Air compressor/ spray painting

Okay, here's the deal. I have been thinking about getting an airbrush set-up for painting because I hate the rattle cans littering my garage. However, my bicycle pump recently decided that after 15 years of use that it had enough.

So, I was wondering if there is an air compressor that is relatively inexpensive that will both keep my tires inflated and work a spray gun? I don't want something that is going to do a half ass job for both applications, but something that will work well.

Any recommendations for the compressor and spray guns or airbrushes or kits are much appreciated.

Che said:

Any recommendations for the compressor and spray guns or airbrushes or kits are much appreciated.

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At the low end of the cost spectrum, check out Harbor Freight. Hobby shops will carry more expensive and higher quality airbrush set ups.

If you plan on doing nail guns and such, you might want to look at the so-called pancake compressor setups. They start at about $150 and go up. You will need to buy a paint spray gun.

Like everything else, there will be compromises. The best airbrush compressors will be ill-suited to inflating tires, running nail guns, etc. I bit the bullet and bought a small compressor for airbrushing and a larger 3 gallon tank compressor that keeps my tires inflated and runs my nail guns.

Airbrushes can be picked up pretty cheaply if you want to try them out. Revell makes a small kit that runs off disposable cans of propellant. It's a great way to see if you're cut out to be an airbrush "artiste". FasKolor makes a very wide assortment of flashy colors that are designed to paint R/C cars but works very well on all surfaces.

That being said, I use Rustoleum rattlecans when painting my rockets. Easy to use (buy the Rustoleum spray can holder/pistol grip - it's worth the $6 it costs) and available in my preferred fluorescent pink and metallic black. Most importantly, there's no clean-up of spray guns/airbrushes/etc.

Airbrushes come with a different set of problems than rattle cans. You can paint something with an airbrush very quickly, but be prepared to spend as much time cleaning as you do painting. You will also spend a lot of time prepping.

Most paint has to be thinned to work in an airbrush. You will use alcohol, water, or special thinner. Once thinned, paint may not last more than a few weeks depending on how it was thinned.

You also need to practice getting the right ratio of paint to thinner and this can change with temperature, humidity and air pressure. I would also suggest a water trap as compressed air will draw out the moisture and you will occasionally spray water along with your paint.

You should also expect to spend quite a bit of time and paint practicing. To get the best results you need to know how the airbrush works. If you plan on doing detail work I suggest a double action airbrush, but if this is just for rockets then a single action is good enough. Make sure the nozzle you get sprays a wide pattern as some are for detail work only.

Another avenue you can take before you buy an airbrush/compressor set up is take a class at your local community college is they offer one. This way you can try your hand at air brushing and learn some of the more common techniques. You will also have an opportunity to ask questions about the different types of recommended air brushed to use....not sure what a class would cost? At least you will be able to develop some skills and obtain some knowledge before buying your own.

I was hoping to find something in the middle of the road here. The last time I was at the auto parts store, I saw that you can buy Duplicolor Auto paints in a quart (?) size container for $25. I was thinking that I would be happy to but 3 or 4 colors and just work around them.

I have no clue about compressors and spray guns or airbrushes. I have no desire to do any detail work aside from the potential fade and blend colors, so I don't think that I would need a narrow gun at all.

I wouldn't mind spending a little more on a compressor if it meant that I could use it for more than just painting.

Che said:

I was hoping to find something in the middle of the road here. The last time I was at the auto parts store, I saw that you can buy Duplicolor Auto paints in a quart (?) size container for $25. I was thinking that I would be happy to but 3 or 4 colors and just work around them.

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Another option, as an introduction to these Duplicolor paints, is to buy disposable Preval aerosol sprayers. I do this. I have one for example for my Duplicolor Metallic Clear lacquer. No cleaning other than running a little lacquer thinner through the nozzle after I'm done.

See the sprayer here:
https://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5y...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I bought a couple; keep the lacquer thinner in one with the supplied lid.

I've had no problem spraying the metallic clear with these Preval units. I get a nice even, smooth surface every time (presuming the surface was smooth to start with :dark: ).

The Preval units are also available at NAPA auto parts usually.
Marc

Che said:

I was hoping to find something in the middle of the road here. The last time I was at the auto parts store, I saw that you can buy Duplicolor Auto paints in a quart (?) size container for $25. I was thinking that I would be happy to but 3 or 4 colors and just work around them.

