Need help flashing Eggfinder LCD firmware

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scsager

scsager

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I have v1.09e on the LCD now and wanted to update to v1_11b.
I expect to see “avrdude: Send: 0…” but instead I’m getting “avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00”

What I’m I doing wrong?

***********************************************

Here are the steps I have taken:

>>> LCD currently has v1.09e.

v1.09e.jpg


>>> Downloaded, unzipped v1_11b firmware.
>>> Put the .bat file in c:\ and the .hex file in c:\eggtimer\
>>> Winavr is installed

c-driveCapture.PNG

>>> My Com port is com2.
>>> I’m using an older prolific driver – new drivers give an error message.

bat1Capture.PNG port1Capture.PNG port2Capture.PNG port3Capture.PNG


>>> Data cable connected, and jumper installed

connection.jpg


>>> Turn on LCD – no beeps (as expected with RST jumper)

on-no-beep.jpg

>>> enter the text in the CMD prompt
>>> It seems to start correctly – I see the header stuff...

avrdudeCapture.PNG

The command prompt text pauses at “overriding baud rate: 115200” for about 10 seconds.
Then “avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00”


Any help or suggestions - much appreciated!!
 
Going to try with a different computer. Also thinking of getting another cable.

I should mention - This LCD is several years old and was flashed once previously to get it to v1.09e.

Have not reached out to Cris yet... Kinda hoping posting here would help more people.

-anyone have any other suggestions???
 
The keys to success... 1) Don't push the u-bent paperclip in too far... just far enough to make contact with the RST pads. If you push it in all the way, it will probably "bounce" when you pull it out, and reset the processor again which will fail the bootloader. 2) Pull the paperclip out IMMEDIATELY after you launch the .bat file.

If you do these two things, it will work virtually every time.
 
Well, now I feel pretty dumb...

It wasn't a "bounce" issue, - more of a way-too-slow pin pull. I was waiting for the “avrdude: Send: 0…” text to show up.

This time I hit ENTER with one hand, and pulled the jumper with the other hand without even looking for any text... SUCCESS !!!

Cris - thanks for your help!
 
Well Now I get to add mt 2 cents worth. I could not get the flash update to work on either of my Eggfinder LCD's. Firsts off I am running Windows 11 on both of my windows Computers ( I have 3 others running Ubuntu Linux) So that is an issue, I learned last week the Prolific cable I have been using Won't work on Windows 11, "BUT" a cable using the USB-serial chips by FTDI will work... I had used that "new" cable to test and "Clean out" old files on my Eggfinder TRS modules with only one issue, I had to swap the green and white connections from how they worked with the old Prolific cable. Now for the dilemma, I tried for over 3 hours to re-program the LCD's ( needed update to add voice modules) NOTHING worked on either the Eggfinder revA1 OR the revB2 no matter how the pins were places... just nothing. I saw this Thread and decided to try again with the old Prolific cable on a Windows 10 computer, SUCCESS 1st try for both. I'm not sure why the new cable and Win11 didn't work, I did have the latest drivers and WinAvr and had reset the computer to be sure that wasn't the issue. I guess What I want here is just a heads up and to ask If ANYONE has tried to update with windows11 and a FTDI FT232RL cable?

​

 
We sell a CP2102-based USB-Serial "dongle" for Windows 11 use, it's $8. That's what we've been using for all of our Atmel flashes for about the past six months. FTDI also works... in fact, the Eggtimer Classic's 6-pin header is pinned for a FTDI header, but we haven't used one for that purpose in quite awhile.
 
Spent an entire hour on this so far and cannot get it to flash. Keeps saying "not in sync"

Anyone out there see this as well??

I am not even using a paperclip, just a bent over piece of solid wire that is touching the RST pads.





