Go Devil 98

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LawnDart2020

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Just got the e-mail from Madcow about the new Go Devils both 75mm and 98mm, and I'm thinking of picking up a 75 to add to the build pile. My question is "what about the 98?" I would feel nervous putting a 98mm motor in that airframe, especially a fast burning N or something with high average impulse. At the very least I would want to do a carbon fiber layup over the fins. Does anyone else have an opinion on what they would do to this rocket, or what kind of motors they would fly in it? Sounds like an interesting project...
 
Point taken. Can we get back on topic?

What are your thoughts on a full fiberglass min diameter 98mm rocket? Would you be worried about the fins or nose cone failing under such demanding circumstances? What motors would you consider flying in it, or not flying in it ex: N5800. Just saw an interesting kit with some cool possibilities, and thought I would bring up something fun. Thanks
 
Either of these kits would make for a formidable minimum diameter bird with a lot of possibilities. The overall length is a bit much IMO. I would ditch the upper airframe in lieu of head end dual deploy.

Assuming the fins are glued on straight, decent size fillets applied, and maybe some carbon/fiberglass fin-to-fin, should be a fun build.

If anyone buys one of these kits and wants to subcontract out the construction, hit me up! :)
 
4in would make a nice L-3 with a 75mm motor hole in it. Much more flexible sport flier than if built minimum diam.
Will fly on 2 grain 54's up to full M's and everything in between. [assuming you keep build weight around 14-15lbs.]
 
What are your thoughts on a full fiberglass min diameter 98mm rocket? Would you be worried about the fins or nose cone failing under such demanding circumstances? What motors would you consider flying in it, or not flying in it ex: N5800. Just saw an interesting kit with some cool possibilities, and thought I would bring up something fun. Thanks

Nice kit, awesome sales price.
When properly assembled and fillet-ed, should hold up to lots of abuse. Would need to upscale goDevil 38 .rkt file to find out exactly how fast and how high on a given motor.

Alas, I suspect sim results will show that there are only 5-6 places in the country where one could fly it and stay under the waiver, and the closest one is ~20 hours away from me...
:(

a
 
Snagged a 98 min diameter from the sale :) Planning on building it for long burn 98s, M750 (9600 N-s) to N1030 (18,000 N-s, 98/20480 case:)) Will glass the fillets on the fins and use nose cone main, no payload section. Altimeter will be in nose cone shoulder, like the Punisher series. Will use adapters for smaller motors. I already have a 4" DX3-XL with 75mm hole for sport flying.
 
I'm surprised there are still some of these available after 2 hours. That's a smokin deal for high performance. I ordered one of each for future L3 opportunities, but that's a problem for future AeroAggie.

I did a quickie scale up from my Go Devil 54 sim and rough numbers for the GD75 indicate Mach 2.75 and 34k altitude on a CTI M2245, and GD98 is Mach 3 and 49k on a CTI O3400. Those motor files are just the highest impulse in the baseline Open Rocket data for each diameter. I didn't bother trying to sort anything out. That's with zero attention to detail other than getting diameter and fin thickness correct. When I get them in I'll get more accurate dimensions for the fins and recovery gear.
 
Point taken. Can we get back on topic?

What are your thoughts on a full fiberglass min diameter 98mm rocket? Would you be worried about the fins or nose cone failing under such demanding circumstances? What motors would you consider flying in it, or not flying in it ex: N5800. Just saw an interesting kit with some cool possibilities, and thought I would bring up something fun. Thanks
I ordered the 3" with a 54mm tube and a 4" with the 75mm tube for that added assurances of fins staying in place.
 
I'm surprised there are still some of these available after 2 hours. That's a smokin deal for high performance. I ordered one of each for future L3 opportunities, but that's a problem for future AeroAggie.

I did a quickie scale up from my Go Devil 54 sim and rough numbers for the GD75 indicate Mach 2.75 and 34k altitude on a CTI M2245, and GD98 is Mach 3 and 49k on a CTI O3400. Those motor files are just the highest impulse in the baseline Open Rocket data for each diameter. I didn't bother trying to sort anything out. That's with zero attention to detail other than getting diameter and fin thickness correct. When I get them in I'll get more accurate dimensions for the fins and recovery gear.
When you finish your sim file would you mind sharing. I'm still trying to learn all the details of creating them.
 
Sure, no problem. I'll strip out all the recovery stuff and just leave the kit parts. I won't be building either of these until next winter so I'm not putting a lot of effort into the details at this point.
 
I got one of the 3", but with the 54mm motor mount. I have never been a big minimum diameter fan.

Of course with a mid-thrust 54/2560 it should move out pretty well.

I think with the 4" I would go with the 75mm mount, and it could even adapt down to larger 54mm motivators.
 
Here is my 4” and 4” x 50” motor to go with it. 17,000ns N.
CA4F012355924FC3B482.jpeg
 
I got the 4" min diameter intending on flying in on an N at BALLS 2020. I like the idea of ditching the upper air frame and really getting the thing small. I'm still debating T2T fin set up though. I bought mine with the airframe pre-slotted for fins (I like to cut notches in the fins to recess them for min diam) but I'm not totally decided on what to do.
 
I got the 4" min diameter intending on flying in on an N at BALLS 2020. I like the idea of ditching the upper air frame and really getting the thing small. I'm still debating T2T fin set up though. I bought mine with the airframe pre-slotted for fins (I like to cut notches in the fins to recess them for min diam) but I'm not totally decided on what to do.
I don't know a lot about min dia. Build but I would think you will need to do tip to tip with the tube being slotted. The slots has to weaken the tube.
 
I don't know a lot about min dia. Build but I would think you will need to do tip to tip with the tube being slotted. The slots has to weaken the tube.

T2T was intended to null out possible fin flutter and keep the find from being yanked from the airframe. Longitudinal slots in a tube that diameter and thickness would only marginally affect perpendicular load capacity. Plus with the tube to motor case contact to support rigidity, it should be fine. My thin wall 2.6" FG Blue Iguana lost its main chute at 500 feet on its first flight and came in on its ass...bounced about 5 feet off the plays but zero damage and has flown on an L935 since. Fiberglass is beefy.
 
T2T was intended to null out possible fin flutter and keep the find from being yanked from the airframe. Longitudinal slots in a tube that diameter and thickness would only marginally affect perpendicular load capacity. Plus with the tube to motor case contact to support rigidity, it should be fine. My thin wall 2.6" FG Blue Iguana lost its main chute at 500 feet on its first flight and came in on its ass...bounced about 5 feet off the plays but zero damage and has flown on an L935 since. Fiberglass is beefy.
I have built many FG kits. But none min dia. I may need to give one a try
 
I've simmed this slightly shortened version of the Go Devil 98 based on an upscaled Go Devil 54, but I shortened it to get some extra altitude. You could lengthen the original 22" upper bay for the main parachute, where mine uses the nose cone for the main chute bay. Not sure if the fins are exactly right, as I don't have the kit yet. When I get to building, I generally measure and weigh everything, but this should give you a rough idea. Also, during building I would combine the very short upper airframe with the ebay band.

Sims to 30k using 6XL motors, and of course I added the CTI boat tail retainer, available only for the XL motors.

Hope this helps
 

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