I have no clue about compressors and spray guns or airbrushes. I have no desire to do any detail work aside from the potential fade and blend colors, so I don't think that I would need a narrow gun at all.

I wouldn't mind spending a little more on a compressor if it meant that I could use it for more than just painting.

Click to expand...

Well, the important parameters of a compressor are the pressure its capable of delivering and the cubic/feet/minute rating...

We got by with small belt driven 1/2 to 3/4 horse electric portable single stage single piston compressors in the farm shop for years. It got quite a work out and couldn't keep up with heavy air tool use and spray painting; air tools use a pretty good amount of air and require high pressure to work, whereas spray guns use TONS of air, albeit at lower pressure, but the sheer volume of air they use means you run out of air pretty quickly. I managed all those years though, and just accepted the short 'breaks' necessary to let the compressor catch up. I used to paint cotton pickers (12 feet high, 25 feet or so long, 10 feet wide) and stuff in less than a day... you run out of paint almost as much as you run out of air...

One thing I can tell you-- go with an oil-type piston compressor... the oilless type are NOISY and have a short working life! The oilless type build air pressure faster (they turn faster) but they don't last very long in regular use (unless it's short duty-cycle use (IE they run a little while then shut off for a longer period of time). We had belt driven piston compressors that literally ran for decades. The oilless I had lasted about 2-3 years.

When the oilless crapped out, I started looking around, and the portables had gone up substantially in price. So, I opted for a shop compressor-- got a Campbell Hausfeld from TSC on sale for $290. It's a twin cylinder single stage belt drive piston compressor that cranks out 150 psi at 11.5 cfm. The old portables cranked out about 100 psi at about 5 cfm, so this is a nice step up! Ran PVC pipes around the shop with drops and couplers to connect air hoses to at various strategic points, and put a hose reel out on the corner of the shop. Works like a champ.

Just about ANY compressor can build 100 psi or more pressure. All you need for bike tires is 10-20 PSI or so, car tires generally run at 35 psi or so. Spray guns need about 25-35 psi or so usually, but can run up to about 6-8 cfm depending on the size of the gun. Smaller guns usually use less air. If you use a gun with a portable compressor, realize that you'll have to paint for about 5-10 minutes and then wait about 5 minutes for the compressor to catch up. Not a big deal if you get used to it.

Later and good luck! OL JR

Been airbrushing for 40+ yrs. Compressors can be picked up pretty cheap depending on what you want. While oilless are noisy--relatively--with a 3-5 gal tank, once pumped up , you should be able to airbrush about anything without it cycling again if you use a preasure regulator. Harbour has them on sale till 2/12 for 49 with coupon. With that you can pump up tires and run SMALL air tools. As far as air brushes are concerned, I have 3 of varying grades--an Aztec, a Binks, and a Paashe.You can pick up a knock off for cheap and can learn with it. Trust me when I say" once you get the bug it's over" You'll want a better gun and I live by my Paashe dual action. i probably use it 95% of the time. CLEANING IS CRITICAL as with any tool and they will last a life time. Down the road you may decide to get a whisper quiet compressor for your airbrush only but they can be pricey.I'd say start cheap and get your feet wet--move on from there.

I started airbrushing in '73. I've had a few small compressors. An air tank filled with CO2 or such-like is the way to go. A regulator for the tank and you're all set for noiseless airbrushing. I've had the tank for years and have yet to re-fill it.

A Paasche single action "H" will do the work required ($40–$50 for a starter set at Hobbylinc.com). Get a No. 5 spray tip. Unless you're doing plastic models, illustration or fine detail work, you really don't need anything else—of course, it's all preference. Createx acrylics can be sprayed unthinned. Affordable, as many colors as you will ever need and cleaning your airbrush is a snap as opposed to oil/thinner-based paints. Spray over top of enamels or lacquers and clear coat with either. Oh, no waiting for 24 hours and the like. Createx is usually heat-set. That is to say; take a hair dryer and hit for a few minutes and you're ready to go again.

An airbrush and tank combination is a wonderful thing. Best set-up I've ever had.

Che said:

I was hoping to find something in the middle of the road here. The last time I was at the auto parts store, I saw that you can buy Duplicolor Auto paints in a quart (?) size container for $25. I was thinking that I would be happy to but 3 or 4 colors and just work around them.

