RF Approved: Cherokee-G Limited Run Kit
- Thread starter nabooengineer
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I don't know about that . . . Guys with "special skills" always seem to find their target(s) !
Dave F.
Mine arrived today!
Blair
Blair
Space Ranger
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NabooEngineer - You can mark #30 as received & customer very satisfied. Box was extremely well packed/padded & major parts individually wrapped. I really like the blue harnesses. Great job from start to planning to efficient delivery of the mission.
Next mission, should you choose to accept it...…….
Next mission, should you choose to accept it...…….
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My code name is "Jack Bauer" !!
NabooEngineer - You can mark #30 as received & customer very satisfied. Box was extremely well packed/padded & major parts individually wrapped. I really like the blue harnesses. Great job from start to planning to efficient delivery of the mission.
Next mission, should you choose to accept it...…….
Thank you SR! Glad it arrived safe ... and the next mission is well underway, stay tuned.
Mine arrived yesterday also. The box was a little banged up but everything inside was fine. Unfortunately, one of my cats decided the small blanket was his and took off with it. Not sure where it is yet.
Out of curiosity, is anyone going to use a 38mm Aeropack retainer? If so which one should I use. I noticed that there are two variants. One fit my LOC IV but wouldn't fit my Cowabunga.
Thanks for a great kit! I do believe this will be my Level 2 rocket.
Out of curiosity, is anyone going to use a 38mm Aeropack retainer? If so which one should I use. I noticed that there are two variants. One fit my LOC IV but wouldn't fit my Cowabunga.
Thanks for a great kit! I do believe this will be my Level 2 rocket.
Thanks Scott for the update. Aeropack stated their RA38L is the correct one for the LOC 38mm MMT tube.
The small blanket may not be needed, but since I already had them, I just included it. If the cat just won’t give it up, let me know and I’ll mail out one via USPS.
With a 38mm J that will make a great L2 cert. Later today I’ll put the 38mm rocksim file online, if you’d like it.
The small blanket may not be needed, but since I already had them, I just included it. If the cat just won’t give it up, let me know and I’ll mail out one via USPS.
With a 38mm J that will make a great L2 cert. Later today I’ll put the 38mm rocksim file online, if you’d like it.
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I believe you already uploaded the 38mm rocksim file, but feel free to do so again if you wish.
Don't worry about the blanket. It's one of the hazards of having cats.
Don't worry about the blanket. It's one of the hazards of having cats.
Scott, yeah see that.. LOL. BTW I just did a sim of the 38mm J350 in the G... .92 mach... so please sim your options and watch the leading edge on those BIG fins.
#28 received! Well packaged and complete kit, looking forward to building it AND the next planned upscale!
I was thinking more along the lines of a J94 for the L2 Flight. The thrust curve looks like it'll have a more "graceful" take off so I can take pictures/video of it. I haven't had the chance to sim it yet. Hoping to this evening.
Initiator001
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Kit #22 received today here in the outskirts of San Diego, CA.
Additional update for those wanting to install the new narrow weld nuts for the rail button 8/32 machine screws. Which will now be included in the upcoming Kit #2... along with 5 black and 3 white push in rivets for the AV e bay.
I found it easy to bend the weld nuts by first installing the 8/32 machine screw into the weld nut, then ever so slightly bending the weld nut. Then remove the machine screw and wipe the weld nut down with isopropyl.
Obviously keep the epoxy out of the threads.
In the forward weld nut, apply epoxy to make it smooth on the aft end, so nothing gets hung up.
The distance on the calipers to hole center, Aft 7.5mm & 83mm. Also note that I kept the forward side of the forward weld nut epoxy wiped clear so that it won’t interfere with the AV ebay.
I also used 11/64 in drill bit for the final hole size.
Just a recommendation... if you choose to use it. I will update the G assembly recommendations pdf as well.
Forward Rail Guide Narrow Weld nut:
I found it easy to bend the weld nuts by first installing the 8/32 machine screw into the weld nut, then ever so slightly bending the weld nut. Then remove the machine screw and wipe the weld nut down with isopropyl.
Obviously keep the epoxy out of the threads.
In the forward weld nut, apply epoxy to make it smooth on the aft end, so nothing gets hung up.
