3D Printing 3D printer plunge

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I really want to get the MMU 2.0 but I am hesitant to pull the trigger until I feel it is mature enough. Is anyone using the MMU 2.0, if so what is your opinion, ready for prime-time, pros, cons, etc. Also Prusa hinted about a completely new printing technology that they are working on and will be announcing in 2019, something that hinted as being a game changer, paraphrasing that last part.
Nice job on the nozzle holder btw, I wish I had that many in 54mm I needed to keep track of but you've given me an idea for my larger nozzles.

I've also looked at the MMU but I figured I'd wait until I get more experience. It would be really useful to hear from someone who already has one.

I got OctoPrint up and running. I went with a Raspberry B+ rather than the Zero that mounts right on the unit. I printed a case that mounts to the frame just about the controller's case. I added a $10 webcam and I've been very happy with it. I really like that I can send files to the printer right from within Slic3r. I can't believe how much better it makes the entire process.

The short shaft on the extruder gear is really a terrible oversight on Prusa's part. I noticed that when I was building mine and I was really surprised there was not more in the manual about setting tension and alignment. I know some of that comes later but it would be a lot better if they beefed up that section of the manual. I've seen others complain about their MK3's and I bet that shaft is the source of a lot of issues.

Again, thanks all for sharing your knowledge. It has been super helpful to me and I'm sure many others.


Tony
 
I really want to get the MMU 2.0 but I am hesitant to pull the trigger until I feel it is mature enough. Is anyone using the MMU 2.0, if so what is your opinion, ready for prime-time, pros, cons, etc. Also Prusa hinted about a completely new printing technology that they are working on and will be announcing in 2019, something that hinted as being a game changer, paraphrasing that last part.
My advice for MMU 2.0 is DONT. It is not ready for prime time. I didn't even get through the install -- kept burning out boards. Spent many hours on chat with Prusa. Printer down for a month. Very frustrated. Finally had to send the whole thing back. Not sure of the resolution, replacement or refund, but I am sure hoping for the latter.

The other factor is that it uses a guillotine design to cut the fibers and then switching between them. Switching filaments takes a relatively long time. If your design has a lot of filament changes, it may not be practical to print.

If you are justing going to print support and regular filament, a two head design would be much more prudent.

I have had an awesome experience with my Prusa MK3. Kept it going 24x7 for almost 6 months.
 
I’ve not had experience with Prusa’s MMU. I choose to try a different route for multi-color, multi-material for my Prusa MK3. It’s the Palette II Pro by Mosaic Manufacturing ( https://www.mosaicmfg.com ).

The Palette II works by creating a spliced together filament feed that goes into the single extruder. I have had it for a short period of time and printed the test multi-color print which came out quite nice . Will be printing my self-designed first prints after I return from holiday travel and will give a more complete report then.

Hmm nice looking product and their office is 10 min from my home. I will have to dig a bit deeper into all of the options and see if there are any decent comparisons of each tech.

I am pretty sure, based on the limited research I have done, that Prusa will be making some needed changes to the current MMU 2.0 soonish. This is based on "improvements" that some early adopters have reported as they work through issues. Whether these will be simple firmware and or hardware changes, I suspect both, remains to be seen. In the mean-time I need to remind myself to be patient and not be too early of an adopter, although I fully appreciate the early adopters.

Nice job on the nozzle holder btw, I wish I had that many in 54mm I needed to keep track of but you've given me an idea for my larger nozzles.

I've also looked at the MMU but I figured I'd wait until I get more experience. It would be really useful to hear from someone who already has one.

I got OctoPrint up and running. I went with a Raspberry B+ rather than the Zero that mounts right on the unit. I printed a case that mounts to the frame just about the controller's case. I added a $10 webcam and I've been very happy with it. I really like that I can send files to the printer right from within Slic3r. I can't believe how much better it makes the entire process.

The short shaft on the extruder gear is really a terrible oversight on Prusa's part. I noticed that when I was building mine and I was really surprised there was not more in the manual about setting tension and alignment. I know some of that comes later but it would be a lot better if they beefed up that section of the manual. I've seen others complain about their MK3's and I bet that shaft is the source of a lot of issues.

Again, thanks all for sharing your knowledge. It has been super helpful to me and I'm sure many others.


Tony

Thanks, I just updated the Thingiverse files for the 54mm holder last night. I still need to do another version of the 38mm holder for another section of my toolbox and will update Thingiverse once complete. I am also making a single 54mm holder that is basically a full case with a locking top. Basically something you can put a single nozzle into and throw it into any field box.

On the short extruder shaft issue, I did not notice that when I assembled mine but I will keep an eye on it. I may hunt for or have my machinist turn a custom shaft to fix/avoid the issue.

My advice for MMU 2.0 is DONT. It is not ready for prime time. I didn't even get through the install -- kept burning out boards. Spent many hours on chat with Prusa. Printer down for a month. Very frustrated. Finally had to send the whole thing back. Not sure of the resolution, replacement or refund, but I am sure hoping for the latter.