I have no clue about compressors and spray guns or airbrushes. I have no desire to do any detail work aside from the potential fade and blend colors, so I don't think that I would need a narrow gun at all.

I wouldn't mind spending a little more on a compressor if it meant that I could use it for more than just painting.

Click to expand...

One nice thing about spraying your own is that you can mix paints to just about any color you want if you can get a good set of starting ingredients. I haven't used the Duplicolor paints you mention, but they've come up before on this board (search in Techniques forum) and are well regarded, IIRC. And BTW, you can paint A LOT of model rockets with a quart of paint!

An single action, external mix airbrush is all you need for doing what you describe. They are the simplest to operate and easiest to clean. The Paasche H is a venerable and popular model.

"middle of the road" and "a little more" are a bit vague and mean different things to different people depending on their perspective. If you have an actual budget figure, that would help. A few years ago I replaced my 1 hp, 20 gallon setup with a much bigger, more expensive unit because the smaller one wasn't adequate for my needs (hobby auto body work). That is on a different level than you are talking about, but there are others who would find my new setup totally inadequate for their needs.

I grew up with having compressed air available, and in the years since I've been without it for less than a year total. Being a Mr. Fix-It type guy, I can't imagine my life without it. It comes in handy for all sorts of things besides filling tires and running spray guns. Especially useful for blowing dust and other crap out of all the other technology of our modern lifestyle.

The key parameters you need to consider when selecting a compressor are 1) the pressure requirement (psi) of the tool, 2) the air flow (cfm) requirement of the tool at that pressure, and 3) the duty cycle of your use of the tool (% of time you are actually using air). The combination of those drives the size, and therefore the cost, of the compressor. An airbrush needs around 40 psi at the most, and somewhere around 1 cfm (bit of a guess). That pressure is in line with most automotive tires, but I have some truck tires that require 75 psi and there are tires out there that are even higher. You don't need high cfm for tires, but you have to have enough pressure. My detail spray gun is something like 5 cfm at 30 psi, and my full size gun is 9 cfm at 30 psi. Mechanic and auto body air tools typically like 90 psi, and some, like body sanders, can really suck up the air (9 cfm). 9 cfm @ 90 psi is a different animal than 9 cfm @ 30 psi.

So, bottom line, try to envision what you could want to do with compressed air and get a compressor at least that big. The hard part comes where the ratings are either missing or ambiguous to make the figures more impressive. For example, a compressor may be rated at a certain pressure and a certain flow, but they don't tell you that it doesn't flow that rate at that pressure. Or they may not even actually deliver what is on the label. After all, how many customers have test equipment to verify it?

hornet driver said:

Been airbrushing for 40+ yrs. Compressors can be picked up pretty cheap depending on what you want. While oilless are noisy--relatively--with a 3-5 gal tank, once pumped up , you should be able to airbrush about anything without it cycling again if you use a preasure regulator. Harbour has them on sale till 2/12 for 49 with coupon. With that you can pump up tires and run SMALL air tools. As far as air brushes are concerned, I have 3 of varying grades--an Aztec, a Binks, and a Paashe.You can pick up a knock off for cheap and can learn with it. Trust me when I say" once you get the bug it's over" You'll want a better gun and I live by my Paashe dual action. i probably use it 95% of the time. CLEANING IS CRITICAL as with any tool and they will last a life time. Down the road you may decide to get a whisper quiet compressor for your airbrush only but they can be pricey.I'd say start cheap and get your feet wet--move on from there.

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Yeah, and you can always put the compressor somewhere else... none of them are particularly "quiet" (except the "silent" airbrush compressors of course, but those are PRICEY).

50 foot air hoses are cheap, and you can pick up a combo moisture separator/regulator at HF and connect the hoses up to it. I'd put the moisture trap/regulator on the end of the hose near the gun/airbrush and then use a short "whip hose" to connect up to it. Basically you want the pressure regulated as close to the gun/airbrush as possible, to account for pressure drop in the line and fittings before it gets to the gun. Just make sure the moisture trap is clamped securely and remains right-side-up so you don't pull it over if you run out of whip hose... Plus, having it close allows for faster pressure adjustments and more accurate pressure at the gun/airbrush.

To the OP-- you can also get good paint at good prices at TSC and the other "ag stores" in various colors... I use them a lot.

later! OL JR

RimfireJim said:

One nice thing about spraying your own is that you can mix paints to just about any color you want if you can get a good set of starting ingredients.

