What did you do rocket wise today?

the model rocket show
SilicdyneTRF
The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Finished assembly of a Semroc Centaur (Centuri Repro).....Now I've got to decide which to build next......Mars Snooper, Scrambler (changing from 3 engine cluster to "D"/"E" power or an Estes Mercury Redstone......
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0081.jpg
    IMG_0081.jpg
    98.9 KB · Views: 40
Spent a couple of days building Legos with my daughter.

szqrcjS.jpg
 
AeroAggie said:
Spent a couple of days building Legos with my daughter.
Click to expand...
Nice perspective on that shot.
GrouchoDuke said:
That. Is. Awesome.
Click to expand...
Are. You. Related. To. William. Shatner?;)

Started a new build this morning.
1229190449.jpg
Newest release from NewWay at eRockets.
Ordered stuff on the 24th, received on the 27th.
Faster than Speedy Gonzalez. Andale, andale, arriba, arriba, eppa, eppa, eehaw!
Adios, Senores.
 
Last edited:
My very first rocket I built and flew was the Challenger 2. Somebody on TRF mentioned that the E2X Generic kit is the same rocket and I saw one at Hobby Lobby for under $8, so I picked one up:

IMG_20191229_170428 - 2.jpg

Now I just need to bug Stickershock about the possibility of making some decals matching the original Challenger 2 markings.
 
Despite tonight's crushing snow and falling ice, the handbook arrived today. Now that I've finished the NAR Member Guidebook, this is my next educational read.

IMG_8637.JPG
 
Tobor said:
Finally completed this sim I started months ago.
And a big shout out to SteelyEyed for the original creation of this beauty!

View attachment 402262
Click to expand...
Brett would be pleased, here is a pic of myself and Brett with another of his creations the Nuclear Sledgehammer (at SodBlaster 2 rhis year 2019), iirc he said the Nuclear Crowbar required an obscene amount of noseweight.20190831_133855(0).jpeg
 
rharshberger said:
Brett would be pleased, here is a pic of myself and Brett with another of his creations the Nuclear Sledgehammer (at SodBlaster 2 rhis year 2019), iirc he said the Nuclear Crowbar required an obscene amount of noseweight.View attachment 402264
Click to expand...
Nice pic! Yeah, I followed your build thread on that one. And yes, you are correct about the excessive nose weight. My rendition will require over 60 ounces for an AT L1090W. Note that it drops to 28oz. for an AT I327DM.
 
Tobor said:
Nice pic! Yeah, I followed your build thread on that one. And yes, you are correct about the excessive nose weight. My rendition will require over 60 ounces for an AT L1090W. Note that it drops to 28oz. for an AT I327DM.
Click to expand...
Someday I plan on down scaling the Sledgehammer and Crowbar to 2.6" and 29mm motors, as MPR and L1 motors are my "bread and butter" range with occasional L2 and L3 flights.
 
Don't know what I did wrong. I was trying to paint a rocket flouresent green. I have had success previously doing same. I used all Rust-Oleum paints. I started by filling the spirals and sanded, then sprayed with grey build up primer. Waited 2 days, sanded. Then waited 2 more days. Sprayed with white primer waited 2 days lightly sanded. Waited 6 more days. Then I went for the Green. When I sprayed the first tack mist coat it looked fine. After 8 minutes I sprayed a slightly heavier coat intending to spray a third light coat to finish but after 8 minutes I went back out to the garage it had wrinkled!!! #^&**%$#. I thought I had learned what I needed to do to keep this from happening but
NOOOOO! What could I have done differently other than using a different brand of paint. Note: I have had many great results with Rusty florescent paint jobs after learning the hard way.
 
I would try to seal the tube surface ( after gapfilling) with a laminating epoxy. If wiped on with a cloth that is kept drier than soaking wet you should be able to saturate the surface and make it reasonably resilient to water and a lot of other solvents, once it has cured .
Just make sure that the paint you intend to use adheres well to epoxy and give the tube a light sanding before painting.// Erik
 
John Taylor said:
Don't know what I did wrong. I was trying to paint a rocket flouresent green. I have had success previously doing same. I used all Rust-Oleum paints. I started by filling the spirals and sanded, then sprayed with grey build up primer. Waited 2 days, sanded. Then waited 2 more days. Sprayed with white primer waited 2 days lightly sanded. Waited 6 more days. Then I went for the Green. When I sprayed the first tack mist coat it looked fine. After 8 minutes I sprayed a slightly heavier coat intending to spray a third light coat to finish but after 8 minutes I went back out to the garage it had wrinkled!!! #^&**%$#. I thought I had learned what I needed to do to keep this from happening but
NOOOOO! What could I have done differently other than using a different brand of paint. Note: I have had many great results with Rusty florescent paint jobs after learning the hard way.
Click to expand...


I have had HUGE issues recently spraying Rusto paints over Rusto primers. Their 2X paint series is especially problematic. Things like variations in temp and humidity between coats can cause problems.

You said you are painting in your garage on different days, what were the air conditions like? Higher or lower humidity, temperature?
Did you warm your paint cans before spraying? Did you lightly sand between coats?
 
I used the methods I've used many times successfully. I've done the exact method and not had any issues. I had lots of issues first trying florescent paint. Learning you cant rush the time between primer and paint. Can says 48hrs. That is bull. I've had to sand and
re due job more than once. Now I wait a week at least. Haven't had any more problems since I learned to wait. Now I give it a week between steps with all painting. I know florescent paint can be especially troublesome so I have been prudent.
 
John Taylor said:
I used the methods I've used many times successfully. I've done the exact method and not had any issues. I had lots of issues first trying florescent paint. Learning you cant rush the time between primer and paint. Can says 48hrs. That is bull. I've had to sand and
re due job more than once. Now I wait a week at least. Haven't had any more problems since I learned to wait. Now I give it a week between steps with all painting. I know florescent paint can be especially troublesome so I have been prudent.
Click to expand...


Yeah. I've waited as long as a few weeks between coats, and still have issues with the rusto 2x paint.
 
Assembling 3 Eggtimer TRS transmitters. The 13x9" baking dish is a bit small for 3 of them as the angles with the soldering iron get a bit elevated.

There are downsides to "mass-production" of these kits - keeping everything staged for production flow requires more space on the kitchen table than my wife would generally allow. Fortunately, dinner was at another house last night, so she allowed. Getting every joint soldered when adding 9 of the 103 resisters requires a thorough QA check when I think I am complete. It seems that things can get overlooked due to the way-up-close perspective of the magnifier/light mounted on my head.

Two of these will go into a 4" MD scratch-build project, and one into a 38MM GoDevil.
 

Similar threads

NTP2
What do you do (or did) for a living?
7 8 9
Replies
244
Views
8K
Cosmo77
Cosmo77
KenECoyote
Is it really a model rocket if you don't launch it?
4 5 6
Replies
158
Views
6K
bjphoenix
B
T
First-time UK Rocketeer looking for help!
Replies
5
Views
304
LD124
L
ljwilley
What do you think of my V2 rocket?
Replies
19
Views
2K
ljwilley
ljwilley
M
Free Almost Free Model Rocket Building Service
Replies
1
Views
989
mh9162013
M

Latest posts

Back
Top