Lvl One Rocket

I've been looking at possible choices for a level one rocket. I've found several that catch my eye but I am surprised to find they have 29mm mounts and are cardboard type tubes. Is that pretty common for an "entry level" HPR rocket?

Added: I should have mentioned I was looking in the 2.26 to 2.6 range.

-Bob

Bob, there are several 29mm motors that are high power. A lot of H motors, and a few I motors in the 29mm size. And many HPR kits that are cardboard & wood, even for level 2! Cardboard is stronger than you might think.

Your question comes up a lot. Search this forum, and you'll find a few threads on the subject. Some will suggest their preferred favorites, others will offer advice on the choices available. It is your choice, for what you want to fly, and what goals you have planned.. Everyone will tell you: "keep it simple" for your L1. Keep it light, and in sight. Know what the numbers mean, and know how to sim a design.

start with these threads:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/good-first-rocket-for-l1-certification.155939/

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/go-devil-54-for-l1-l2-cert-questions.155618/page-2

You could L1 with an MD CF needle, a 6in x 6ft tubefin, or virtually anything in between.

What do you want to build & fly?

Bob, I did both 1 & 2 with the same cardboard and paper tube rocket. MMT is cardboard, fins are ply and LOC paper tube. They are very strong. Rode a J250 to about 6000'.

Like others I did my L 1 and L2 with rockets made with unglassed Loc tube - see my signature..what I would say is we all use terms like 'paper' and 'cardboard' when referring to these rockets (sometimes perhaps with a kind of knowing humour) but IMHO the terms are a little misleading to the uninitiated - you could easily form the impression the material was flimsy or maybe the sort of corrugated stuff supermarket boxes are made of. In fact Loc tubing is very different than that: tightly wound, very strong and it would perhaps more accurately be described as 'fibre board' or a similar term.
One thing I would recommend is (once you've built the rocket) sealing the inside areas of the tubes that will be exposed with CA or slightly diluted aliphatic resin glue (so-called carpenter's yellow glue). Once dry it's easier to wipe way ejection residue etc that way.
Good luck with your cert.

Have a look at the Binder Design rockets. They are cardboard and some fly quite nicely on up to L motors. Cardboard is a bit easier to work with than fiberglass.

My only comment would be regardless of what you decide in that size I would add rail buttons. Many clubs no longer allow H impulse motor with launch lugs. You could also use the glue on rail guides from Apogee.

I like scale models. I was just looking at the Cosmodrome Nike Smoke and Black Brant VB. I was checking out the LOC 2.26 BBX. I like the looks of the Aerotech Astrobee but feel that would be almost like assembling a Estes E2X rocket. I like some scale looking rockets like the Madcow Pike--I wish they made it in F-H size.

I've thought about ordering in some Estes PSII parts to build a 3" Patriot. Yes, there are some kits out there but they seem to be missing the boat tail...

I've been to several of the local launches and have yet to see a rail. What size would be used on a 2.26 to 2.6 diameter rocket?

-Bob

10-10 size rail. the 15 size is for larger rockets, maker beam is for smaller with mini rail buttons. I have a 13mm that uses the small rail.

My L1 rocket is a LOC Iris 3"and my motor is a 29mm H135. That being said, the mount is a 38mm so I got a 29mm adapter for it. I, too, like scale-ish rockets. LOC has a few nice ones.

I had planned on certifying last summer but life got so busy it didn't happen. 2020 L1 is definitely going to happen.

Same as most of the other comments above. Did both L1 and L2 with a 3" LOC Iris. I built it to be dual-deploy from the start, and flew it that way for both certs. While I did use a friction fit for the joints, about the only thing I would change would be getting used to shear pins a little earlier.
I did have one occasion where the main deployed early in the descent due to the fit not being as tight as needed. Not terrible, but the recovery took a bit longer. Shear pins would have prevented this. Otherwise, you can't go wrong with paper and wood. It is more forgiving during the build than fiberglass, albeit not as durable (generally).

Get yourself a Binder Design Excel with a 38mm mount.adapt down to 29mm and fly it on a H128. Very tough rocket capable of high power and not expensive.

There's no shame in getting your Cert on a simple rocket. The goal is to Cert and do it safely. The more complex, the more likely that something will fowl you up resulting in a failed attempt. Remember the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). AFTER you Cert, then you can go nuts (within reason).

+1 on Binder Designs kits.

For me, I used Binder Design parts for my scratchbuild (except for what I did myself (fins) or contracted out (nosecone)). However, I took something from the Apogee L1 guide video to heart, I went with a larger diameter rocket and designed it to stay low. That way I could recover it quickly and not have to worry about losing sight of it.

Another plug for Binder. I did my L2 with a 4" Excel DD. My cert flight was on a J (see my sig), but the rocket's shakedown flight was on an I that could have easily been an L1 cert. I build mine kind of heavy, but it could fly on an H as well.

OverTheTop said:

Have a look at the Binder Design rockets. They are cardboard and some fly quite nicely on up to L motors. Cardboard is a bit easier to work with than fiberglass.

Click to expand...

+1 BINDER Rockets! I am very impressed with the kit quality and all inclusiveness. Very stout. My Excel was assembled with a 38mm mount and can handle a variety of motors. Easily can fly for Level one and two certifications. Just follow the assembly instructions to a t and you will have a great rocket.