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This is particularly true if you can leverage a popular hobby like R/C cars and trucks. The lexan bodies of these little demons are painted on the inside and this opens the door for a lot of personalization and even commercial artists being involved.

One of the young'uns who works at my LHS does airbrush work as a sideline. He does R/C cars and planes, guitars, and some automotive work. He steered me to the Parma FasKolor line of airbrush paint which is sold online and in hobby shops everywhere. In addition to the many fluorescent and pearlescent colors, there are metal flakes and if you can't find one you like, you can mix in one or more of several different metallics to pretty much any of the stock colors. What convinced me was the product folder that showed a couple of amateur rockets that had been painted with FasKolor. "Paint any surface" is always good.

There is even an instructional DVD on how to use the stuff. How to Airbrush with FasKolor Paint

OD says check it out.

Luke and Rimfire make some great points--IE- moisture trap--very important and moving the compressor because of noise-I don't have that luxury right now since I'm in an apt but it's easy to do. If your really not going to use high CFM airtools right NOW--don't waist the money on something you don't-or may not need--You can always upgrade later

For years I used a repurposed freon tank as my only air source for airbrushing. It worked fine and I recharged it at the gas station. I could top up my tires with it as well.

One of the slickest ideas I've seen recently is using a SPARE TIRE as an air tank-- of course the bigger the tire (say a pickup tire) the better (conversely one of those 'donut spares' would be practically worthless unless they take high pressure of say 50 PSI). Air the tire up at the shop, hook the airbrush hose to the valve stem, and bleed air from the tire to do the airbrushing.

I used the same trick last winter to air up a tractor tire. Rear tractor tires are quite large (mine are usually on a 30 inch rim) and hold a LOT of air at relatively low pressure (about 20 PSI at most when full, usually run at about 15 PSI) I went to feed cows and found the tractor rear tire almost flat-- good enough to drive on, but when I picked up a round bale of hay, it squatted practically to the ground under the weight. I keep a micro compressor (cigarette lighter plug powered) behind the seat, but it takes about an hour or so to air up a tractor tire due to the huge volume. I had the air tank, and aired the tractor tire up, but by the time the air expanded in the tire it was still at only about 6-8 PSI and the tank was practically empty (same pressure-- I let the air flow until the pressure equalized, at which point the air won't flow out of the tank into the tire anymore). That still wasn't enough air in the tractor tire. I needed a quick solution so I decided to unscrew the caps off the trailer tires on one side and then "air up" the tank from the trailer tires, since they typically run 36 PSI in them. I took them down to 15 PSI, which put about that much into the tank, and then put that air into the tractor tire, which when it expanded out into the tire brough the tire up to 10 PSI, enough to get the cows fed.

After lunch I stopped at the tire shop in town and aired the trailer tires back up to 36 PSI (without a load 15 PSI was enough to get them to town) and aired the tank up, and then topped the tractor tire up to 15 PSI.

Worked like a champ.

Later! OL JR

So, I have been looking at this compressor, I'm still on the fence because I'm not certain that I want to paint rockets in the garage in the summer.

https://www.lowes.com/pd_340271-43657-HG300000DI_0__?productId=3341298&Ntt=campbell+hausfeld&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dcampbell%2Bhausfeld&facetInfo=

Tackle over 60 projects with this 8-gallon 200 PSI compressor such as inflating car and bike tires, installing trim and molding, repairing lawn equipment and more. Features no maintenance oil-free pump. The 200 PSI rating lets your air tools run 40% longer and helps you save space in your garage. Includes easy-to-use 2.5 inch soft-touch regulator knob for more comfortable pressure adjustments. One year warranty. Available at Lowe`s and lowes.com.

Use to finish over 60 projects such as cleaning workbench, inflating car and bike tires, installing trim and molding, and more
40% longer air tool run time (based on initial tank fill of 200 psi compared to an initial tank fill of 150 psi max on same size tank; assumes tool operation to 90 psi)
Save space in your garage with compact vertical tank design
Easy-to-use 2.5 inch soft-touch regulator knob for more comfortable pressure adjustments
Easy-to-read 2 inch outlet pressure gauge
No maintenance oil-free pump
Portable design is easy to move around
Improved balance and stability since pump and motor are located at the bottom of the tank
Features ASME code tank for safe, reliable operation
Delivers 2.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI; Max 200 PSI

Wayco, that is exactly what I was thinking. At less than $200, I would be happy with 3-5 years of utility. My biggest concern is painting in the garage. Hot in the summer and not very well ventilated unless I keep the door open.

