Wildman's MACH 2 rocket

Rob702Martinez said:

Av bay revision #6
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Single deploy only? You are not using the nosecone to hold a parachute for head end dual deploy?

Streamer is about 16" from the av bay and main is held with cable cutters. Drogue charge separates and streamer comes out main fires the cable cutters for the main chute.

Rob702Martinez said:

Streamer is about 16" from the av bay and main is held with cable cutters. Drogue charge separates and streamer comes out main fires the cable cutters for the main chute.

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Gotcha.

May not be the highest altitude but it's the prettiest!!! This is before the final sand, cut and polish.

Exactly 4oz or 115g in weight for this paint job. That's nothing considering the materials and processes used. Matched the final weight on the sims. Extremely, highly polished. Need to get some sunlight pics next.

Got some photos of liftoff on Aerotech K805G and K456DM. Thanks Jim!

As cool as the sparky is, that green with the blue airframe looks awesome.

Great pictures! and nice looking rocket you have there

Those are some amazing pictures

My vote for the sparky. Both look great. Love it when flame is longer that the rocket.

In an effort to revive this thread, or if anyone is still looking on here for build tips, I am going to post my method of building the wildman mach 2...

I first got all the parts washed and cleaned off real good before deciding on how I would go about attaching the fins with the included fin jig.

I decided on just using a little duct tape and ca glue to hold and tack the jigs in place instead of using a set of threaded rods or something of that nature. I would post a picture of it but I kinda forgot to take one under the stress of fast curing proline epoxy as well as this being my first md build.

After that mess was over I was left with perfectly aligned fins. I proceeded to add small fillets of proline and then after it was fully cured I scuffed it up and made some jb weld original fillets with a 1/2 inch pvc pipe.


These were my first real fillets and this was definitely the hardest part of the build for me. Being 16 years old and having zero patience my brain was telling me ''look how good and thick that epoxy is just do them all in one go" and "they will be fine who cares about aesthetics'' so this will likely not be hard for you but it was a struggle for me. If you're wondering on how I made these fillets I just measured and carefully masked off the areas where I didn't want epoxy and at a medium speed pulled the fillets with the clean pvc pipe at a slight but exact angle so all of the fillets would be exact or close to it. After painfully waiting for the fillets to dry for a day I would repeat onto the next side until they were eventually all complete.

With the fillets sanded and cleaned up I moved onto fiberglass. Entering the realm of fiberglass is pretty daunting for some, me included, so instead of telling you what I used is the best I am going to tell you to read up for hours on all the forums to see what fits your projects needs. Think about this when looking for a resin and weave: What temperature is the rocket going to endure? What diameter is the rocket? How thick are the fins? What speed is the rocket going to fly and at what altitude is the rocket going to reach this speed? What is the terrain the rocket will land in?

With that said I chose to use fibre glast system 2000 epoxy and fibre glast 4oz weave fiberglass. I just used a single layer of tip to tip because the fins were already not going anywhere and two layers just didn't seem like it would add much strength after that. Now, if you are going to build this rocket and don't want to learn fiber glassing then don't. The mach 2 fin cans are stupid strong without any tip to tip. I only did this because the launch sites here in Colorado are pretty rocky and I also wanted to do some pretty fast flights as well as learn a new skill. Here are some pics of the preparation and layup:
To wet out the fiber glass I just used a couple disposable bristle brushes. You don't want to brush in too much or too little resin as that could mess with the weaves strength characteristics. Trimming the fiberglass is pretty easily done with a sharp razor once the fiberglass reaches the 'leather' or 'green' stage. For filling I opted to use this rust oleum automotive stuff that is high build and wet sandable. After wet sanding with 400 grit it was really smooth so moved onto painting. Here are the results:
My 16 year old brain failed to wait to get 2k clear so I used some glossy rust oleum stuff that is gonna have no problem melting and falling off from the motor casing temp alone but oh well. If you find your self in a position of not waiting for 2k clear just go to home depot and look for the automotive clear as it can withstand some decent temps. I did not and my rocket is gonna pay for it lol. I plan to fly it on an AT K270 first (unless I fell like a test flight with a pop can motor) and it sims to about 19K' agl and mach 1.4. I still am debating on using an aeropack md retainer with screws or friction fit with tape but right now I need help with GPS system suggestions. I am looking at the apogee simple gps tracker and the feather weight but the feather weight needs an ios system which I do not have. And yes I looked at eggtimers but they are out of stock for a while now due to a warehouse fire.

I think you did an admirable job on that fin can. Nicely done.

My vote on the tracker would be for the featherweight and grab yourself a cheap used iPhone off of eBay.

Getting a few altimeters and a tracker all in that coupler is a challenge but doable. I have an M2 myself.

Now go fly it fast and hard and report back.

