Rocket not launching (broken launch controller)
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Absolutely should not, that's fairly unsafe and definitely a violation of the Model Rocketry Safety Code.
Can you tell us what your launch controller is or isn't doing that makes you suspect it's broken?
Can you tell us what your launch controller is or isn't doing that makes you suspect it's broken?
Thing good will happen from standing close enough to do that.
It would have to be a K or larger motor to fit that barbecue lighter all the way in, but if it fits, go for it.
If his health insurance doesn't have a Darwin clause, they will still pay for his ER and Burn Unit medical bills which he will definitely need. Probably higher medical bills for trolls than for humans....
If his health insurance doesn't have a Darwin clause, they will still pay for his ER and Burn Unit medical bills which he will definitely need. Probably higher medical bills for trolls than for humans....
the led won't turn on so I opened everything up and its all in place, it should be working I don't know why it wouldn't... (its the newer Estes launch controller which came with the starter kit)
no trolls here...
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How new are the batteries, and do you get a continuity test when you clip the leads to each other?
The LED will only light when you have continuity through the igniter or if you touch the clips together. The LED will not light if the LED is bad or the batteries are bad or backwards. Even so you may be able to light an igniter.
Check the batteries. Try the launch controller on a spare igniter that’s safely separated from anything flammable or your eyes or skin.
The batteries are brand new and there is no continuity when their clipped together
You must push the round safety pin in first,and hold it in, then push the square launch button. It will not come on if you push the square button first.
shreadvector
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For the orange controller from Estes with the 9v battery:
1) Must be fresh ALKALINE 9 volt battery. Test it with a voltmeter (free from Harbor Freight with coupon). If it has less than 9 volts it is NOT 'fresh'.
carbon-zing batteries - sold as "heavy duty" - are crap and cannot delvier the required current.
2) The safety key is a pin that has a rubber thing that pushes it out of the hole for safety. You MUST push it HARD to make contact. AND, even if you push it hard, it can be loose, so you may have to wiggle it as you push it to make contact inside. The continuity lamp will only light up if the micro clips are making contact with each other or connectedto a good starter or igniter.
3) If everything appears to be good, and you press in the safety key and then simultaneously press in and HOLD the launch button, the tiny bridge wire at the tip of the Starter will glow red hot. if it is not glowing red hot, and it is just 'heating up a bit', then you have a problem: could be dirty clips, weak battery, safety key not pressed in for full contact, broken wires inside the launch leads (usually near the clips, but they could be anywhere - especially if you wrap the leads around the controller when storing or transporting it, which helps break the wires inside. NEVER do that.
1) Must be fresh ALKALINE 9 volt battery. Test it with a voltmeter (free from Harbor Freight with coupon). If it has less than 9 volts it is NOT 'fresh'.
carbon-zing batteries - sold as "heavy duty" - are crap and cannot delvier the required current.
2) The safety key is a pin that has a rubber thing that pushes it out of the hole for safety. You MUST push it HARD to make contact. AND, even if you push it hard, it can be loose, so you may have to wiggle it as you push it to make contact inside. The continuity lamp will only light up if the micro clips are making contact with each other or connectedto a good starter or igniter.
3) If everything appears to be good, and you press in the safety key and then simultaneously press in and HOLD the launch button, the tiny bridge wire at the tip of the Starter will glow red hot. if it is not glowing red hot, and it is just 'heating up a bit', then you have a problem: could be dirty clips, weak battery, safety key not pressed in for full contact, broken wires inside the launch leads (usually near the clips, but they could be anywhere - especially if you wrap the leads around the controller when storing or transporting it, which helps break the wires inside. NEVER do that.
Here's what I did, step by step:
1. Replace battery
2. Remove rubber ring from safety key
3. Buy Quest launch controller.
No problems since 3.
EXCEPT: every once in a while an engine has a bit of clay plug covering the BP and no amount of battery juice in the world will light it. Then ream out with tiny screwdriver to expose BP and launch your rocket.
Edit to correct spelling.
1. Replace battery
2. Remove rubber ring from safety key
3. Buy Quest launch controller.
No problems since 3.
EXCEPT: every once in a while an engine has a bit of clay plug covering the BP and no amount of battery juice in the world will light it. Then ream out with tiny screwdriver to expose BP and launch your rocket.
Edit to correct spelling.
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