Go here and read this thread: https://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showthread.php?t=4335

Che said:

So, I have been looking at this compressor, I'm still on the fence because I'm not certain that I want to paint rockets in the garage in the summer.

https://www.lowes.com/pd_340271-43657-HG300000DI_0__?productId=3341298&Ntt=campbell+hausfeld&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dcampbell%2Bhausfeld&facetInfo=

Tackle over 60 projects with this 8-gallon 200 PSI compressor such as inflating car and bike tires, installing trim and molding, repairing lawn equipment and more. Features no maintenance oil-free pump. The 200 PSI rating lets your air tools run 40% longer and helps you save space in your garage. Includes easy-to-use 2.5 inch soft-touch regulator knob for more comfortable pressure adjustments. One year warranty. Available at Lowe`s and lowes.com.

Use to finish over 60 projects such as cleaning workbench, inflating car and bike tires, installing trim and molding, and more
40% longer air tool run time (based on initial tank fill of 200 psi compared to an initial tank fill of 150 psi max on same size tank; assumes tool operation to 90 psi)
Save space in your garage with compact vertical tank design
Easy-to-use 2.5 inch soft-touch regulator knob for more comfortable pressure adjustments
Easy-to-read 2 inch outlet pressure gauge
No maintenance oil-free pump
Portable design is easy to move around
Improved balance and stability since pump and motor are located at the bottom of the tank
Features ASME code tank for safe, reliable operation
Delivers 2.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI; Max 200 PSI

Click to expand...

My advice... don't walk, RUN from this compressor...

This is a classic example of selling you something you don't need.

For starters, the only thing that uses air pressure REMOTELY requiring 200 PSI is semi-truck tires. The higher the pressure a compressor has to develop, the shorter the service life (generally speaking). Also, it generates A LOT more heat compressing air to that pressure.

What they're TRYING to do is a "fake out" in swapping pressure for capacity... notice the VERY LOW cfm rating... and even that's a MAJOR FAKE OUT because it's rated at ONLY 2.5 CFM at 90 PSI NOT at 2.5 CFM at 200 PSI which is full pressure... at 200 PSI this things going to be BARELY creating any output whatsoever... it's like the difference between trying to put out a house fire with a garden hose at 50 PSI delivering maybe 5 gallons a minute and a FIRE HOSE at 50 PSI delivering maybe 500 gallons/minute. BIG difference where it counts! Yeah, the extra pressure means more air is crammed into the tank (making the compressor work a LOT HARDER to get it there, which also means a LONG recharge time for the compressor to build back up to pressure...) and it can keep an air tool working a while longer than say the same amount of air at 130 PSI could (because less volume of air is crammed into same space, hence the lower pressure) but it's a crappy way of doing it.

You'd do WAY better to get a compressor (oil type is preferable IMHO from a durability standpoint-- oilless just aren't made for the long haul, ESPECIALLY at such a high operating pressure!) with a higher CFM rating at 120-130 PSI max... like I said, the 200 PSI is just a cheat, and will GREATLY shorten the life of this compressor, no matter what the 'advertising' says.

The built in regulators are "okay" but honestly I prefer the combo regulator/filter drier you can get for about 10 bucks or so at Harbor Freight. You really want the regulator as close to the point of use as you can get (IE gun or airbrush end of the hose). You don't really use the air pressure regulator with air tools because it's a constriction that reduces the volume of air that can flow through it, hence the downstream pressure, which is BAD when you're trying to use an impact wrench or orbital sander... About the only thing you REALLY need a regulator for is painting, to get a stable supply of air from the gun/airbrush. The built in regulators are usually pretty cheap and crappy, and when they go to pot they're a BIG pain to replace or fix...

