a soaked rag overnight. I have been amazed with it. I had the cylinder of a black powder revolver (Colt Dragoon clone) seize on me. None on the penetrating oils worked. I got it freed with something called "Ed's Red" (Google it) and then cleaned all the residue from the powder off with Ballistol.
 
I blue mine with birchwood casey gun blue. Then spray them with G96 gun oil. G96 has a sweet citrus smell to it. I also keep the rods in a capped 1 1/2" PVC tube that has the inside sprayed with G96. Never have had a problem with rust.
 
I have just used steel wool and WD-40 or LPS #2. Seems to work ok. No matter what kind of rod you use, you will have to keep the propellant residue cleaned off of it. I store my rods in a length of 1/2" PVC pipe with end caps.
 
I also store my rods in PVC pipe with caps.

They're stainless steel from the local Fastenal shop.

Sent from my Kindle Fire using Forum Runner
 
Easiest way to prevent Rusty Launch rods is to purchase 304 or 316 Stainless Steel rods in the first place. The clean up with a minor squirt of Fantastic cleaner on a paper towel and remain well lubricated with a quick wipe with WD-40.
I'm Still using the same Rods I purchased in the very early 80's. I little more expensive the Steel but a Great deal easier to maintain and use.
 

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