The other factor is that it uses a guillotine design to cut the fibers and then switching between them. Switching filaments takes a relatively long time. If your design has a lot of filament changes, it may not be practical to print.

If you are justing going to print support and regular filament, a two head design would be much more prudent.

I have had an awesome experience with my Prusa MK3. Kept it going 24x7 for almost 6 months.

Thanks for the input. Like I replied to memcbride, I think I will attempt to turn my 3D excitement down a notch or two and let the multi-material technologies mature a bit more.
 
As an indication of how important slicer settings and software can be, check out the images below. I am very new to the whole 3D printer business and still have a lot to learn. I have a Prusa MK3 which comes with a customized version of Slic3r. I thought I'd try some other slicers and my first attempt did not go so well. The first fin can is with the customized Slic3r software, the second is with Cura with the Prusa MK3 profiles. I must have made a wrong setting somewhere because as you can see the results are drastically different. It is crazy how many parameters there are and how important they become depending on the type of print you are doing. When I printed a nose cone today, I had to change the retract amount in order to eliminate blobs on the surface. It's a never ending learning experience.


Tony

(ps: thanks to VCP - Gary for the fin can file in OpenScad format - it's been a good learning tool)

using Slic3r PE (Prusa Edition) with PET preset:
good-fins.jpg

using Cura with the Prusa MK3 preset for PET (I think! - I need to take better notes):
bad-fins.jpg
 
Allow me to gloat a bit. Company funding was approved. I'm reviewing a new printer for work..

Fusion3 410 or the Modix 610.. (or other..)

I still would prefer a laser cutter though! :D
 
I just received my replacement Pi 3B+ from Adafruit. If someone wants my old one they can have it FREE just pay the postage. The WiFi doesn't work. I don't know if anything else will work or not.
PM me.
 
Well, I'm about to take the plunge into the 3D printing world. I have been seeing all these good printed parts for models rockets and I want to join in. The files on Thingiverse are great and the files by Scottdee BT-80 Saturn V is definitely something I want to build. All his files are nice. I can think of a lot of things I would like to design and print but I have no designs skills at all. I can only hope others with the design skills will keep giving us their gifts of rocket file they share. For those out there thank in advance.

Here are some things I would design if I could. Since Dr. Zooch has quit rocket production I would do a series of nose cones and parts to reproduce his rockets. Parts to produce a nice looking X-15 in the BT-60 or BT-55 tubes size would be nice. One thing now that is a hot rocket idem is the ESTES 1/200 Saturn V. I would love to see someone design a nice but simple 1/200 scale LUT platform to display the Saturn V on and a Skylab nose cone to change out to have a 1/200 scale of that style Saturn. Sorry I'll stop I'm sure I'm boring you to death. Right now I just hope I can learn how to run a 3D printer.
 
Right now I'm leaning in the direction of a CR-10 Mini. It seems to get a lot of good reviews and it's in my price range.
 
Right now I'm leaning in the direction of a CR-10 Mini. It seems to get a lot of good reviews and it's in my price range.

Be prepared to tinket....a lot. It takes a lot of work to get a Creality printer to print.
 
What would you recommend for 70 yeas older first-timer 3D printer owner?
 
Prusa MK3s, it just works.............. Sorry it's a lot more $ than a CR 10 mini, but it will save a lot of headaches and frustration, especially for a newbie to 3d printing. I have a MK3s, and also a 2 1/2 year old MK2s, that I've upgraded several times, and it still prints as good as day one. I have no problem with starting a 12 hr plus print and not "baby sitting" it, like some of friends do with less expensive printers. If there's no way to swing the cost, I have a friend with an Ender 3, that gives decent results. Good luck on an enjoyable journey ! BTW, I'm 66, not far from you !
 
I wish I could afford the Prusa MK3s but it's a little out of my price range. I would like a self-leveling bed but I believe I can level the bed part. I was going to get the Ender 3 at first but I read the CR-10 was a little better so I haven't pulled the trigger on either one of them yet. I would like to get started and work on learning how to operate the printer over the winter. Like I said I would like to build Scottdee BT-80 Saturn V and his BT-60 Saturn V and Saturn 1B. At this point, I have watched so many youtube video on the 3D printer I don't know which one to get. I do like Ender 3 as much as any of them. When you said to prepare for a lot of tinkering with the CR-10, this is what I don't want. I understanding I will have to do some tinkering but I don' want a lot. I just want something I can get it dialed in after a little tinkering.
 