I honestly think you can get a MUCH better compressor at TSC or Rural King or Big R or even probably do as well for less money at Harbor Freight or Homeier or Northern Tool... BE SURE you get ACCURATE CFM RATINGS (and notice the pressure they're taken at-- the lower the pressure the higher the volumetric efficiency of the compressor-- IE if the compressor say has a displacement of oh, say 10 cubic inches... then it would theoretically push 10 cubic inches of air out of the cylinder with each stroke if there was no pressure in the tank... (theoretically because you actually have vacuum losses and pressure drops across the intake and exhaust valves of the compressor, which limit the airflow through them measurably since they're an obstruction). Now, as the pressure rises, the compressor is still drawing in air at ambient (atmospheric) pressure, but it has to compress it ABOVE THE PRESSURE IN THE TANK before it will open the exhaust valve and start flowing out of the compressor cylinder. When the compressor reaches the end of it's stroke, the air in the cylinder is STILL at the same pressure as the tank, and the exhaust valve snaps shut (reed valves or poppet valves) because there's no pressure differential to hold them open any longer. SO, the compressed air trapped in the cylinder expands, pushing the piston back down part way, but since some of the air was squeezed out the exhaust valve, the air expands and its pressure lowers until it's below atmospheric pressure-- the intake valve opens as the piston continues down, drawing more air into the cylinder. When the compressor's at the bottom of it's stroke, the piston stops and starts back up- the pressure gradient holding the intake valve open equalizes and the intake valve snaps shut. The piston moves up and compresses the air until the pressure in the cylinder is higher than that in the tank, which forces the exhaust valve open, repeating the cycle.

Now, at SOME POINT, the pressure in the cylinder will NOT exceed the pressure in the tank, and the exhaust valve will NOT be forced open, and NO MORE AIR will be compressed. The trapped air above the piston under this high pressure will merely expand as the piston descends, and since no air was forced out, when the piston reaches the bottom of its stroke, there won't be any pressure difference between the cylinder and the atmosphere... so the instake valve won't be forced open either... The greater the pressure in the tank, the less air is actually "squeezed out" of the cylinder with each stroke, making the airflow decrease more and more until it reaches this "stagnation point". This is where two-stage compressors come in (though these are really only needed for industrial applications). One piston compresses the air, then feeds that compressed air to a SECOND piston as its intake air, at a substantially higher pressure than atmospheric, raising the stagnation point considerably. But the same laws of volumetric efficiency apply...

If you're just doing some small airbrushing projects and maybe airing up a tire or two now and then, this compressor would be ok for that... probably won't last over 5 years, but it'd be ok... for any "serious" work, I wouldn't touch this thing with a ten foot pole...

IMHO! Later! OL JR

Che said:

So, I have been looking at this compressor, I'm still on the fence because I'm not certain that I want to paint rockets in the garage in the summer.

https://www.lowes.com/pd_340271-43657-HG300000DI_0__?productId=3341298&Ntt=campbell+hausfeld&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dcampbell%2Bhausfeld&facetInfo=

Click to expand...

For the same price from Lowes, you might want to consider the Hitachi EC89. Slightly higher output, but the big difference is that it is oil lubricated and therefore should be a lot quieter than the Campbell Hausfeld (and last longer). You probably won't think it is "quiet" when you hear it, but if you've ever heard an oilless you'll know the difference.

Hmmm....from what I read, the Hitachi EC89 didn't fare all that well in the reviews department. Lots of complaints about tripping the thermal overload sensor.

One tip I spotted was that the compressor was sensitive to the type of oil used. One reviewer mentioned that normal 30 weight oil was NOT the ticket. He mentioned a diesel type oil and having no problems with his compressor. Sorry but I didn't save the link.

Hitachi can be a mixed bag with tools. I love my Hitachi circ saw to pieces as it's exceptionally well made and cuts beautifully but it has no cut depth measurements! Go figger.

I have always used a co2 tank for airbrushing - I like the silence, not needing the moisture trap, and steady pressure

So, I am game to hear what you use or what you recommend for painting and filling tires.

I bought a Badger air compressor at Michael's with a 40% off coupon and the price was around $100. This compressor has an auto shut-off feature which is really nice in that it only runs when you press the botton/leaver on the airbrush and sits quietly the rest of the time. I use a Badger regulator/water-trap and a braided hose with my Badger 200 and 250 airbrushes.

I use a little starter badger general purpose airbrush for some fancyish stuff for various things. kinda like a clear over coat of color type of thing.

