MAC Hyper 54 L2 cert build

I like to put my switches on the sled so I don't have to bend the wires sliding the sled in and out or have a lot of slack in the wires. You get to the screw switches through the vent hole(s). It means making the holes a little bigger, but I haven't seen a convincing explanation yet for why that would be a bad thing. Obviously, pull pin switches accomplish the same thing with the small holes, but you have the other switches now. For either of these, you would have to index the sled to the coupler. I do that with a marker line to get it close enough.

Well I’m at bluff city electronics right now looking for stranded wire.

Bluff only sells thousand foot lengths and big industrial wires. If I can’t find stranded I’ll fly what I got I think... Don’t got time for eBay launch is Saturday guys. It’s local, use what I got, or scrap launch.

Andrew_ASC said:

Bluff only sells thousand foot lengths and big industrial wires. If I can’t find stranded I’ll fly what I got I think... Don’t got time for eBay launch is Saturday guys. It’s local, use what I got, or scrap launch.

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Home Depot maybe?

Andrew_ASC said:

Bluff only sells thousand foot lengths and big industrial wires. If I can’t find stranded I’ll fly what I got I think... Don’t got time for eBay launch is Saturday guys. It’s local, use what I got, or scrap launch.

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Home Depot offers jacketed cable by the foot. Just remove the jacket and you have good stranded wire:

(By-the-Foot) 22/2 Gray Stranded CU CL3R Shielded Security Cable

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204725140

Alright guys I dropped by NEA hobbies they had way thicker stranded wire which fits altimeters. I had them solder it looks and feels much better. Anyways gonna drive home.

-Leave the motor charge In as backup. At the very least, break the airframe apart and prevent ballistic reentry (or you will be digging it out of the clay like the last guy that darted in our field)
-Check the amount of powder that comes with the motor vs your airframe volume and adjust accordingly. (54mm motor has a sizeable charge, and you're sticking it in a minimum diameter body)

Andrew_ASC said:

View attachment 401120 Alright guys I dropped by NEA hobbies they had way thicker stranded wire which fits altimeters. I had them solder it looks and feels much better. Anyways gonna drive home.

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That looks MUCH better! After your launch, you may want to practice soldering. It isn’t rocket science (pun intended...) but it does take practice to get comfortable with this new skill.

g.pitts said:

That looks MUCH better! After your launch, you may want to practice soldering. It isn’t rocket science (pun intended...) but it does take practice to get comfortable with this new skill.

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Well contrary To looks. Fate whatever the Fook you want to call it. I learned 12 AWG stranded is too high resistance to switch power either Telemini or the RRC3. What’s weird is the solid mjg FireWire lights up beeps gets data yadda yada. F%#^^ me. Smallest NEA had was 12 AWG. They deal with like big arse R/C planes.

Got any extra RJ45 cables laying around? That like 22 or 24 gauge.

I plug the big nice looking wires in and sh*t goes dead go figure loooool.

What’s your power source?

Andrew_ASC said:

I plug the big nice looking wires in and sh*t goes dead go figure loooool.

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No way. There’s something wrong with either a solder connection, the switch, or (unlikely) your wire. Do you have a digital voltmeter for measuring resistance? I’d be curious to see what the wire-to-wire resistance is that you measure with the switch set to “on”. 20 or 22 gauge wire should be fine for what we do in the vast majority of our builds.

FireWire is 20 AWG. It’s just not stranded wire so it’s limited on how many times you can install avionics. Limit is ten. Guess it’ll work for this one flight. Electronics power up fine. Going to rip it out and replace after flight as a precaution against metal fatigue. Not exactly thrilled at this moment lol. Not going any thinner on wires tbh.

Looks like after HARA I’ll have to order stuff online. RSO can judge whether it should go or not.

Power source is 9V Duracell fresh outta the pack and also a 3.7 V lipo in range of 120-400 MAh.

g.pitts said:

No way. There’s something wrong with either a solder connection, the switch, or (unlikely) your wire. Do you have a digital voltmeter for measuring resistance? I’d be curious to see what the wire-to-wire resistance is that you measure with the switch set to “on”. 20 or 22 gauge wire should be fine for what we do in the vast majority of our builds.

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It’s 12 AWG and it’s too thick.

Andrew_ASC said:

It’s 12 AWG and it’s too thick.

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In a pinch, I would remove a few strands until you get something workable, but I missed this was 12 gauge wire... that’s HUGE.

The Home Depot option is still there for you.

have you checked the switch for go/nogo?

Switch is fine. It’s the AWG is causing me ARGHHH.

timbucktoo said:

Got any extra RJ45 cables laying around? That like 22 or 24 gauge.

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Cat 5/6 cable is usually 24 gauge, but the double-ended RJ45 Cat 5/6 patch cables use 28 gauge conductors if I’m not mistaken.

Andrew_ASC said:

Switch is fine. It’s the AWG is causing me ARGHHH.

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Okay, but I didn’t read your post that way.

That 20 minute Home Depot trip would resolve your issue. Just sayin’...

Figured out what I’m gonna do. Switch on primary alt. Twist and tape the backup RRC3 alt. FireWire twists beautifully for twist and tape. Now I think I see why that Crazy Jim fellow likes twist and tape so much lol.

If you want cheap wire that will work go to Home Depot or Lowe’s and buy 3’ plenum cat5e for $1

Meme worthy Av-bay for the win. Needs more zip ties. And yes there’s an RRC3 zip tied to back for extra lolz. Forum shriekers gonna shriek yo. Gravel Bay Version 1. #ElectricalDeathtrap

Every picture says a thousand words.

Yikes. Maybe you can borrow a JLCR from someone for the flight

Funny, that one orange zip tie triggers my OCD as much as the wiring.

Forum shrieking? Probably. Maybe some RSO shrieking, too.

Hey man, do yourself a favor and sketch out how much each ziptied component weighs at L2050LW gees.

Welp it fits. Not flying it on an L yet. Seen a popsicle stick and only electrical tape work on a L1 multistage. And an RSO cleared that. As long as stuff doesn’t shift I’m happy.

timbucktoo said:

Every picture says a thousand words.

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