I need lawnmower HALP!

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Green Jello

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There are many things I'm good at, but small engine repair is not one of them. The lawn mower (7.0 HP Briggs and Stratton motor) worked just fine when it was done for the season last fall. Now it won't start. Any idea on what to do first?

Thanks.
 
You have gas in it, and it is the RIGHT gas, right?

Just the first thing I thought of.
 
Did you drain the gas last year? Old / bad gas is the number one problem.

Mike
 
Well unfortanatly the alky in the gas these days will TOTALLY evaporate out of your mowers gas tank in less then 60 days . Once this happens a nasty varnish builds up inside your jet(s) . You are going to need a carb clean / rebuild , and a new plug while your at it .

Eric
 
He's right on with that diagnosis. We see it all the time in our shop. You can try a bit of Seafoam fuel treatment to see if that will clean the tank, then fill with new gas. Put a little of the Seafoam in with the new gas (should have a ratio suggestion on the can). (Try to)Run the mower with that tank of mixed gas. If that works, you should be good the rest of the summer. This fall when you put the mower away, put a fuel treatment product in the tank. Leaving the tank empty is not a good idea. Things dry up and get crusty. It's better to just dump the treated tank next spring. I know this sounds bad, but it's better for the mower. Also, keep the tank full. Less room for condensation to occur and create rust in the tank. As usual, YMMV.
Why yes, I am a professional mechanic. Why no, I never work on mowers unless I have to. I'm allergic to the grass and most of the weed pollens. Makes for a fun summer. Later!

Adrian
 
There are many things I'm good at, but small engine repair is not one of them. The lawn mower (7.0 HP Briggs and Stratton motor) worked just fine when it was done for the season last fall. Now it won't start. Any idea on what to do first?

Thanks.

If none of the already mentioned remedies work for you and you are certain you'll need a new mower, I've always had pretty good luck buying one from a lawnmower repair shop.
 
Search out a station that doesn't have the blended fuel. Alcohol eats aluminum causeing untold damage to your parts. I'm about to pickup a gallon of Phillips 66 gas, one of the only places here you can find un-blended gas. The ethanol lobby is strong here so they have a place to sell their potatos and sugar beets.
 
I had the same problem with my old mower which had a Briggs & Stratton engine. You could pull on it until you dislocated your shoulder. Starting fluid sprayed in the carb may help to get it fired up. If it runs and dies soon after replace the diaphragm. Take your air filter off. Unscrew the carb (usually 2 screws holding it on) any you will see a small rubber/ cardboard gasket. That is the diaphragm. Replace that and you will have one start pulls. No joke. I had to do that every spring until the mower deck rusted out. It's an easy and cheap fix.
 
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Ok.....I emptied the tank and replaced the gas with fresh stuff. Then after 900 pulls on the ol' cord she finally fired up. Then it just ran for 2 solid hours quite nicely. I'll check out the sea foam stuff and take better care of it at the end of the season. Thanks all!
 
Ok.....I emptied the tank and replaced the gas with fresh stuff. Then after 900 pulls on the ol' cord she finally fired up. Then it just ran for 2 solid hours quite nicely. I'll check out the sea foam stuff and take better care of it at the end of the season. Thanks all!

you have to be very careful with seafoam... it can pop the motor... there are directions on the bottle... but when used properly it works wonders... i use it in my cars to clean them out too...
 
I would have checked the plug wire first then the plug followed by new gas. When i go to start a motor that has sat for a long time i also add alot of fuel to the carb either by pumping the primer or pouring actual gas in to he carb(watch out for backfires though). Using Stabil fuel treatment is never a bad idea if you know the motor will be sitting for a prolonged period of time. My old Johnson 8hp outboard started after 6 years on old gas/oil as well as mowers and blowers with these methods.

I did work at an indoor karting center as a mechanic for a few years when i was younger and i did notice people making an issue out of starting the 9hp Hondas. Place your foot on the mower deck, pull the cord until the clutch is engaged and you can feel the compression stroke then give it a good short pull. You would think people putting their whole weight into it would get better results but this isn't the case. Its also hard on the starter clutch. After 2-3 pulls if it doesn't start their is an issue with the engine or you lol. I bet a little starting fluid or straight gas would have reduced that 900 down to about 2-3 pulls haha.
 
