Estes Saturn V #1969 Build - Let's share ideas and experiences...

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Pix of my shame..

I was going with the Centuri approach of painting the black first, then the white.
I did end up with a minor run that I sanded out

While I was masking is when I discovered the length was more than the directions as I knew the black should have reached the stringers.

I primarily used the Go2Gel for applying the wraps, with some touch up with the plastruct. The wraps are on solidly

IMG_4665.jpg
 
No shame here, buddy. Just proves you're human, like everybody else.
At this point I would not attempt to remove the wrap. Leave it in place, and mask and paint AS THOUGH the corrugations are correctly placed. From five feet away all you really see is the paint pattern anyway, not the corrugations. Do the same with the decals.
Sometimes I wish I had two of every kit I build, so that I could make all my mistakes on the first one and do a perfect job on the second.
I'll bet that 99% of the general population would not know that your wrap was out of place.
If it's any consolation, I did almost the same thing with my Dr. Zooch Saturn V about five years ago. It was around 2:30 AM, I was half asleep, but I wanted to get that one last wrap on the model. I lined up the top of the midwrap to the reference line instead of the bottom:
0529191954.jpg
Here it is next to the correctly placed Estes wraps on a Semi-scale Saturn V clone.
Needless to say I don't do detail work when I'm half asleep any more. Lesson learned.
Whatever you decide, wishing you the best. Cheers.
 
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I agree with kuririn. Mask and decal as if the wrap is in the right position. Almost no one will notice.
 
For those of you that might not have heard, Chris Michielssen (hcmbanjo) has started a #1969 build a couple of weeks ago on his blog:
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2019/05/estes-saturn-v-1969-build-part-1-parts.html
LOTS of tips, tricks, and gotcha heads ups to look out for.
Highly recommended.

Thanks BAR!
Here's the title for the SEARCH window on the right side of the page, 1969
That will take you the latest post of the new Estes Saturn V.
Scroll down to go back to the beginning.
 
Just a pic to let everyone know that there IS payoff at the end of the build! Lifting off with an E12-4 .... I photoshopped the LES into the pic for realism, as I launched without it to avoid losing it! Saturn V liftoff.jpg
 
Pix of my shame..

I was going with the Centuri approach of painting the black first, then the white.
I did end up with a minor run that I sanded out

While I was masking is when I discovered the length was more than the directions as I knew the black should have reached the stringers.

I primarily used the Go2Gel for applying the wraps, with some touch up with the plastruct. The wraps are on solidly

Looking better after my repair!

IMG_4674.jpg
 
Looks great! So tell us what you did to get the wrap in the right place without any damage.
 
Without damage? Well.....
Do you call butchering the body "damage"??
Rather than trying to remove the wrap, I cut that section of body out plus an equivalent length of tube below the wrap.
I had a spare BT101 tube from a scratch build that I cut down into a coupler. Glued the pieces to the coupler and then glued it all back together. Used some rubber bands, angle irons, and weights to ensure the stack was straight. Overall, for the cuts I probably lost about 1/16" of length, which should be insignificant. But with the added weight of the "coupler" I will add a bit more weight to the nose.
To re-join the motor tube, I used one of the yellow tubes Estes provides for pushing the motor block in. Then a bunch of putty and filler and primer and paint....
I've always felt my rocket building experience has not allowed me to always build right, but has taught me how to FIX the things I did wrong....

But it took a bunch of deep breaths BEFORE I made that first cut...

IMG_4666.jpg IMG_4667.jpg IMG_4668.jpg IMG_4672.jpg IMG_4673.jpg
 
I am getting ready to get WAAAY over my head on this build. Most difficult build I have accomplished so far has been a Mercury Redstone and I was happy with how it turned out.

I did have one NOOB question though on the motor mount. Is there anything I need to do differently if I want it to be capable of flying on Aerotech single use 24mm motors? Will they work with the Estes motor retainer clip and motor block? I would like to be able to choose to launch it with one of their F motors if I choose. Thanks for your help!
 
The Estes clip that comes in the kit is for motors that are 3.75 inches (95mm) long. If the Aerotech motor is that length or shorter, you’ll be fine. I believe all the 24mm Aerotech motors are 3.75 inches or shorter, but you should check on the website. FWIW, I’ve flown an E-30 and E-15 with the motor mount and clip installed no problem.
 
THis is intended NOT to be a build thread. Many of us have ordered and are now receiving our Saturn V's for the 7/20 launch. Some of us have started, including me. Why don't we share experiences and ideas so that we can make our builds go smoother and avoid potential disasters.

Here are some of the things I have noticed so far.

The main airframe is THIN... Real thin and before you start marking the tube or filling the spirals I strongly suggest building your motor tube first. Once it is done, install it and make sure all the glue is dry. That way the airframe is supported and is less likely to be damaged.

The motor clip tube fits very snugly onto the clip. I used yellow glue and it grabbed its position before I could slide it down all the way. I suggest using 2-part 5-minute epoxy instead because for the first couple minutes before it starts to set, you can move the tube fairly easily. