A+ Quality Finish

Thats an amazing look for the viper in my op

Too bad it didn't stay. I swear I've seen a similar pattern on the ceiling of an otherwise boring living room.

I was thinking that with such a draggy finish you could fly bigger motors! (Plus it did look pretty cool!)

Was that a vinyl wrap or just individually applied decals?


best of luck with the next try!

Seems like clear coats are a hit or a miss, regardless of what you use. I stopped using Rustoleum color paints completely and went to Montana paints (much easier to work with, plus winter and weather proof). Someone told me to use Future/Pledge but I can never seem to get that crap to lay on nicely, regardless of how I apply it.

Arsenal78 said:

Seems like clear coats are a hit or a miss, regardless of what you use. I stopped using Rustoleum color paints completely and went to Montana paints (much easier to work with, plus winter and weather proof).

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Not just clear coats - I have had "success" obtaining similar results about 10% of the time with:
- multi-layer Krylon and Rustoleum "sparkle" paints
- enemel on top of primer layers (same brand)
- black roll pattern enamel on top of white enamel layer (e.g.: Sat V).
- clear coat in top of paint (same brand)

I used to blame that on ambient temps, humidity, surface contamination, paint chemistry mis-match, cure time, and plain bad luck. After numerous experiments controlling for the first 5, the only remaining explanation is "bad luck", or rattle can paint quality control.

It just happens.

The only time it hasn't to me, yet, is when;
1). Spraying clear on colored fiber-glass or CF tubes. Perfect results 100% of the time.
2). Using Tamiya paints. But those are expensive and hard to source. Thus my sample size is way not statistically significant.

a

I like the look. Perfect for a reptile rocket!

Mailman said:

It’s rusto auto primer , rusto 2x gloss white, and then good ole standard rusto clear. Let it cure for over a month before I got to the clear. Just wanted to protect the decals. Oh well, I kind of like it

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Thanks for bringing this everyone's attention. I feel for you as painting can be a lot of work especially if you have to do it over. As I use Rust-Oleum paint and have not had this problem yet, would you mind indicating the paint numbers that are on the back of the cans such as 249088 FLAT GRAY PRIMER and 249090 GLOSS WHITE or what ever you have. Thanks.

Also, not sure that it matters but what is your airframe material?

I think this would be a good rocket to calculate a drag coefficient. Build the same model with a more conventional finish. Fly both models with the same engine designation. Compare peak altitudes. Book values for drag coefficient could be used for the conventionally finished rocket. Someone who is better at math than me could back calculate the drag coefficient based on the difference in altitude.