.. Then after 900 pulls on the ol' cord she finally fired up....
Hmmm.. take a look at the engine, if its a cord pull, quite a few have what looks like a small silicone bulb somewhere near the carb. If yours has one, press it a few times to fill it with fuel. This primes the system and you should only need a few pulls to start it.

Glad you got it working.. I need to get my lazyman sit on lawn tractor in for repair. I forgot to clean the underside last year, went to start it today and burnt out the starter motor!! Not quite as easy a fix as yours!!
 
Two things...

MODERN GAS SUCKS... the ethanol blended gasoline is absolute SH!T in small engines... I had a problem with my Stihl chainsaw (rubber pickup tube in the tank for the "clunk" was rotted out and sucking air) and the Stihl repair guy sold me the part and even installed it for me right on the counter, and told me to ALWAYS use at LEAST the mid-grade gasoline... NEVER use the "cheap 87 octane crap" because it's LOADED with alcohol. The alcohol will dry out and eat the rubber gaskets, tubing, and o-rings in the fuel system and carbuerator...

At the end of the season, dump any remaining fuel out. Run it dry.

One thing I've learned is, USE STA-BIL or some other gasoline "stabilizing" agent added to the gas. It works wonders preventing the gas from turning to crap and gumming up the fuel system, eating up the o-rings and rubber parts, etc... alcohol is hygroscopic, meaning it draws moisture from the air into the fuel, and moisture causes corrosion. Gas goes stale and doesn't ignite worth a darn in an engine. Sta-Bil or other fuel stabilizers help to prevent these problems, but basically you don't want to leave fuel sitting in the tank and carbuerator over long periods even with the stuff in there... although it's CERTAINLY better than leaving fuel in there WITHOUT IT!

I run stuff with Sta-bil and then dump whatever fuel remains in the tank at the end of the season, and run the engine til it dies, drawing virtually all the remaining gas out of the system... then put it up for the season...

Good luck! OL JR :)
 
Here is an easy fix, go buy a new mower!:rofl:

Yep, and toss the old one over the backyard fence onto the pipeline right-of-way, right?? LOL:)

When I worked for United Gas Pipeline running a tractor mowing rights-of-way, we'd be running through neighborhoods in Katy, TX... they'd build homes right up to the ROW boundaries, and put the backyard board fences right on the line... the pipelines had been laid across former rice fields that the neighborhoods were now built upon, and the weeds would get pretty high... mowing those ROW's would be pretty interesting some times... Not only would be jumping old ricefield levees, but every once in awhile something "interesting" would go through the shredder... I was running a Ford 4610 with a six foot Bush Hog shredder on the back... One day I was cutting along some fences and suddenly there was a CLANGITY-CLANGITY-CLANGITY- CLANG CLANG!!! and I looked back to see a mangled, shredded up push mower come rolling out from under the deck of the shredder along with the weed clippings... Guess it quit on somebody and they just tossed it over the fence... One time my tractor rared up like it was going to run up on two wheels to one side or the other... just as suddenly it dropped down... then BOOM-BOOM-BOOM!!!! and shrapnel starts flying EVERYWHERE... luckily the little tractor had a cage between me and the mower, because bits of rocks and debris were flying around like bees... after it settles down a bit, I look back-- evidently when the crew built the house, they dumped a big pile of construction debris, old lumber scraps, and a pile of busted-up bricks right over the backyard fence onto the right of way rather than haul it off... I couldn't see it in the weeds until I went over it and it went under the mower...

What a mess...

Later! OL JR :)
 
I searched and could not find the vid of the Conehead sucking the spark plug clean, but you get the idea
 
You can buy small cans of non-ethanol gas in stores but it's pricey.
I would mix it in with 4 gallons of regular gas.

I rather keep some gas in the lawn mower than drain it.
After 20 days of sitting the Ethanol and gas will separate.
Ethanol does a number on boat engines as well.
So much so, that the boat industry sued and won in court case over it.


JD
 
There is a more insidious issue with oxiginated gasoline. Alcohols dissolve water.

When you lawn mower, snowblower, outboard, auto, or any gasoline powered engine with an unsealed fuel tank vent sits around for long periods of time, the higher day time temperature difference pushes gas vapors out of the tank during the day and the cooler night time temperature creates a vaccum that sucks moisture laden air into the tank at night. The co-solubility of water in an alcohol-gasoline mixture is limited, and eventually a puddle of liquid water will develop on the bottom of the gas tank. When you go to start the lawn mower, the water at the bottom of the gas tank flows thru the gas line into the carburetor bowl, eventually filling it. This is a real problem since gasoline motors won't run on water. The only fix is to drop the carburetor bowl and drain it, and drain the fuel tank to remove any more water in the fuel system.

