What did you do rocket wise today?

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bronicabill said:
Since Saturday night/early Sunday morning was apparently an "insomnia night", I ended up in the workshop trying to finish up my Estes Bullpup that I started several years ago. Got the final coats of balsa filler done on the fins, and after one final finish sanding tomorrow (actually later today), it'll be ready for paint, then decals.

I was motivated to finish it because I just picked up two new kits Saturday, an Estes Black Brant II, and an Estes Cherokee-E, plus a few packs of motors for each. Interestingly, these are my first D or E-impulse rockets EVER... despite the fact I've been building and flying rockets for about 50 years now, AND my second mid-power rocket (an Aerotech ARCAS HV) is nearing completion. Not one to leave things as they were designed, I converted my first ARCAS (about 15 years ago) to dual-deployment, and have done the same on this new one. LOTS of re-engineering has gone into it, for reasons I'd prefer not to discuss! :p:D
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I also had a somewhat restless night and woke up after a four hour "nap".

Odd coincidence that I re-read the construction guide for my VanderBurn upscale Cherokee-H kit. It's possible to build the kit as either a Cherokee E with the supplied tubing or to shorten one of the tubes by 10" to build a Cherokee D.

After reading the instructions I fell back to sleep.
 
I rolled my body tube for Spruce Goose. I'll get a build thread up here shortly, but in the meantime, imagine going from this

Spruce.jpg

to a 4' long, 3" diameter tube 5/16" thick.
 
Placed an order for an old school LOC kit w/upgrades through Robert and Gloria at Animal Motor Works who were running a Save Our Sanity sale--yeah!
 
Printed my first nose cone. Pretty happy with the result. Minor blemish on the tip that was easily taken care of with a sharp exactly knife. Fits a 38mm LOC tube perfectly. Now working on my first fin can.

IMG_20200322_101242~2.jpegIMG_20200322_163509.jpeg
 
I'm thinking about doing a scratch build, but I'm not sure what to use for my airframe, I'm thinking either thinwall PVC or maybe a poster tube. Now that I have a lathe, I can turn my own nosecone. The motor will be a G impulse. Any recommendations?
 
Finally the temperature in the PNW got over 50* and with a full week of sun, I was able to get paint on my rocket. I've been waiting all winter to paint this. The aluminum finish came out better than expected.
IMG_20200322_123733.jpg
 
neil_w said:
It’s interesting to me that Estes prefers to keep its max body tube length to 18”, at least for LPR. Are there any exceptions to this?

I buy 34” tubes from Balsa Machining and use >18” tubes all the time.
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It might be an issue of keeping the packaging a standard size...or perhaps a cost per tube thing.
 
Four SQ11 1080p Cameras Being Tested In This 3D Printed Spacecraft For Model Rocketry
According to the "The All-knowing God" by Raffaele Pettazzoni, the name Osiris means "many-eyed". Here we are testing four SQ11 1080p cameras in a 3 inch diameter, 3D printed spacecraft for a model rocket, aptly named "Osiris". This is an attempt to capture videos from multiple fields of view in order to stitch them into panoramic videos and images. While it doesn't quite turn out as expected, the experience gained thus far is very helpful towards future success. Get some tips on adding 'Picture in Picture' tracks to videos in Vegas Movie Studio. Also see how to convert MOV files to MP4 in Avidemux. This includes using the resize filter to modify the aspect ratio to meet the needs of this project.
#SQ11 #1080p #ModelRocket #3DPrinted #TinkerCAD
 
Dry fit the Cherokee-H motor mount and noted a few spots that need adjustment.

All plywood parts (rings and fins) are laser cut and need the bonding surfaces lightly sanded to remove the scorch to assembly but first I need to give the motor tube attention as it has a glassine surface. Typically I rough sand and pin-hole the glue contact areas so the adhesive can soak into the fiber. THEN I’ll dry fit again and sand as needed.

Now a question: This kit features a baffle...a coupler with 2 bulkheads with drilled holes that contains a stainless steel kitchen scrubber. I’m considering coating the baffle elements with epoxy and high temperature or header paint. Overkill?
 
