I recently assembled a Eggtimer TRS altimeter/GPS tracker and the LCD receiver. Eggtimer recommends using LiPo 2S batteries. How does one mount/secure them in an avionics bay?
Securing LiPo Batteries
- Thread starter Greg Furtman
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Zip ties
I’ve used large diameter heat shrink to protect the battery and use either tape or zip ties. I’ve also drilled a hole through the end of the heat shrink to mount it to the board for dynamic flights. I’m also just now starting to design 3D printed mounts. I have completed several for my Featherweight trackers and for those I put the batteries in a box that is printed as part of the mount.
Tony
Tony
RocketDestroyer
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I'm agree with Tony. I worry about the narrow tie creating a pressure point or cutting into the battery and damaging it. I use electrical tape when I must secure the battery to something. For my 3D printed electronics bay sleds I have a small compartment built in with a cover that holds the LiPo in place.
Tony, if you have any pics or drawings I'd like to take a look at them.
Here's a couple of examples: (In the first image, the top battery is for a Perfectflight CF, the bottom is for a Featherweight tracker, in the bottom image the 3D printed mount is for a tracker mounted in a 54mm nosecone)
I'm replacing all my sleds with 3D designs that will have the battery box.
Tony
I'm replacing all my sleds with 3D designs that will have the battery box.
Tony
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GlueckAuf
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One or two zip ties AND self-adhesive Velcro have worked well for me. The Velcro lends incredible shear strength; the LiPo (loop half) will not slide side-to-side once pressed firmly down on the sled (hook half). But when pulled straight up, the hooks and loops separate pretty easily. The zip tie(s), mounted through holes in the sled, prevent that. The synergy of the two results in security of mounting far greater than the sum that both individually would provide.
What he said ^^^
Velcro to hold the batteries down, and cable ties around the battery/sled to keep the Velcro from peeling. Doesn't need much of a tie to hold them in place during flight.
Here is a typical example:
Velcro to hold the batteries down, and cable ties around the battery/sled to keep the Velcro from peeling. Doesn't need much of a tie to hold them in place during flight.
Here is a typical example:
spigalau
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I see your 2 x Lipos & raise you with 3 x 450 Lipos.
1" wide PVC capping epoxied to rear of MAC Performance Rocketry 3D printed Sled, sitting inside foam, secured within the capping by dual zip ties. Applying tension to the zips. pulls the capping around the batteries.
Electronics on other side of the sled are 1 x Eggtimer TRS and 1 x MissileWorks RRC2+
1" wide PVC capping epoxied to rear of MAC Performance Rocketry 3D printed Sled, sitting inside foam, secured within the capping by dual zip ties. Applying tension to the zips. pulls the capping around the batteries.
Electronics on other side of the sled are 1 x Eggtimer TRS and 1 x MissileWorks RRC2+
A different approach, I just make a cradle out of wood and have it secure a plywood lid with 4-40 nylon screws.
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Marten, I like your approach with the full lid because it helps to insure the form integrity of the lipo.
I've seen lipos after a high G launch in Black Rock that lost their form, looked more like a teabag than something rectangular. Of course, the teabag lipo didn't work anymore, but at least it didn't catch fire. Luckily the backup altimeter used a 9v battery which didn't lose it's form under a high-G launch.
Since then, when using lipo's I try to contain them somewhat. I use 3D printed sleds with a battery holder and lid, probably not as strong as your plywood lid.
Wow, that's wild. That must have been some extreme acceleration. Form integrity of the lipo is something I hadn't even considered for my mild G, H, and I flights, but that is good information!
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If I remember correctly, it was a classic 6 grain 98mm with somewhere around 1000 lbs of peak thrust, wasn't even the "rocket killer" O5800 or a vmax, which are about double the thrust. Your G, H, and I flights are probably max 100 lbs peak thrust. Should be safe. 
Cameron Anderson
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Gorilla tape. Only down side is it often removes the lipo's external wrapping.
Yup, Gorilla Tape is prety sticky stuff. A friend of mine has an old, rust, black Honda Civic and the body is mainly held together with Black Gorilla Tape.
The box concept also has another important benefit. If you click on the bottom thumbnail in my post #9 above, you can see that the battery is completely enclosed, except at the top. One goal I had for my mounts was not only making sure they didn't move in flight but also to protect them from damage during handling. The completely enclosed battery makes it less likely I'll nick with with a screwdriver or something similar. I had a somewhat scary incident when I was securing a tie wrap around the battery and had the tail on the battery side of the board. In my somewhat clumsy attempt to cut the tail I jabbed the battery pretty good. (With the tip of a needle nose pliers.) Fortunately nothing bad happened but it concerned me enough to change the way I mount the batteries.
Tony
Tony
I like your ideas of enclosing LiPo's. I have a lot of Baltic Birch cutoffs in varying thicknesses & I'll make something like you have done.
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I've been making my sleds out of bass wood lately. And blocking out areas for the batteries with bass wood sq stock.The 1/2" sq stock is just 'super glued" in place. I make covers of of G10. The covers are screwed down with Dubro 2/56 allen (?) head screws.
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=DUBC0893
It's quick and easy to make and to service. I even use those same screws to attach altimeters or tracking units. For stand offs I use some tiny ID silicone tubing..cut it to the desired stand off length.
The below sled is a piece of 1/4" Bass wood with 1/32" G10 covers
Tony
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=DUBC0893
It's quick and easy to make and to service. I even use those same screws to attach altimeters or tracking units. For stand offs I use some tiny ID silicone tubing..cut it to the desired stand off length.
The below sled is a piece of 1/4" Bass wood with 1/32" G10 covers
Tony
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