Built This Pad Today Out Of Stuff Lying Around In The Shed.

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TopRamen

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I'll use this for the small stuff. I made it from stuff I had lying around in my Shed. The Table/Plate, is from a Cheap Harbor Frieght Sander that broke. I save Broken Tools and Repurpose them when I find a use. I just need to go get the stuff at the Hardware store to make a Rod and Rod Mount for it, plus clean it up a little and Paint it. I like it.:







Cost so far? 20 Minutes of my Time.:)
 
Where the Metal meets the Wood, I will be replacing this Set Screw with a Bolt and Washer. I will be modifying this Angle Bracket to accept said Bolt/Washer. This way, although the fit of the Stud into the Wood is secure, I can super secure it to the Base, and remove it if necessary to remount to a different Base Pad or set of Legs. Hardware Store, here I come. The Bonus is that I used to be the Sporting Goods Department Manager there, and I still get my Employee Discount. The Agro Bins are a good place to get all these goodies for a minimal investment.

 
Did'nt take but a few Minutes to fit the Bracket to align properly.:



Vise, Chainsaw File, Hacksaw.
 
NICE!!!

I hoard junk myself, you never know when it will come in handy.
 
Oh, and here is how the Attachment Bracket came out. It was 8x1.25 Metric for the Bolt. Don't take my word for it, as I did not confirm it, but I handed my Friend Clay at the Store the Set Screw, and he mumbled a bit and used his Gauge to match it up.:

 
Indeed. I wish I knew just how to repurpose the barn full of junk... er... treasure I have accumulated.

Nice pad BTW TopRamen

Thanks. You need to first have the Junk, then you can have the Ideas of how to use/re-purpose it. As long as you have the Junk, you'll come up with something eventually. And yes, it is actually Treasure. Beauty is in the Eye of the Junk Collector.
 
The only bad thing about it, is that for Safety reasons, I have to remove the one peice Rod always. I have two Squares of Duct Tape on either end of the Rod when it is not in the Pad. Hate to poke my Eye out. When I get a suitable Rod Cap, I'll just leave the Rod in the Base.
 
I must have built 50 different launch pads and controllers over the past 4 decades, most of them worked well. I have used everything from lawn mower wheels to office chair bases for launch pads, and they all worked fairly well. A couple of years ago I came up with what I consider my best design yet, and so far it has worked fine. It is mostly made out of Home Depot parts, the pad itself is PVC. I use a drill chuck for a rod holder, and it will work with anything from a 1/8" to a 1/4" rod. The pad can be taken apart and packed in a fairly small space. While I think it is plenty big for any rocket you do not need to be certified for, it can be made a LOT heavier by filling it with water, sand, lead shot, whatever. I carry my launch rods in a 1/2" PVC tube with press on end caps. I'll post a picture tomorrow, it's dark here tonight.
 
I must have built 50 different launch pads and controllers over the past 4 decades, most of them worked well. I have used everything from lawn mower wheels to office chair bases for launch pads, and they all worked fairly well. A couple of years ago I came up with what I consider my best design yet, and so far it has worked fine. It is mostly made out of Home Depot parts, the pad itself is PVC. I use a drill chuck for a rod holder, and it will work with anything from a 1/8" to a 1/4" rod. The pad can be taken apart and packed in a fairly small space. While I think it is plenty big for any rocket you do not need to be certified for, it can be made a LOT heavier by filling it with water, sand, lead shot, whatever. I carry my launch rods in a 1/2" PVC tube with press on end caps. I'll post a picture tomorrow, it's dark here tonight.

Sounds good, I had'nt considered using a PVC Case to store Rods, but that is a great Idea. Looking forward to Pics'.
 
Here are some pictures. Sorry about the quality, they were taken with a cell phone camera. Batteries were dead in my real camera.















Pad is built out of four equal length sections of 1 1/2" PVC pipe, 4 end caps, and a cross piece in the center. It can all be taken apart. I drilled a 3/8" hole right in the center of the cross piece, and installed a 3/8"x 24 threaded stud, with a nut and washer on both the inside and outside. I then put a CB antenna mount plastic insulator in the hole in the middle of the blast deflector, slipped it down over the stud, and used another nut to hold it in place. The drill chuck came off one of those hand crank drills, and screws right down on the 3/8" stud. You just stick the launch rod, any size from 1/8" to 1/4" into the drill chuck and tighten it down by hand. Notice I attached a thumbscrew clamp to the blast deflector to hold the wires in place, so they don't wind up pulling the igniter out of the engine. This pad has proven to be tough and easy to use and transport, it would be easy to repair if damaged, and cheap to make another one if it were destroyed. It's not much for looks, but it could probably be painted if you wanted.