When I was a kid mind you I had a really nice badger set up and was in the through of teaching myself all types of fancy painting techniques when my equipment got stolen.

and besides, the art of the Van Mural had fallen out of fashion by the late 80's

anyways.. the set up I use now is simply a 8 gallon portable air tank, and that cheapo little badger single action with the under-cup draw feed. good for general spraying. a 2:1 mix of pain to thinner will give a nice transparent over coat, multiple shots will close that up.
But, I fill the portable air can off of the Air supply from the brewery. That air is generated by a two banger compressor, and the out flow air runs through a chiller type air dryer.
the concept being that the out flow air from the reserve tank passes through a condenser unit which chills the air down to 24 degrees F. that of course causes all the moisture in the air to condense out where the collected water is blown out of the system.
the result? Bone dry air with no surprises on the air brush side.

but, the air bush does burn through that can pretty dang fast on full throttle. eventually I'll get around to putting a proper flow regulator on the tanks outflow. But, how I use the brush, and how often I use it, I haven't felt a need to do so yet. maybe the next time I gotta change out some CO2 regulators in the brewery I'll harvest the best one for that purpose

Wayco said:

I think Old Dude is looking at this whole issue from a different perspective, probably due to his experience with heavy farm equipment and tools that need to be reliable.

Click to expand...

Nope, warn't me. You're probably confusing me with OL JR. He ranches while I'm just a Lawn Guy-Lander who lived in Texas for several years.

My recco was a hobby compressor for airbrushing and a more robust compressor like maybe a pancake model for tool use/tire inflation/etc. The pancake would drive the airbrush with a moisture trap if necessary but it's kind of overkill. One of those small portable reservoir tanks with a regulator might work also. Just pump it up with the bigger compressor and then use it silently for airbrushing. I've heard of folks using an inflated tire for the same purpose...uh oh, is that redneck behavior?

Yeah, probably confusing us Old Dude... (kind of an easy thing to do at times )

No, I wasn't looking at it from strictly a "farm" point of view... the specs he listed were pretty pathetic, especially for the kind of money he was quoting. If it were a $40 Harbor Freight compressor, I could see it... but they're selling this thing like a "top of the line" home/light shop compressor which it ain't.

Personally you'd be better off with the El Cheapo Harbor Freight jobbie and replace it when it dies. Spending big bucks on something that's gonna crap out within 5 years just seems a bit nonsensical to me.

The oilless are ok if you're just using the occassionally and not doing much heavy work with them (low duty cycle). You can get about 10 years out of them if your lucky. Do any REAL work with them and they'll be shot in 3...

I don't have any specific recommendation except "shop around". Look at specs and see what's available at what prices. Personally I like the TSC, Rural King, Big R "ag" type stores-- farmers are usually pretty picky buyers and while more than a few want "cheap", nobody wants "junk", and the gimmicky stuff usually doesn't get much traction... Not to say none of it ever gets in the store, but usually it doesn't sell (unless it's at a STEEP discount!)

Now, I buy wood and plumbing parts and wiring and paint and hardware and stuff from the Home Depot/Lowes type stores, but I shy away from them on tools. What they have is usually the crappier low end versions of "big name" tools that are overpriced at that. Lots of folks buy "John Deere" mowers at Lowes or HD and then are shocked and amazed when they go to the John Deere dealer for parts and get laughed out of the store... Oh, John Deere sells their own brand of lawn machinery, but they don't sell it at the big box stores... the stuff is "labeled" John Deere but it's off brand crap built by a third party vendor. I'd be willing to bet a good number of their tools are similar.

My advice-- set a budget of what you want to spend, shop around, and get the highest CFM rating you can find for the money. CFM is actually more important than pressure for everything but doing HEAVY DUTY work with big impact wrenches or airing up semi-truck tires and other high pressure applications like running sanders and grinders. Most painting and airing up car tires and stuff is done at low pressure.

Later and good luck! OL JR

luke strawwalker said:

Lots of folks buy "John Deere" mowers at Lowes or HD and then are shocked and amazed when they go to the John Deere dealer for parts and get laughed out of the store... Oh, John Deere sells their own brand of lawn machinery, but they don't sell it at the big box stores... the stuff is "labeled" John Deere but it's off brand crap built by a third party vendor.

Click to expand...

You sure about that? Doesn't sound right to me. I agree that it is the bottom end of JD's market, but the products (D100 series riding mowers, for example) are right there in JD's product line along with all the more expensive models. Yeah, they're not the commercial duty models that the dealers sell, so they would have a bias. My B-I-L has had homeowner JDs for years and has never been "laughed out of the store" when getting replacement parts.