My friend bought the Ender 3 pro. It has a more reliable power supply than the regular, and also a magnetic bed. The bed is junk so he prints on glass, using hairspray for adhesive. Also changed the bed springs, $2 -$3, and upgraded to a better plated nozzle, maybe $20. The nozzle was needed because he was printing abrasive filament, like glow in the dark, and carbon fiber. He's happy with it now, and only messes with leveling the bed every five or six prints. When you research the Enders and the CR10s, you'll find everyone does upgrades to make them more reliable.
 
get the prusa..you want to be printing instead of fixing things to get it to work
 
Pay for what you can afford but you will pay for it with lots of tinkering. My ender3 pro was jus over 200. I put another 2-300 in replacement parts. Yet to see if it fixes problems.
 
Thanks for your advice it has been helpful. I see it's all going to be a learning process no matter what I decide to get.
 
I bought a FolgerTech Prusa i3 2020 kit, which took time to assemble but I haven't had to do much tinkering beyond calibration and figuring out filament-specific settings.

My only "investment" has been a recent upgrade to the hot end / extruder (E3D Titan Aero) to more reliably print PETG. Worth it for rocketry (in hot weather) but definitely a whole new level of "tinkering" (but after 2+ years of experience).

I definitely got my $250-ish dollars' worth out of it!
 
Oddly my Ender 3 just works out of the box. Haven't swapped a single part.

It works but it not a great printers. Compared to the Prusa, it is a bucket of bolts. Auto-leveling of the Prusa is unmatched in the consumer industry.
 
My "bucket of bolts" runs almost 24/7 and prints fine.
For $200 bucks, who can complain?

According to the forums, your experience is a rarity. For everyone post I find online saying they work, there are 8-9 that day they don’t work well. The opposite is true with Prusa. You get what you pay for. I bought one to tinker and boy have I had to tinker. The only plus is I have gotten 3 lemons from Creality and they replaced them all. That is a plus. 2 Enders and one CR-10S Pro failed to work out of the box. At least hey replaced them.
 
Putting a hundred bucks into upgrading an Ender brings it up to par with the Prusa or other $500+ printers. And you can have fun upgrading it. Alot of upgrades are simply parts you make yourself and maybe a bolt or two, big deal. The biggest expense I had was a $20 SKR v1.3 32 bit mainboard, and a Raspberry Pi for controlling it via wireless. The raspberry is kinda helpful for any printer. I love the magnetic bed, I don't know why people bash it. I have never had any problems with prints coming loose. Even PETG works great with it. I use cheap ass Suave extra hold #10 (Also good for gluing ground foam to your model railroad trees...lol)
 
His suggestion for parts was NylonX, which is CF-doped Nylon.
That does look interesting. MatterHackers also offers "NyonG", which has fiberglass fibers instead of CF (and available in 3 colors).

Here is their page on NylonX:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/nylonx-carbon-fiber-filament-3mm/sk/MNP2JAEC

The data sheet lists "Max usage Temp. short term" as 150℃, which makes it useable for aft-end parts (even in contact with the motor case).

I also have not branched out beyond PLA, but this looks worth it (even though you need a special nozzle and to enclose the printer).
 
Putting a hundred bucks into upgrading an Ender brings it up to par with the Prusa or other $500+ printers. And you can have fun upgrading it. Alot of upgrades are simply parts you make yourself and maybe a bolt or two, big deal. The biggest expense I had was a $20 SKR v1.3 32 bit mainboard, and a Raspberry Pi for controlling it via wireless. The raspberry is kinda helpful for any printer. I love the magnetic bed, I don't know why people bash it. I have never had any problems with prints coming loose. Even PETG works great with it. I use cheap ass Suave extra hold #10 (Also good for gluing ground foam to your model railroad trees...lol)

+1 for the Ender 3 pro. The magnetic bed works great and I even like the stock magnetic printing surface. Works great with PETG once you figure out good settings. I’ve ran quite a few spools of filament through it (was going pretty well 24/7 until I left for vacation) and have seen few issues that weren’t due to user error.
Have spent about $100 on upgrades (metal extruder, Capricorn tubing, bed springs right off the bat — see that someone is selling all of these as a kit for $20), plus $65 recently for a micro-Swiss hotend.
I have printed quite a few upgrades for the printer, plus made an IKEA Lack table enclosure just because. Sure that’s “tinkering” but I learned quite a bit during the process.
You might check to see if you have a maker space close to you. That way you can get some experience and a better idea of what works for you.
To be sure, a Prusa is a mighty fine printer, but the Ender was what I could afford at the time (and a much easier sell to my wife) and I am quite happy with it. I see no compelling reason to trade mine in for a more expensive one. I’m mainly printing household items for my wife, who has trouble gripping and turning things, along with a few rocket parts like sleds, camera shrouds, and alignment jigs.
As always, your mileage may vary.
Bill H
 
After about $300, I got my ender to be reliable with auto-leveling. I printed 3 items last night. It does not come with it out of th box.

I got my CR-10S pro to work yesterday also. I replace the PInda and it works.

The bottom line is it is a Chinese made printer and you will be rolling the dice. Quality checks are not the same as other manufacturers.
 
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