The launch control system is built out of a cast aluminum commercial electric switch box, fittings, and a plastic top cover from Home Depot. The launch button is a cheap Radio Shack momentary pus button switch. I have had a couple of these fail, and carry a couple of extras with leads already soldered on so they can be replaced in the field if necessary. Eventually I will get around to finding a better button. I used a 4' piece of regular extension cord with battery charger clips on one end to supply power from a small 12V sealed AGM battery to the box. The cable from the controller to the pad is made of two 25' sections of 1/4" audio cable plugged together in the middle. This goes into a small plastic box from Radio Shack, and the igniter leads come out the other side. This gives me a 50' distance from the controller to the pad, so I can get a better view of the launch. A safety key/light is not needed, because the battery clips are not connected until I am 50' away from the rocket and all is clear.

Both 1/8" and 3/16" launch rods are kept in the capped 1/2" PVC tube.

The launch controller, all the cables, and the battery fit into the black camera bag. I keep the battery connected to a tender to keep it charged. They last about 5 years.

Everything else, engines, igniters, glue, knife, tape, extra parachutes, recovery wadding, and a number of other things fit in the red box. I also carry a small 50x handheld telescope with me to the launch site.

On average, I was spending about $100 a month on model rocketry. I have a special table for building rockets, and a CAD program to help design them. I have collected a huge number of modeling tools and supplies over the years.

Now if I can just find another launch site......
 
Here are some pictures. Sorry about the quality, they were taken with a cell phone camera. Batteries were dead in my real camera.















Pad is built out of four equal length sections of 1 1/2" PVC pipe, 4 end caps, and a cross piece in the center. It can all be taken apart. I drilled a 3/8" hole right in the center of the cross piece, and installed a 3/8"x 24 threaded stud, with a nut and washer on both the inside and outside. I then put a CB antenna mount plastic insulator in the hole in the middle of the blast deflector, slipped it down over the stud, and used another nut to hold it in place. The drill chuck came off one of those hand crank drills, and screws right down on the 3/8" stud. You just stick the launch rod, any size from 1/8" to 1/4" into the drill chuck and tighten it down by hand. Notice I attached a thumbscrew clamp to the blast deflector to hold the wires in place, so they don't wind up pulling the igniter out of the engine. This pad has proven to be tough and easy to use and transport, it would be easy to repair if damaged, and cheap to make another one if it were destroyed. It's not much for looks, but it could probably be painted if you wanted.

The launch control system is built out of a cast aluminum commercial electric switch box, fittings, and a plastic top cover from Home Depot. The launch button is a cheap Radio Shack momentary pus button switch. I have had a couple of these fail, and carry a couple of extras with leads already soldered on so they can be replaced in the field if necessary. Eventually I will get around to finding a better button. I used a 4' piece of regular extension cord with battery charger clips on one end to supply power from a small 12V sealed AGM battery to the box. The cable from the controller to the pad is made of two 25' sections of 1/4" audio cable plugged together in the middle. This goes into a small plastic box from Radio Shack, and the igniter leads come out the other side. This gives me a 50' distance from the controller to the pad, so I can get a better view of the launch. A safety key/light is not needed, because the battery clips are not connected until I am 50' away from the rocket and all is clear.

Both 1/8" and 3/16" launch rods are kept in the capped 1/2" PVC tube.

The launch controller, all the cables, and the battery fit into the black camera bag. I keep the battery connected to a tender to keep it charged. They last about 5 years.

Everything else, engines, igniters, glue, knife, tape, extra parachutes, recovery wadding, and a number of other things fit in the red box. I also carry a small 50x handheld telescope with me to the launch site.

On average, I was spending about $100 a month on model rocketry. I have a special table for building rockets, and a CAD program to help design them. I have collected a huge number of modeling tools and supplies over the years.

Now if I can just find another launch site......

Very Cool set-up! Thanks for sharing the Details too. Good luck to the "Finding a new Launch Site" part.
 
First use of said Pad.

[video=youtube;fAQD75J4VUQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAQD75J4VUQ[/video]
 
Last edited:
TopRamen's a great idea starting position, I liked that you can adjust the angle of the rocket launch!
 
[video=youtube;qJ88rbRyRus]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJ88rbRyRus[/video]
 
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