Reloadable casings

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Onebadhawk
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CABB1C28-D4F3-44D7-8666-3851336E1637.jpeg I fly AeroTech and Loki cases mostly. Just bought CTI 24mm 3grain and 6grain cases to fly more powerful 24mm than AeroTech offers. I used to build motors the night before the launch but found I never got to fly them all so now I almost exclusively build right before I launch on the field. I use a wooden cutting board with a ‘meat juice channel’ that runs around the outside to keep everything where it needs to be.
 
Ah! The joys of building on the field!

Used to do it all the time. Actually watched a flyer (who shall not be named) assemble an Aerotech 24mm RMS motor with a lit cigarette dangling outta his mouth.

His nickname was highly appropriate.
 
OK, so I'm the OP. Loki sounds like a great way to go because of no hazmat on some motors ( thanks Mikey and Andrew) and other reasons. I went to their website and now if confused. They talk about different nozzles with different angles. Can anyone suggest what I should get to get started with them on some 38mm reloads? Also it's not clear to me if its possible to use spacers on there hardware so a person doesnt have to buy a separate case for each grain configuration.
 
The reloads should list what nozzle they require. I don't believe Loki uses spacers.

An email or call should clear this up quickly for you.
 
No spacer system with Loki. You could make some and fly experimental.

For the Loki 38 hardware the nozzles are graphite and re-used (clean after each firing), they are marked in #xx, this is throat diameter in 64ths of a inch.

When you buy the case: 38/120 38/240 38/480 38/740 the reloads for each case will use the nozzle that comes with the case, unless a specific nozzle is needed for that reload, then they say use X nozzle and you just need to buy that nozzle to use that reload.

https://lokiresearch.com/page/Tech_Info

~John
 
With AT and CTI the nozzles are disposable and come with the reload. Loki nozzles are part of the hardware and are used with every reload for that case; there are exceptions with some of the bigger specialty motors maybe. You just have to clean it. The slag comes off pretty easily actually. For the smaller loads though one nozzle is good for every reload for that particular set of hardware. When looking on the Loki site, look at the second to last column "Hardware". That will tell you which set of hardware you need. Buy the commercial set and it will have the commercial sized nozzle. Which is the one you want for any Loki reload you buy from a vendor.

It may be easier to check out a vendor that has them listed by hardware sets.

https://csrocketry.com/rocket-motors/loki-research/38mm.html

I'll go ahead and recommend the 38/240 with the H144W to get you started. Get a good pair of snap ring pliers too. Knipex seems to be the most popular. A small precision screw driver set is helpful cleaning the slag from nozzle, use a small flat head like a chisel...GENTLY THOUGH. Helps get O-rings off as well.

Chris sells motor cleaning brushes as well. You can cut the loop off of on the end and chuck it in a drill, or just use elbow grease.

Like John mentioned, there are no spacers for Loki but you can make your own, or maybe AT or CTI will fit, and fly the thing as experimental at Tripoli Research launches. You have to be TRA L2 for that. You would still have to have the appropriate nozzle for the reload. Meaning if you want to fly a 38/240 in a 38/480 case then you would have to have the 38/240 (#16) nozzle and the appropriate sized spacer(s). You would save a little bit of money, but, again, it would be considered experimental or research, and would most assuredly void the warranty.
 
Gonna pipe in here with past experience with Kosdon and AMW (Kosdon East back in the day) snap-ring motors:

Knipex is great but expensive. I strongly recommend something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/precision-snap-ring-pliers-8-pc-63841.html which will take care of the smaller as well as the larger snap rings.

The ones that you change out the tips are not very reliable. Harbor Freight's Icon brand has been compared favorably with Snap-On, Matco, etc.
 
Charlie,
Loki Research Hardware and loads just couldn't be simpler..

The 38 / 120 Motor complete is for all of the "G" loads..
The 38 / 240 Motor complete is for all of the "H" loads..
The 38 / 480 Motor complete is for all of the "I" loads..
The 38 / 740 Motor complete is for all of the "J" loads, listed for that case size..
The 38 / 1200 Motor complete is for all of the "J and K" loads listed for that case size..

The hardware comes complete with it's correct nozzle for the loads that are for that case..

There are only two exceptions with the nozzles and they are clearly listed with the loads..

There is a load for the 38 / 740 hardware ( the J 474 CT ) that uses the #28 nozzle that comes with the 38 / 1200 case...

There is a load for the 38 / 1200 hardware ( the K 627 LR ) that uses the #25 nozzle that is in stock and would have to be purchased separately...

I hope laying it out in this way makes it easier to see that Loki isn't complicated at all..

Build one and fly one for the first time,,
you'll be hooked..

Teddy
 
Onebadhawk said:
Charlie,
Loki Research Hardware and loads just couldn't be simpler..

The 38 / 120 Motor complete is for all of the "G" loads..
The 38 / 240 Motor complete is for all of the "H" loads..
The 38 / 480 Motor complete is for all of the "I" loads..
The 38 / 740 Motor complete is for all of the "J" loads, listed for that case size..
The 38 / 1200 Motor complete is for all of the "J and K" loads listed for that case size..

The hardware comes complete with it's correct nozzle for the loads that are for that case..

