Alternate Shock cord materials beside Kevlar?

Onebadhawk said:

https://onebadhawk.com/light-kevlar.html
I'm less then Emma Kites or anyone else on ebay or Amazon..
Thank you for your support..

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Good to know! Thanks.

Onebadhawk said:

https://onebadhawk.com/light-kevlar.html

I'm less then Emma Kites or anyone else on ebay or Amazon..

Thank you for your support..

Teddy

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I did not know that, Teddy.

Knew you had crazy amounts and selections of swivels and you make the best shock cords around, but the bulk kevlar was news to me.

I stand corrected.

A virtual High Five to you!

Onebadhawk said:

I'm less then Emma Kites or anyone else on ebay or Amazon..

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Maybe I'm missing something but I just bought a 1000' roll of this for $23.95 ($.02 per ft.).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZPR1IIQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The Very Light Round is listed for $9 per 50' ($.18 per ft).
What's the difference between the two?
This is an honest question, not a challenge or gotcha. I'm not experienced enough with this stuff to do that.
I've already gotten familiar with and trust the general consensus on the high quality of your HP recovery harnesses and will be coming straight to you when I do my next HP build.

Alan R said:

I was working on my Magg this morning, so here's a picture of it. The coffee straw runs along the BT on the outside, Kevlar string tied around the motor tube. The other end ties to the shock cord, just short of zipper length.

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Why put the straw on the BT and not MMT between centering rings? Again, honest question. Not a challenge.
How far would you take this design? I mean, we'll be building all of our LP stuff this way for now on but up to what power range would you take it?
It seems to be more of an elegant solution than the one I offered you.

Cmac said:

Why put the straw on the BT and not MMT between centering rings?

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I misspoke there. The straw is actually glued to the centering rings, but it runs along the BT side instead of being placed directly next to the motor tube. Just in case it should ever get too hot. That was my thinking at the time I started doing it that way, but now I don't think the MT ever gets hot enough to matter.

Cmac said:

but up to what power range would you take it?

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F, G? After that (38mm and up), shock cord mounts use eyebolts and epoxy and you showed me a better way to hook it up.

Cmac said:

It seems to be more of an elegant solution than the one I offered you.

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I suppose it could be done with bigger motors, but that Zephyr is my first HPR, and I don't know anything about HPR stress points yet. Building per instructions. Maybe next time? It would require a larger tube and heavier cord. Or if you had a 1/4"+ hole you could probably skip the tube. Easy enough to thread something through that size opening.

Thanks Alan.

... And then K'Tesh goes and post's this... https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/using-protection-yes-rubbers-for-your-rocket.158586/

K'Tesh said:

... And then K'Tesh goes and post's this... https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/using-protection-yes-rubbers-for-your-rocket.158586/

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Hm. Kevlar. Rubber shock cord. All good.

Nice post BTW, especially about the weather-proofing techniques.

When Public Enemy was in business, their rockets came with bungee-type cord for shock cords. As for washing kevlar shock cords, what method and detergents do people use? I figure dishwashing liquid and hand-washed with warm water might be a safe method, but I’m tempted to just throw them in the washing machine and drop in a tide pod. Though, I might try that with a kevlar chute protector that is looking particularly nasty first.

hball55 said:

When Public Enemy was in business, their rockets came with bungee-type cord for shock cords. As for washing kevlar shock cords, what method and detergents do people use? I figure dishwashing liquid and hand-washed with warm water might be a safe method, but I’m tempted to just throw them in the washing machine and drop in a tide pod. Though, I might try that with a kevlar chute protector that is looking particularly nasty first.

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I washed a handful of chutes and lines in the washing machine over the years. I will never, ever do that again. The material was fine, but it took countless hours to untangle. Hand wash one at a time and hang outside to dry is my only method moving forward (or throw away and buy more).

Sandy.

Sandy H. said:

I washed a handful of chutes and lines in the washing machine over the years. I will never, ever do that again. The material was fine, but it took countless hours to untangle. Hand wash one at a time and hang outside to dry is my only method moving forward (or throw away and buy more).

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I get around this by a) flying too much motor near trees and b) overtrimming delays. No more dirty chutes to take home and wash.

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After every launch, I soak my cords (nylon, Kevlar, Bull Line) and the Nomex blankets in a big pail of water over night. I then squeeze out the excess water and let them air dry. My purpose is to get the acidic residues off.
Years ago a friend gave me many feet of "Bull line". It's used to pull cable long distances. It is a 3/4" woven nylon with a metal wire. (I remove the metal wire.) It doesn't like heat so I use it on the other side of a piston system or long Nomex shock cord protectors.

fyrechaser said:

+1
Add to that: Proper length of your recovery harness as well as several folds along the length that are lightly bound with tape around the folds. This serves to dissipate energy as the harness is extended. Has worked very well for me for a long time.

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I have seen people doing this at my local launches. Never had the chance to do it since I haven't flown anything too crazy to use this method. Maybe I will try it on my Level 2 3" Punisher build.