C:\Eggtimer>Eggfinder_LCD_2_03g.bat

C:\Eggtimer>echo on

C:\Eggtimer>cd C:\WinAVR-20100110\bin

C:\WinAVR-20100110\bin>avrdude -Cavrdude.conf -v -v -pm328p -carduino -P\\.\COM5 -b115200 -D -Uflash:w:c:\eggtimer\eggfinder_lcd_2_03g.hex:i

avrdude: Version 5.10, compiled on Jan 19 2010 at 10:45:23
Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/
Copyright (c) 2007-2009 Joerg Wunsch

System wide configuration file is "avrdude.conf"

Using Port : \\.\COM5
Using Programmer : arduino
Overriding Baud Rate : 115200
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00

avrdude done. Thank you.


C:\WinAVR-20100110\bin>cd \eggtimer
 
Keys to success updating the Atmel processors (Classic, TRS, LCD, EVM):

Don’t use the Prolific driver that comes with Windows, it does NOT work properly. Download the one for your platform from:

http://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41
(If you have the USB-Serial dongle for Windows 11, follow the connection instructions on the sheet that comes with it.)

Set your COM port to COM2 through COM4 in Device Manager, we recommend COM2 unless you actually have something on it (which is extremely rare nowadays). If Windows complains, ignore the warning... it's just Windows being Windows.

Don't push the paperclip jumper across the RST pads in too far, it only needs to go in far enough to contact the pads. If you push it in "all the way", it may bounce when it comes out and reset the processor

Pull out the paperclip IMMEDIATELY after launching the .bat file. This is time-sensitive... but ones you get the rhythm it gets easy.
 
I ditched the paperclip long ago and use a switch, a couple of dupont connectors, and a pair of 90 degree header pins. I use a little masking tape to take the wires to the work surface so they don't wiggle around. Works great.


Photo Aug 28, 15 52 02.jpgPhoto Aug 28, 15 53 24.jpg
 
On the WiFi-enabled devices, the only requirement is that the two PGM pads be shorted at power-up... once the processor is in bootloader mode, it's going to stay there until you flash it. No tricky timing, either.
 
I'm having the same trouble updating the firmware on the LCD from ver 1.11b to 2.03g.

I'm using a Windows 11 laptop and the USB serial cable on COM2. The cable works to program my TRS with PuTTY so sure the cable amd drivers aren't the issue.

No matter how I time launching the batch file and removing the paperclip from the LCD reset pads, the program says not in sync and the LCD resets with the older firmware instead of downloading the new file.

I have the paperclip just barely touching the pads and I'm pulling it as soon as I launch the file with my other hand. Anyone have any other tips for success? The only other computer I have is an OrangePi running Debian, but I wouldn't know how to try using it.
 
Bump. Still no joy. With the paperclip just barely shorting the reset pads, executing the batch file and immediately removing the paperclip - I cannot get the LCD to take the update.
 

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If you have Windows 11, you can't use the USB-Serial cable... the driver doesn't work with Windows 11. You'll either need to find a Windows 10 box to do the update, or get the USB-Serial "dongle" that we are now selling that supports Windows 11 (it's $8).
 
I'm using the CP2102 USB dongle with the drivers from silabs.com. Windows recognizes it and it works with the TRS. I just can't get the LCD to take the update from the 1.11b version.
 
I haven't flown the TRS yet, but I was able to use Putty to reset the TRS and change the channel and ID. It also reads and writes the main settings, so I assume it is sending and receiving information.

Back the LCD, I wired in a switch to the reset pads and still no joy.
 
If you have one laying around, try putting a 2-pin header and a shorting jumper on the RST pads. That seems to work well. I'm assuming you put a slide switch on it, they bounce a lot so that's probably not much better than the paperclip.
 
I have tried a slide, momentary and a pull-pin switch without any luck. I don't have any extra headers or jumpers handy. This is pretty frustrating.
 
If you're using the cable with the Prolific chip, use the driver on our web site. DO NOT use the one that comes with Windows, or the current drivers on the Prolific site... they no long work with the cable.

Here's some tips for flashing the Atmel chips in the Eggtimer Classic, LCD receiver, Eggtimer TRS, and the Eggtimer Voice Module.