Don't coat the steel scrubber; steel handles high temperature and burning bits much better than epoxy. I don't know about the bulkheads but I doubt that it's necessary. If you do it, be sure to sand off/mask off areas that will be glued, i.e., the edge and outer quarter inch or so of each bulkhead, for epoxy fillets.
 
o1d_dude said:
It might be an issue of keeping the packaging a standard size...or perhaps a cost per tube thing.
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+1. Keeping the package under a certain standard size reduces shipping costs.
Looks like Estes believes coupling tubes together is more cost efficient than one long tube when you factor in the shipping.

BTW here's what I wrapped up last night:
0323200525[1].jpg
SDI (Stellar Dimensions Inc.) Gyro Nomo.
Picked up some vintage SDI kits a while ago on EBay.
Canted fins, square body, all wood construction.
Sharpied the finish thinking the laser etched markings would show through, but they're barely visible.
Might go ahead and shoot gloss paint over it later.
Instructions say to use the "teflon ring" to retain the motor but none found in the bag.
I'll think of something.
Stay safe!:ghosty:
 
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prfesser said:
Don't coat the steel scrubber; steel handles high temperature and burning bits much better than epoxy. I don't know about the bulkheads but I doubt that it's necessary. If you do it, be sure to sand off/mask off areas that will be glued, i.e., the edge and outer quarter inch or so of each bulkhead, for epoxy fillets.
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Didn’t realize my question could be interpreted that I was asking if I should coat the scrubber! No worries...not planning on that.

I asked because I remember QQuake2K coating his baffles and wondered if that was necessary. Probably does no harm.
 
Last amraam canard went on. Cleaned up brass shear plates with dremal and tapped the holes, chased with CA, and tapped again.
 
elidynys said:
I'm thinking about doing a scratch build, but I'm not sure what to use for my airframe, I'm thinking either thinwall PVC or maybe a poster tube. Now that I have a lathe, I can turn my own nosecone. The motor will be a G impulse. Any recommendations?
Click to expand...

Poster tube hands down.

PVC is not a good body tube or coupler material
 
Spent a bunch of time with Solidworks 2014 since I am off work today (and for a while maybe) designing a custom dual deploy bay for my PSII Argent and Ventris kits, as soon as the 3D printer is done printing its current job I will see if the inner section fits the transition. The unit is designed for the Eggtimer Quark and the Missleworks Screw Switch, beneath the sled is a battery box for a Turnigy 300mah 2S Lipo. Still learning my way around SW but getting better.
Mk2 wSwitch Ventris Argent AvBay Sled 1point25spacing.JPG Ventris Argent AvBay.JPG Ventris Argent Large Bulkhead Plate 1point25spacing.JPG Ventris Argent Small Bulkhead Plate 1point25spacing.JPG
 
Nytrunner said:
Poster tube hands down.

PVC is not a good body tube or coupler material
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Yeah, I read around a little more, and that's basically what I found I saw a video of a guy who used PVC and that's why I considered it. But then you add the risk of shrapnel should you experience a CATO.
 
There was a guy who used it for his L3 rocket, but he also had 2 engineering notebooks full of calculations and test results to go along with it.

I think he doublewalled the airframe and used triple thick couplers. That was more of a "What is necessary to make this work" exercise than a "I will use this material because it is inexpensive"


Mailing tubes, plywood, and a turned nosecone can get you a long way for little cost (the motor, electronics, recovery, and misc hardware will make up for it)
 
elidynys said:
I'm thinking about doing a scratch build, but I'm not sure what to use for my airframe, I'm thinking either thinwall PVC or maybe a poster tube. Now that I have a lathe, I can turn my own nosecone. The motor will be a G impulse. Any recommendations?
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I've used the center cardboard core of plotter paper rolls. I worked at a college as an IT guy and we had an old 42" HP Plotter. When a roll of paper was used up I'd grab the cardboard tube otherwise it would have been thrown in the trash. I've got a few to make something with. :)
 
Ejection charge cooling mesh setup

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Hmm, and the pressure drop through that isn't prohibitive? I know the old trick of holding a screen over a candle, but never thought about how it would work with pressure behind it... I'm kinda new to these more advanced rocketry tricks, my experience is all with Estes-style "whoosh-pop-drop" stuff.
 

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