Bob
 
I was at the Sears parts store and struck up a conversation with some Lawn Care gents. They say the answer is ALWAYS use premium in your small engines.

I buy 25 gallons, stored in 5 numbered 5gal cans, for the genny at the beginning of hurricane season. I use the gas in the mower, cycling through the cans and refilling as I go. In the fall, I put it in the minivan to drain the cans & start fresh the next year. Haven't had a problem since I started this system 5 years ago.
 
As mentioned in several other posts, FUEL is the biggest problem. I am in charge of all equipment maintenance for US Lawns of Lakeland, a complete property maintenance company, so I'm maintaining every thing from two cycle trimmers, edgers, blowers, weed eaters, chain saws to ride on spreaders, Dixie Choppers, Ex Mark, Scagg's Lesco and just about every type of truck. The biggest problem with *ALL* of these is the effect of the ethanol fuel.

The symptoms...hard starting, rough running, stalling, low power, bogging at WOT, especially on the two cycle. It all comes back to the fuel, emptying the tank and running the engine until the fuel is gone is the best protection.

One thing you have to keep in mind, the fuel we get from the gas stations is not fresh, when it is shipped it usually spends, some times, two to three months in storage tanks before ever being shipped to the stations. The other thing is, when you pump gas the first five to ten seconds of pumping, you're getting what the last person pumped, if it was the 93, more power to you, but in most cases, now days, it's most likely going to be the 87 or 89, plus the time the fuel spends in the can during storage. I have seen the cylinder broken completely off the block on two cycle equipment due to bad gas causing detonation just trying to start the engine. This stuff causes the the fuel feed and return lines to become hard and brittle, it also causes the diaphragm to become stiff and unpliable, I rebuild carbs on a regular bases.

On mowers, after sitting, drain and replace fuel, clean plug and air filter and oil changes are crucial, over time fuel blow by will cause the oil to become as thin as water, crank case pressure will cause it to blow by the piston rings and building up in the combustion chamber, which causes hard starting and can build to the point where it will seem like the engine is seized up, the best remedy for this is to pull the plug and turn over the engine several time, in extreme cases the fuel oil mixture will spurt out like a fountain, drain and replace oil.

Another thing that happens is the contact points between the ignition coil and the magnets on the fly wheel become rusty causing poor contact, a little light sanding with 200 grit paper will fix this problem. In actuality the fuel, carburation and ignition systems on mowers and two cycle equipment are the same as what was used fourty years ago, simple, reliable and it works. Hard starting is always a simple problem, fuel and spark.
 
On mowers, after sitting, drain and replace fuel, clean plug and air filter and oil changes are crucial, over time fuel blow by will cause the oil to become as thin as water, crank case pressure will cause it to blow by the piston rings and building up in the combustion chamber, which causes hard starting and can build to the point where it will seem like the engine is seized up...
Uncanny! There's a fairly new Craftsman push mower in the back shed of the manse that does precisely what you have described. It's almost as if there were no rings left on the piston. Thanks for the advice -- the snow's going quickly and it won't be long before the grass around here needs to be cut again!
 
I apologize, guys, I know that this topic is very old, but maybe my answer will help someone in the future
Gas tanks are easy to weld on if properly prepped. You need to rinse, wash, repeatedly some times, then air and dry out the tank. It can be a lot of work and time and you need to let it sit for awhile to dry it out properly. The only time I have heard of one blowing up is when someone didn't take the time and got in a rush. The tank would have be an easy fix had you let us know before you cut it apart. Sorry for saying though.
I would look for a good used tank or if your heart is really set on it now. try to shape some sheet metal and build a new one. Make sure all the joints are welded very well as vibration failure is very high on sheet metal in those applications.
On YouTube there are a lot of interesting videos on this topic, recently revised an interesting video, as also interested in this problem, just read this article on lawn mowers and their correct operation https://bestoutdooritems.com/best-gas-lawn-mowers/ I hope it helps you

[video=youtube;S8K3u_P2sVo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8K3u_P2sVo[/video]



Good luck​



 
We use Sta-bil as someone else suggested. It really does work well.
 
I've always heard people talk about stale/old/bad gas, but every time I mow for the first time in the spring I use whatever gas was left in it from autumn and haven't had a problem.
 
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