There are only two exceptions with the nozzles and they are clearly listed with the loads..

There is a load for the 38 / 740 hardware ( the J 474 CT ) that uses the #28 nozzle that comes with the 38 / 1200 case...

There is a load for the 38 / 1200 hardware ( the K 627 LR ) that uses the #25 nozzle that is in stock and would have to be purchased separately...

I hope laying it out in this way makes it easier to see that Loki isn't complicated at all..

Build one and fly one for the first time,,
you'll be hooked..

Teddy
Click to expand...

And ... the I110 for the 38/480 requires the #16 nozzle (which is the nozzle that comes with the 38/240 assembly.

I enjoy the Loki hardware and Teddy and Scott are both great to work with!

Sean
 
dinoburb said:
And ... the I110 for the 38/480 requires the #16 nozzle (which is the nozzle that comes with the 38/240 assembly.

I enjoy the Loki hardware and Teddy and Scott are both great to work with!

Sean
Click to expand...

Ha,,
You got me, lol..
I generally didn't stock the moonburners, until now..
I forgot about that one..

Thank you Sean..

Teddy
 
Just had my AeroTech G64 blow the ejection charge after leaving the pad... when I run out of AeroTech casings I’m done with AeroTech.
6376335E-095B-47FF-8E36-75DD1A7C4916.jpeg. The second photo is the other “Event” of the day... 0/2
 
Philip Tiberius D. said:
Just had my AeroTech G64 blow the ejection charge after leaving the pad... when I run out of AeroTech casings I’m done with AeroTech.
View attachment 402796. The second photo is the other “Event” of the day... 0/2
Click to expand...

To have that happen, you had to have assembled something in the delay wrong. I've flown dozens of G64's without issue. I would disassemble the motor and delay and double check all the o-rings for the correct placement. Also check the delay spacer location. The spacer should have been towards the propellant. AT has a lot of fun loads. It would be a shame to limit yourself to just one flavor...
 
Last edited:
Philip Tiberius D. said:
Just had my AeroTech G64 blow the ejection charge after leaving the pad... when I run out of AeroTech casings I’m done with AeroTech.
View attachment 402796. The second photo is the other “Event” of the day... 0/2
Click to expand...
Sounds like a common problem when people put the delay spacer towards the BP instead of towards the propellant.
...
I had an experienced rocketeer show me how to build the reloads. Then I came up with my own system. Then I built tons of reloads and had hella fun. Now, I teach my system to others because I'm the experienced rocketeer. ... That's kinda how the hobby works. It's rocket science, after all.
 
jd2cylman said:
To have that happen, you had to have assembled something in the delay wrong. I've flown dozens of G64's without issue. I would disassemble the motor and delay and double check all the o-rings for the correct placement. Also check the delay spacer location. The spacer should have been towards the propellant. AT has a lot of fun loads. It would be a same to limit yourself to just one flavor...
Click to expand...
Just “burned up” (pardon the pun) that I’ve only had failures on AeroTech motors... this 29 and a 38 that basically did the same thing and I’ve assembled and flown a fair number without problems. I probably won’t completely stop using them but am not in any big rush to replace the parts and will keep funding Cesaroni
 
I've had a 29/40-120 load do that as well...it was an F something. That was my only failure with AT.
Had a Loki do that as well, no delay spacer to install wrong. Still haven't figured out what happened.
2 for 2 with bad experiences on CTI. One blew up on the pad, the other got stuck in the rocket.
I'll trade ya my CTI for your AT. :D
 
rocketcharlie said:
I just ordered a complete set of Loki 38mm hardware. I love rocketry, but damn this is an expensive hobby
Click to expand...
You will love Loki. Cleaning the nozzle can be slightly challenging at first but take it out as soon as you can, use a blue shop towel or similar, put it on your finger and press and turn it in. You’ll basically be twisting the slag off. The 38/120 is a fun case and Aerotech cannot beat it. Loki motors are slightly more expensive in a few areas but J motors are cheaper :)
 
John Taylor said:
To me I like building motors. Buying a system where everything is already assembled is like buying a ready to fly rocket.
Takes the fun out of it.
Click to expand...

+1 for sure..
Me too..
I have absolutely nothing against CTI.
Just not my cup of tea I guess..
I have always been an Aerotech fan..
Since finding Loki,
I have never looked back..

Teddy

Correction..
I built a rocket I've named Europa Express..
3" airframe with a 54mm central motor mount,
and 2 -- 38mm outboard motor motor mounts..
I like to airstart Aerotech Blackjacks or Fastjacks
in the 2-- 38mm mounts because of their contrast against the sky.
( particularly when the sky has a white tone to it )..

So I have looked back..
A little, lol..
 
Buy Rocket Motors is my vendor. Robert is a fantastic supplier. He is local to me.
He stocks Aerotech and they are all I've ever used.
Aerotech is a great company with outstanding customer service.
I am an Aerotech guy for sure.
 
I use both but I will say this, I wrenched on BMW, Ducati and Honda motorcycles back in the day. All are wonderful machines but BMW and Ducati and the general consensus among the mechanics was BMW and Ducati were complex for the sake of complexity. Honda was (from a racing standpoint) simple. I see parallels with AeroTech and Cesaroni...
 

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