BryRocket said:

I think you did an admirable job on that fin can. Nicely done.

My vote on the tracker would be for the featherweight and grab yourself a cheap used iPhone off of eBay.

Getting a few altimeters and a tracker all in that coupler is a challenge but doable. I have an M2 myself.

Now go fly it fast and hard and report back.

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Thank you! And I had the same thoughts about a used IPhone but my phone plan currently is only android. If it doesn't need cell service I'm all in. I also was wondering if the aluminum av bay lids would mess with the signal.

BryRocket said:

I think you did an admirable job on that fin can. Nicely done.

My vote on the tracker would be for the featherweight and grab yourself a cheap used iPhone off of eBay.

Getting a few altimeters and a tracker all in that coupler is a challenge but doable. I have an M2 myself.

Now go fly it fast and hard and report back.

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Here some pics of the av bay. Pardon my french but trying to fit a camera, rrc2+, and a gps tracker into something the size of a toilet paper roll tube was the biggest pain in the ass. It took me weeks of CAD and one to many prototypes to come up with something that works but I think I finally did it.
Fresh off the printer!

FWIW you don't need cellular service activated on the iphone for it to work.

Here is me cramming a few computers and a GPS in there. So far I've never had tracking issues with the aluminum bulkheads and its flown to 20k or so.

BryRocket said:

FWIW you don't need cellular service activated on the iphone for it to work.

Here is me cramming a few computers and a GPS in there. So far I've never had tracking issues with the aluminum bulkheads and its flown to 20k or so.
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That's definitely a clean ebay and I like the switch configuration a lot. I thought about not using a camera but I definitely wanted the rockets pov which is likely costing me a back up system. Thanks for the info on the av bay lids too. Great work!

Rocketman_dan said:

That's definitely a clean ebay and I like the switch configuration a lot. I thought about not using a camera but I definitely wanted the rockets pov which is likely costing me a back up system. Thanks for the info on the av bay lids too. Great work!

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You could fly once w/o camera and make sure you got the links worked out, then do a follow-up flight with a camera

BryRocket said:

FWIW you don't need cellular service activated on the iphone for it to work.

Here is me cramming a few computers and a GPS in there. So far I've never had tracking issues with the aluminum bulkheads and its flown to 20k or so.

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Nice. Are you using lengths of threaded rod to hold it all together? Any issues with the Featherweight GPS lying between two metal rods? I have a similar Mach2 ebay in the works, and I am considering nylon threaded rod.

Dan , I would suggest you make your own thread . One so everybody knows its a new build and not the same one from almost 4 years ago , and two because you are doing a nice job.

Buckeye said:

Nice. Are you using lengths of threaded rod to hold it all together? Any issues with the Featherweight GPS lying between two metal rods? I have a similar Mach2 ebay in the works, and I am considering nylon threaded rod.

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Yessir. Two full length metal threaded rods. Not ideal but so far I haven’t had issues. It’s probably flown 10-12 times and I’ve never had tracking problems.

Rocketman_dan said:

Thank you! And I had the same thoughts about a used IPhone but my phone plan currently is only android. If it doesn't need cell service I'm all in. I also was wondering if the aluminum av bay lids would mess with the signal.

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For the featherweight, no plan is needed, just the phone. I have an iphone 6S that is in good condition (no cracked screen) that I would sell to you for $50 if you need one.

Yeah, Android user myself. However I picked up a used iphone5 and have been using that with the featherweight unit. No service required. You do need the ground station, obviously, but the ground station communications via bluetooth with the phone and the app on the phone.

I just wish they had a google (or I guess apple in this case) map option in addition to their location finder.

Crazyrocket said:

For the featherweight, no plan is needed, just the phone. I have an iphone 6S that is in good condition (no cracked screen) that I would sell to you for $50 if you need one.

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Joshua Smith said:

You could fly once w/o camera and make sure you got the links worked out, then do a follow-up flight with a camera

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That's a good idea and I think I am going to do that. I also found some hardware that would allow me to just barely run the altimeters stacked.

I didn't see it mentioned, but the camera lens bay opening, if no quartz or glass like window is used to make minimal extra air entry an issue, then this can affect correct baropressure readings and possibly cause a dysfunctional flight. If this is the case, then either add the window (e.g. see g. pitts recent posts on his camera-avbay) or recalculate the maximum vent hole cunulative size that enables your altimeters to function accurately. Alternatively, I prefer mounting cameras outside the AV-bay such as in the nose cone coupler or in the booster tube where altimeters are not a factor. BTW, what camera are you using?
Good luck,
Fred

fms said:

I didn't see it mentioned, but the camera lens bay opening, if no quartz or glass like window is used to make minimal extra air entry an issue, then this can affect correct baropressure readings and possibly cause a dysfunctional flight. If this is the case, then either add the window (e.g. see g. pitts recent posts on his camera-avbay) or recalculate the maximum vent hole cunulative size that enables your altimeters to function accurately. Alternatively, I prefer mounting cameras outside the AV-bay such as in the nose cone coupler or in the booster tube where altimeters are not a factor. BTW, what camera are you using?
Good luck,
Fred

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Thanks for the information about the av bay Fred. I was wondering the same thing about leaving it open and right now I have that 3d printed window for a cover just tacked in place with CA. It's not that large of a hole and I thought it wouldn't mess with the altimeter readings but I could be wrong. I'm still waiting for the rrc2+ and the other electronics but once I get them I will calculate the proper vent hole size to make sure it works. The camera I found on another thread about runcam splits. It's pretty darn cheap for ok quality.https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Recorder-Fuvision-Portable-Recording/dp/B07GRRLCYS

3stoogesrocketry said:

Dan , I would suggest you make your own thread . One so everybody knows its a new build and not the same one from almost 4 years ago , and two because you are doing a nice job.

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I guess I didn't really think about that but I just thought this was the place where people would post their mach 2 builds and ask questions. I know it's a little late to post and if you want it removed I have no problem with that.

Crazyrocket said:

For the featherweight, no plan is needed, just the phone. I have an iphone 6S that is in good condition (no cracked screen) that I would sell to you for $50 if you need one.

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That's a real good deal but right now I am kinda split between the apogee simple gps. The new version tracks 6 miles with the stock antenna and I kind of like that I do not need a phone to use it. If the featherweight is really far superior to the apogee one I will go with that.

D

Rocketman_dan said:

I guess I didn't really think about that but I just thought this was the place where people would post their mach 2 builds and ask questions. I know it's a little late to post and if you want it removed I have no problem with that.

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Dan - I really don't see any harm in putting all relevant info in the same thread. Some people get real touchy when old threads are revived. I revive old threads all the time. I get flamed almost every time I do it. However, I think keeping relevant info in the same thread is useful. I think it also reduces the Forum clutter.

If there is an existing thread on "GPS Units", I see no reason to create another one.

For example, look at all of the "COVID" and "EPOXY" threads that have been started on this forum. It seems logical to me to have a long running "EPOXY" thread with years of info and comments versus having to read each persons new "What kind of Epoxy Should I Use?" thread. Then you'll get comments like "...this question has been answered 1000 times on this forum...". You can't make everyone happy.

Nice build by the way. I like your "Sandwich" eBay edges and the placement of the LiPo battery. This keeps the battery secure and protects it from puncture. I have never seen that before.

What type of material is your eBay made from, and what did you use to form it? Is it cut, printed, molded, CNC?

Zeke

Zeke Johnson said:

D

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Dan - I really don't see any harm in putting all relevant info in the same thread. Some people get real touchy when old threads are revived. I revive old threads all the time. I get flamed almost every time I do it. However, I think keeping relevant info in the same thread is useful. I think it also reduces the Forum clutter.

If there is an existing thread on "GPS Units", I see no reason to create another one.

For example, look at all of the "COVID" and "EPOXY" threads that have been started on this forum. It seems logical to me to have a long running "EPOXY" thread with years of info and comments versus having to read each persons new "What kind of Epoxy Should I Use?" thread. Then you'll get comments like "...this question has been answered 1000 times on this forum...". You can't make everyone happy.

Nice build by the way. I like your "Sandwich" eBay edges and the placement of the LiPo battery. This keeps the battery secure and protects it from puncture. I have never seen that before.

What type of material is your eBay made from, and what did you use to form it? Is it cut, printed, molded, CNC?

Zeke

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Thanks so much! Ya the sandwich method I used was the only way to make this thing work really. I used plain and simple reinforced pla. This stuff kinda looks like the granite colored filament but is infused with a reinforcer. Thanks for noticing how the battery is safe from punctures I had the same thoughts. I used a tiny whoop battery for anyone who is wondering (it's just a 4.1 volt lipo stick battery pretty much).

Rocketman_dan said:

Thanks so much! Ya the sandwich method I used was the only way to make this thing work really. I used plain and simple reinforced pla. This stuff kinda looks like the granite colored filament but is infused with a reinforcer. Thanks for noticing how the battery is safe from punctures I had the same thoughts. I used a tiny whoop battery for anyone who is wondering (it's just a 4.1 volt lipo stick battery pretty much).

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If possible, can you post more detailed, close up pictures of your eBay? Or maybe add detailed info in the AV Bay thread (LOTS of good info here):

"The Avionics Bay Thread...Post your Photos!"

This is another example of keeping relevant info in a long running thread.

Your AV Bay is unique, and I believe a semi-detailed write up with close up photos would fit nicely in the AV Bay thread.

Zeke