Keys to success updating the Atmel processors (Classic, TRS, LCD, EVM):

If you have the USB-Serial cable, don’t use the Prolific driver that comes with Windows, it does NOT work properly. Also, the latest Prolific driver from their web site won’t work with the cable either. Instead, download the one on our web site,

https://eggtimerrocketry.com/home/support/
(If you’re using the USB -Serial “dongle” for Windows 11, follow the driver/connection instructions that came with it, or see our Support page for directions).

Set your COM port to COM2 in Device Manager, we recommend COM2 unless you actually have something on it (which is extremely rare nowadays). If Windows complains, ignore the warning... it's just Windows being Windows.

Don't push the paperclip jumper across the RST pads in too far, it only needs to go in far enough to contact the pads. If you push it in "all the way", it may bounce when it comes out and reset the processor.

Pull out the paperclip IMMEDIATELY after launching the .bat file. This is time-sensitive... but ones you get the rhythm it gets easy.
 
For anyone reading this thread, I solved my problem with a CP2102 dongle. I have previously been successfully flashing firmware on all my other devices (TRS, Quantum, Proton) with either an FTDI cable or a generic Prolific one, but for some reason I kept getting the not syncing error with both of them (using windows 10) trying to flash the LCD module. Purchased a CP2102 USB to TTL dongle for $5 off amazon (I'm in Australia) and success fairly quickly - having prob wasted 5-6hrs trying various methods with the other cables including building my own usb to TTL with an arduino.
 
Nick Hutton said:
For anyone reading this thread, I solved my problem with a CP2102 dongle. I have previously been successfully flashing firmware on all my other devices (TRS, Quantum, Proton) with either an FTDI cable or a generic Prolific one, but for some reason I kept getting the not syncing error with both of them (using windows 10) trying to flash the LCD module. Purchased a CP2102 USB to TTL dongle for $5 off amazon (I'm in Australia) and success fairly quickly - having prob wasted 5-6hrs trying various methods with the other cables including building my own usb to TTL with an arduino.
Click to expand...
I have a similar Dongle that I got from Chris, but I'm having the same problem. It's maddening.
 
Go to our web site and under the Support tab there's a document for the USB-Serial dongle. It uses a different driver than the cable (which is why IT works with Windows 11 and the cable DOES NOT). Read all of the hints... especially the function-to-color mapping (most of our docs were written before the dongle shipped and reference the cable's colors, not the functions, whereas the cable colors on the dongle aren't fixed).

There's also a Tips sheet for updating the firmware on Atmel processors... that's pretty useful too.
 
Keys to success updating the Atmel processors (Classic, TRS, LCD, EVM):

If you have the USB-Serial cable, don’t use the Prolific driver that comes with Windows, it does NOT work properly. Also, the latest Prolific driver from their web site won’t work with the cable either. Instead, download the one on our web site,

https://eggtimerrocketry.com/home/support/

(If you’re using the USB -Serial “dongle” for Windows 11, follow the driver/connection instructions that came with it, or see our Support page for directions).

Set your COM port to COM2 in Device Manager, we recommend COM2 unless you actually have something on it (which is extremely rare nowadays). If Windows complains, ignore the warning... it's just Windows being Windows.

Don't push the paperclip jumper across the RST pads in too far, it only needs to go in far enough to contact the pads. If you push it in "all the way", it may bounce when it comes out and reset the processor.

Pull out the paperclip IMMEDIATELY after launching the .bat file. This is time-sensitive... but ones you get the rhythm it gets easy.
 
cerving said:
Keys to success updating the Atmel processors (Classic, TRS, LCD, EVM):

If you have the USB-Serial cable, don’t use the Prolific driver that comes with Windows, it does NOT work properly. Also, the latest Prolific driver from their web site won’t work with the cable either. Instead, download the one on our web site,

https://eggtimerrocketry.com/home/support/

(If you’re using the USB -Serial “dongle” for Windows 11, follow the driver/connection instructions that came with it, or see our Support page for directions).