The distance on the calipers to hole center, Aft 7.5mm & 83mm. Also note that I kept the forward side of the forward weld nut epoxy wiped clear so that it won’t interfere with the AV ebay.
I also used 11/64 in drill bit for the final hole size.
Just a recommendation... if you choose to use it. I will update the G assembly recommendations pdf as well.
Forward Rail Guide Narrow Weld nut:
Kit #12 was waiting for me when I arrived today. Everything is in excellent condition, well packed and labeled. Nice extra touch! Can't wait to start building!! As an interesting comparison, I was just finishing up an Estes Cherokee-E (Hobby Lobby exclusive) for a launch next weekend.
For those of you doing AV ebay for your Cherokee-G, I put together a quick paper wrap that you align with the rear rail guide line on the payload body tube and the ebay tube. It will help you place 4 push in rivets for the payload & av ebay. Make sure tape the ebay to the payload body tube before drilling. For the final hole size, I used 5/32 drill bit, trimmed with a hobby knife and used CA to protect the body tube.
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Though my kit is underway to my remailer in Florida, and it'll be a bit before I receive it in the Netherlands, I've been looking at the Rocksim files.
I'm sure it'll fly fine, but let everyone be aware that this kit is a bit heavy because of the upscale, and needs high thrust G motors to achieve stable flight getting off the pad.
I use a standard 2m rail (6 ft), and generally try to calculate that it's going fast enough at about half the rail length that the fins are steering it (stable flight) as a rule of thumb. That way both rail buttons are still in contact with the rail.
The rocksim files came with a few flight simulations, using the G35EJ and the G79W. These fly fine, but need more than 2 meters of rail before they become stable. Even the H55W needs 1.75m of rail to become stable. Not many of us use rails longer than 2m (6 ft).
The possible consequence of using the motors used in the flight simulations could be that the rocket isn't quite stable coming off the rail, catches a gust of wind, weathercocks, and goes horizontal. I'm all for safety, and try to avoid that situation.
I fly Cesaroni motors, and would recommend trying a G126-WT or a G125-RL, or something similar from Aerotech. These become stable at about half the rail length.
I've ordered the 38mm version, and even then I have to watch what I use. My go to motor is usually a 2-grain H125, but even than it doesn't have enough thrust to be stable coming off the rail. I'll be using fast-burners, like the H225-WT, for first flight.
@nabooengineer - you might want to include higher thrust motors in your rocksim files as examples, and remove the lower thrust ones.
I'm sure it'll fly fine, but let everyone be aware that this kit is a bit heavy because of the upscale, and needs high thrust G motors to achieve stable flight getting off the pad.
I use a standard 2m rail (6 ft), and generally try to calculate that it's going fast enough at about half the rail length that the fins are steering it (stable flight) as a rule of thumb. That way both rail buttons are still in contact with the rail.
The rocksim files came with a few flight simulations, using the G35EJ and the G79W. These fly fine, but need more than 2 meters of rail before they become stable. Even the H55W needs 1.75m of rail to become stable. Not many of us use rails longer than 2m (6 ft).
The possible consequence of using the motors used in the flight simulations could be that the rocket isn't quite stable coming off the rail, catches a gust of wind, weathercocks, and goes horizontal. I'm all for safety, and try to avoid that situation.
I fly Cesaroni motors, and would recommend trying a G126-WT or a G125-RL, or something similar from Aerotech. These become stable at about half the rail length.
I've ordered the 38mm version, and even then I have to watch what I use. My go to motor is usually a 2-grain H125, but even than it doesn't have enough thrust to be stable coming off the rail. I'll be using fast-burners, like the H225-WT, for first flight.
@nabooengineer - you might want to include higher thrust motors in your rocksim files as examples, and remove the lower thrust ones.
Hi Steve, thank you for the great observations. Some of those low thrust motors were for motor only deployment without an eBay and your points are all valid. As you know Every builder is going to build different, and the prototype build, which was motor deploy only without ebay, came in at only 1198 grams dry.
I highly encourage builders to always simulate their kit with their actual weights, at least run a thrustcurve on them. However I put a few more motors in the file and replaced the original rocksim files.
