I will have my Prusa Mini on Monday. I can't wait to fire it up and print some stuff.
I will post a review.
I will post a review.
3D Printing Prusa Mini on the way
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Thank you for your (future) review, I have been interested if I should recommend this to people looking for a cheap printer.
So far, the reviews are positive even with a few hickups in the supply process.
You must have ordered IMMEDIATELY on the announcement. I was 4 days "late", so I'll probably see mine in a couple months. Glad they are shipping again.
Edit: Looks like I'm estimated to be "from Feb 20th"...not bad
Edit: Looks like I'm estimated to be "from Feb 20th"...not bad
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I ordered midway on day 2.
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Looks like a cool little machine. We await a hands-on review.
Monday it will arrive. Anyone have a filament or product they want reviewed?
The rumor/assumption that they had piles of kits waiting one part for completion must have been true for the burst of orders that apparently went out last week. Hope I’ll see mine by end of month.
I am sure it is.
Ok. I have had the printer since Monday and this is a fantastic step forward for Prusa. It has a smaller print bed 7x7x7 in inches. It is much faster than the Ender, Anticubic, and Mk3s. This thing is a burner and had the best quality prints I have seen. I hope they push this technology to the MK3 or MK4.
Great to hear. Can you still push the speed with PETG?
Update on PETG will come next week. I am still test printing with PLA.
Viperfixr
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Do you have it in an enclosure? Any mods?
Thank you for sharing, as there’s little feedback out yet.
I just received it Monday. No mods yet.
Enclosure. Not yet. I am thing about putting it in an Ikea Sektion.
Enclosure. Not yet. I am thing about putting it in an Ikea Sektion.
patelldp
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After 2 years of CR-10 usage (currently have 3 running), I broke down and bought a MK3S with MMU2. I almost bought a mini...maybe that will be my next purchase?
I need reliability and high volume...the CR-10 just doesn't provide that long term.
I need reliability and high volume...the CR-10 just doesn't provide that long term.
You will not regret it. I will buy an MMU next.
Chuck, I'd consider selling you my MMU. I don't think I'll go back to it.
It's a really cool piece of hardware but I don't think it's for me. It's really sensitive to retraction and tip quality; When it retracts to change filaments, the tip can get stringy which upsets the filament sensor in the MMU unit. I was intrigued by the ability to quickly change materials, don't care much for simply changing colors as I'm only printing rocket stuff, not figurines or whatever.
The only feature that I've retained, which I love, is the PTFE tube all the way to the extruder body. This tube, and an auto rewind spool, really help keep the filament organized.
It's a really cool piece of hardware but I don't think it's for me. It's really sensitive to retraction and tip quality; When it retracts to change filaments, the tip can get stringy which upsets the filament sensor in the MMU unit. I was intrigued by the ability to quickly change materials, don't care much for simply changing colors as I'm only printing rocket stuff, not figurines or whatever.
The only feature that I've retained, which I love, is the PTFE tube all the way to the extruder body. This tube, and an auto rewind spool, really help keep the filament organized.
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Be sure you understand how the MMU works before you undertake this. I added one to my MK3 (doing the MK3S/MMU2S upgrades simultaneously) and I think it's just too finicky. It's cool that you can print in 5 colors, but all I really want is to print with supports.
A friend of my upgraded his second machine so he didn't lose the reliability for long prints.
Thanks. I have looked at for a year. I understand it but also appreciate the suggestion.
I'm at almost 16 km of filament (~200 days of print time) on my Mk2S with little maintenance required. I'm about to put the third set of bearings on the Y-axis (I did the Y-axis rods at the first bearing change too), and my 3rd PEI sheet. Aside from that, it has only been nozzle replacements. I've also done 40h prints without issue (other than a thunderstorm that took out the power once). A good Prusa is an absolute workhorse.
patelldp
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Perfect! I'd guesstimate that my oldest CR-10 has 250-300 days of printing on it, second is 150-200, third is relatively new. I've done several hot-end swaps, but most recently replaced all fans and carriage wheels. The wheels are what made me swear a lot...it's a horrible design. I think I can do a linear rail system for ~$30 per printer...that may be the ticket. Beyond that, I'm looking at adding the second z-axis stepper/lead screw which is ~$70 per printer. Flexible steel sheet build surface with PEI coating is ~$80 per printer and would maximize the capability.
This stuff adds up, especially when it's x3. Those upgrades are for quality, but only the linear rails will increase reliability. It will be nice to hit print and have high confidence that you're not coming downstairs to a clogged nozzle.
The shipping delay is working for Prusa. I just added the filament sensor to my order, AFTER I checked to make sure it wouldn't change my spot in line. Of course, I'll be living in an apartment for 3 months while my house is being renovated, so I'm not sure how much playing with it I'm going to be able to do. At home the printer is in the garage/shop as per agreement with "She who must be obeyed".
If you are ordering, do not skip the filament sensor. Well worth the cost.
Also, the garage is a good idea. These things have been known to catch fire.
Yep, in the garage with a smoke detector above the bench and a fire extinguisher on the wall about 10 ft away (next to the door from the inside of the house). That said, the Prusa has some safety features that protect against some of the most common reasons these things catch fire. Specifically, if a part doesn't come up to temperature fast enough, dips too suddenly, or goes out of a set range once reaching stable temp then the entire print aborts instead of pumping in more power relentlessly. I found this out after I changed the PEI sheet. When I put the printer back together I didn't put fresh thread lock on the brace that the wire goes into the heated bed. Over time the screw worked loose, and the wire started to wiggle as the bed moved. Eventually the wire frayed, and developed only intermittent contact with the bed. The bed heated up fine, but as the print went the temp of the bed fluctuated until it went out of range, (+/- 4 deg C I think). At that point the print error-ed out, and pointed the finger at the bed. It didn't take long to find the loose brace, and frayed wires. I'm glad it didn't just keep ramping the power or going along out of range until the wire snapped and/or shorted.
Oe piece of advice: Regularly check your power connections to make sure they are not loose.
Truth!
I found the mini to print slightly faster than the MK3s.
Any guesses why? I print mostly PETG at about 40-50mm/s on a 0.4 nozzle. My understanding is that this is kind of a material limitation, not a hardware limitation. It wants to cool slowly with no fan, so for the smaller stuff that I usually print, the last layer is still too warm if I go much faster. I get sagging and inconsistent layer thickness and width.
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