Set your COM port to COM2 in Device Manager, we recommend COM2 unless you actually have something on it (which is extremely rare nowadays). If Windows complains, ignore the warning... it's just Windows being Windows.

Don't push the paperclip jumper across the RST pads in too far, it only needs to go in far enough to contact the pads. If you push it in "all the way", it may bounce when it comes out and reset the processor.

Pull out the paperclip IMMEDIATELY after launching the .bat file. This is time-sensitive... but ones you get the rhythm it gets easy.
Click to expand...
I have done all these troubleshooting steps already, like the previous poster I have several hours into just trying to update the firmware so that I can use it with my Quasar. Running Windows 10 I have tried both your newly supplied dongle and a usb cable. plugged and re-plugged all the wires and pins over a dozen times. Tried changing the timing of removing the reset jumper at least 20 times. Removed and reinstalled the drivers you suggested multiple times. At my wit's end here. Love your stuff, but this firmware process has got to get into the 21st century, please!
 
Just wanted to follow up as Cris and I have been emailing the past couple of hours. I had given up in frustration and gone to bed. While in bed I received one more email from him with a suggestion. This was my response to him.....


Okay, I couldn’t stay in bed without trying again. So I reversed the tx and rx wires as you suggested. Worked like a champ. I feel stupid, but I’ll still go to bed happy! Thanks again.
Click to expand...
 
Question: Can you update via Linux? Or, is it only from Windows? (I'd rather not have to try to bring a Windows machine up to do this!)

NVM. RTFM to the rescue.

I wonder if I could use the Arduino IDE to update it?
 
Last edited:
John Kemker said:
Question: Can you update via Linux? Or, is it only from Windows? (I'd rather not have to try to bring a Windows machine up to do this!)

NVM. RTFM to the rescue.

I wonder if I could use the Arduino IDE to update it?
Click to expand...
Even easier, once I dug into Chris' .BAT file:

The attached file has the necessary files. You'll need to rename it to change the extension to .tgz

This process requires the Arduino IDE to be installed.

Extract the files into a directory called EggFinder (location is not important. It could be in $HOME/EggFinder)

Bash: 
$ mv eggfinder_lcd_2_03Q_ham.txt eggfinder_lcd_2_03Q_ham.tgz
$ mkdir EggFinder
$ cd EggFinder
$ tar xzvf ../eggfinder_lcd_2_03Q_ham.tgz
$ ./eggfinder_lcd_2_03Q_ham.sh

Voila!

Basically, avrdude under Linux does the same thing that avrdude under Windows does. It comes with the Arduino IDE.

Since we're using the default avrdude.conf, I simply pointed it at the system-wide /etc/avrdude.conf. The USB dongle shows up on /dev/ttyUSB0 (unless you have more than one plugged into your computer.), so that change was easy. I also changed all the backslashes (stoopid Windoze!) to forward slashes and changed the path of the .hex file to point to the current working directory. Everything else is the same command line as the WinAVR version.

I haven't looked at any of the other update files on the EggTimer website, but if they all use avrdude, similar changes can be made to those. You can copy the .BAT file to a .sh file, then edit appropriately. I did not add the -x (which does the same as the 'ECHO ON' statement in the .BAT file) switch to the bangpath line at the beginning, as I didn't feel it needed it, being such a short script. If you really want to see the one command echo to your terminal window during execution, just add the -x switch yourself. (Don't forget to add a space before the switch!)
 

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I wish the cabling that was supplied with the dongle had the same colors as the cable, but that's not how they're shipped... they come with varying colors. That's why the document says to map the colors to the function so you know which one is now "green", etc.

Going by FUNCTION this is how it needs to connect for programming:

LCD Old Cable DONGLE
GND BLACK GND
TXD WHITE RXD
RXD GREEN TXD

That’s different than when you connect an OpenLog or Bluetooth module, because you’re talking to the RF module with those devices so the legends need to be the same.

I'm going to put this in the LCD flashing document.
 

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