Also noticed the launch guide was only 36 inches. Fixed that to be 2000mm, so everyone adjust accordingly. Also be aware these fins are large for a rocket this size.
I highly encourage builders to always simulate their kit with their actual weights, at least run a thrustcurve on them. However I put a few more motors in the file and replaced the original rocksim files.
Also noticed the launch guide was only 36 inches. Fixed that to be 2000mm, so everyone adjust accordingly. Also be aware these fins are large for a rocket this size.
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Not sure if anyone else has experienced this, but I started in on the E-Bay this weekend and discovered that the threaded rods do not fit the bulkhead holes.
Hi Scott, sorry for any inconvenience. I built 2 of them during prototype builds, you can see the larger lettering on the bulkheads in the pics and all was fine. On Saturday I finished the one from my actual kit, has smaller lettering on the bulkheads, it was too tight as well, so I opened it up just a little with a drill bit. It seemed to have more laser burn residue inside the hole than the first 2 prototypes.
Also test fit the blinkies into the sled and rods in the bulkhead before glueing up, so you can get all the alignment for ease of field assembly when complete. I also opened the holes up a little on the blinkies on my kit as well. As well as put holes for the blast cups and ematch wiring.
BTW I am not using a switch ring. Which electronics are you going with? I have a couple new PerfectFlight MAWDs (1.21) on my shelf gathering dust, so I am going to use one of those. Hope to have my kit fully dressed for a maiden launch at WVSOAR on 14-Sep.
Also test fit the blinkies into the sled and rods in the bulkhead before glueing up, so you can get all the alignment for ease of field assembly when complete. I also opened the holes up a little on the blinkies on my kit as well. As well as put holes for the blast cups and ematch wiring.
BTW I am not using a switch ring. Which electronics are you going with? I have a couple new PerfectFlight MAWDs (1.21) on my shelf gathering dust, so I am going to use one of those. Hope to have my kit fully dressed for a maiden launch at WVSOAR on 14-Sep.
If I may (too late), what's a "blinkie"? Unfortunately, I glued the tabs in already before test fitting the bulkheads. Newbie mistake.
I was planning on cutting new bulkheads at eRockets with help from club members. I need to learn how to use their laser cutter.
I have a Stratologger CF that I am planning to use. To be honest I've never done an E-Bay before so this is new territory for me. Besides the Stratologger, I'm not even 50% sure what I need to complete it. I've seen several videos online but sometimes come out more confused than I went in. Again, I will probably turn to other WSR club members for advice.
I was planning on cutting new bulkheads at eRockets with help from club members. I need to learn how to use their laser cutter.
I have a Stratologger CF that I am planning to use. To be honest I've never done an E-Bay before so this is new territory for me. Besides the Stratologger, I'm not even 50% sure what I need to complete it. I've seen several videos online but sometimes come out more confused than I went in. Again, I will probably turn to other WSR club members for advice.
Blinkies are the little tabs on the under side of the sled that holds it onto the rods.
You can adjust the holes on the blinkies, even after epoxying them in with a drill bit.
I must be missing something on why would you need to cut new bulkheads?
A Stratlogger CF will be perfect, and you don’t need much more. A Switch, battery holder of some sort, and you need a very good switch. I typically use Schrurter SWA switch, mounted to the sled. Will get some pics for you
Some use blast cups, some don’t. I like them since it allows some control towards the shear pins, and seems to keep things a little cleaner.
You can adjust the holes on the blinkies, even after epoxying them in with a drill bit.
I must be missing something on why would you need to cut new bulkheads?
A Stratlogger CF will be perfect, and you don’t need much more. A Switch, battery holder of some sort, and you need a very good switch. I typically use Schrurter SWA switch, mounted to the sled. Will get some pics for you
Some use blast cups, some don’t. I like them since it allows some control towards the shear pins, and seems to keep things a little cleaner.
I was hesitant to drilling the blinkies because there's not as much material there to work with and I didn't want to weaken them any.
The "Blinkies" slip into the "Thingamjig" to hold the "Whatchamacallit" in place on the "Whatzit" . . .
I hope that was helpful . . . LOL !
I'm looking forward to seeing the pics, once these are all complete and flying !
Dave F.
