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To tie this back to rocketry, I did see a YouTube video of a kid pulling a loose tooth by tying a string from the tooth to a rocket and launching it. Though with the last few posts this isn't a great mental image. Best stick to composit construction techniques as per the original build thread.
 
To tie this back to rocketry, I did see a YouTube video of a kid pulling a loose tooth by tying a string from the tooth to a rocket and launching it. Though with the last few posts this isn't a great mental image. Best stick to composit construction techniques as per the original build thread.

And to inspire you to get back to the build thread, I now introduce the following mental imagery: Vasectomy by Rocket!

:y:

Wouldn't you rather be discussing fiberglassing a rocket?
 
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I did see a YouTube video of a kid pulling a loose tooth by tying a string from the tooth to a rocket and launching it.

Funny you should mention those videos... My son had a loose tooth for about a month, I had showed him those videos last week and asked if he wanted to try it and he was all for it asking if he could push the button... But, it fell out before we could try it, lol
 
Finally got a chance to get some more work done, which meant (joy of joys), more sanding!

Still lots of filler left to apply, but I wanted to get the first section sanded down a bit more, first. This time, I used wet/dry paper, dipped frequently in water. That way, I could sand in the house, and watch the Hawkeyes romp all over the Golden Gophers. Go Hawkeyes! :)

Anywho, here's a picture of the current state of things. The area in between the upper fins was the main focus today, and it's fairly smooth, at the moment. A few spots could use some additional filler.

IMG_0973.jpg

-Kevin
 
See, I have to do it all at once. If not I'll end up with ripples in the finish that I can't get out.
 
More filler applied...

I had to stop partway through this section, because I ran out of this particular filler (SuperFil). So, I have to wait for it to set up, before I can mix the AeroPoxy Light, and start applying it.

IMG_0974.jpg

I've got a space heater next to the rocket, to elevate the temperature a bit, and thus shorten the cure time.

-Kevin
 
Yet more filler. This time, AeroPoxy Light. This is the first time I've used the AeroPoxy light, but I've used SuperFil several times. Based on easy of mixing and application, I find I like the AeroPoxy Light better -- it's nowhere near as stiff, so it mixes more easily, and spreads a lot more easily. Because of the easier spreading, I can better control where it goes, and how thick it goes on. That means it goes farther, and will not require as much sanding.

IMG_0975.jpg

To give you an idea, I mixed 180 grams of the SuperFil, versus 120 grams of the AeroPoxy Light. The mixed volume was similar, but the AeroPoxy covered a lot more area, because it went on more evenly, and I was better able to control the thickness.

-Kevin
 
The Aeropoxy Light is awesome. In fact it is the best filler for when it comes to filling in spirals. Not only will it fill in those gaps, but it is also glue :D. I believe filling in spirals with this stuff gives an added benefit.
 
Oops I forgot to mention one more thing. Aeropoxy Light is awesome to sand away giving you a smooth uniform surface.
 
The Aeropoxy Light is awesome. In fact it is the best filler for when it comes to filling in spirals. Not only will it fill in those gaps, but it is also glue :D. I believe filling in spirals with this stuff gives an added benefit.

Yep, it's based on their ES6279 epoxy, so it should stick to about anything, too.

-Kevin
 
I've turned myself into the dust devil this evening, by sanding off the excess filler. The AeroPoxy Light does sand a bit more easily, but not by much -- it's still just a time-consuming process (that I do NOT enjoy)!

Making good progress on cleaning things up; still plenty of filler left to be applied, and lots of sanding, as well.

IMG_0976.jpg

Initially, I used 120 grit dry, then I did 220 wet. Today, I used 80 dry. It takes it down faster, but this stuff clogs paper like there's no tomorrow, whether it's wet or dry!

Later, I'll apply yet more filler, and get ready for more descent into the depths of sanding hell.

-Kevin
 
Initially, I used 120 grit dry, then I did 220 wet. Today, I used 80 dry. It takes it down faster, but this stuff clogs paper like there's no tomorrow, whether it's wet or dry!

I just go ahead and use the 60 grit 3M Pro (purple stuff) on initial fill. After about 5 minutes of sanding I beat it out like crazy (whether on a block or power pad) and it stays pretty clear for about five or six rounds (30 minutes). Also helps to have old terry cloth rag around to give it a quick rub.

I do get down to the 120/150 grit, but that's not until I get to the body putty stage. 220 grit doesn't come out until I'm shooting filler-primer.
 
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Mr. 93060,

I completely agree with your sanding suggestions, sixty grit 3m Purple (best product on the market) to start out with on a Random Orbital sander is wonderful, but do be careful. And as the paper loads, use a wire brush to clean it up.

Kent/GLR
 
What "paint" do you guys like for filler-primer?

The best stuff I've ever used is automotive high-build primer, which required a sprayer.

I haven't found anything in a spray can yet that can compare.

-Kevin
 
What "paint" do you guys like for filler-primer?

For a spray can option, I use Rustoleum Automotive Filler-Primer. Duplicolor also has an automotive Filler-Primer, but I don't think it fills quite as well and I can't get it as cheap as the Rustoleum (which is important because I use a ton of it).
 
I completely agree with your sanding suggestions, sixty grit 3m Purple (best product on the market) to start out with on a Random Orbital sander is wonderful, but do be careful. And as the paper loads, use a wire brush to clean it up.

Never thought of using a brush to clear the sandpaper; I'll give that a try, tonight! Good sandpaper isn't cheap, though in the long run, it's a lot cheaper, and saves tons of time.

For those of you following along, if you use cheapo sandpaper, then try doing the same job with good stuff, you'll be amazed at how much longer your sandpaper lasts, how much less you throw away, and how much faster the work goes, because you're not constantly stopping to swap worn out sandpaper.

-Kevin
 
Never thought of using a brush to clear the sandpaper; I'll give that a try, tonight! Good sandpaper isn't cheap, though in the long run, it's a lot cheaper, and saves tons of time.

For those of you following along, if you use cheapo sandpaper, then try doing the same job with good stuff, you'll be amazed at how much longer your sandpaper lasts, how much less you throw away, and how much faster the work goes, because you're not constantly stopping to swap worn out sandpaper.

-Kevin

Amen!! I thought I was doing myself a favor last year when I stocked up on sandpaper at Harbor Freight. It was cheap, so it seemed like a good idea to get a bunch. Its amazing how crappy the stuff was..... and how much extra work it required to get anywhere with it. The cheap orbital sander pads performed dismally as well, I was forever changing them out since they didn't last.

Since then I've bought good stuff at Home Depot and am so much happier, and the results speak for themselves.
 
Since then I've bought good stuff at Home Depot and am so much happier, and the results speak for themselves.

Another good source is Klingspor -- quality stuff, and available in any shape and size you can imagine. I buy the stuff I use a lot of in rolls.

-Kevin
 
The best stuff I've ever used is automotive high-build primer, which required a sprayer.

I haven't found anything in a spray can yet that can compare.

-Kevin

I have a decent sprayer. Do you have a particular brand you like? Is the primer catalyzed?
 
I have a decent sprayer. Do you have a particular brand you like? Is the primer catalyzed?

The can of primer is pretty well buried right now; go to an auto paint store, and ask for an inexpensive high solids primer, and they should be able to set you up. The stuff I used is indeed catalyzed; it's actually a 3 part system.

To give you an idea of how much solids, the stirring stick would only go about halfway into the can before encountering a major sludge.

-Kevin
 
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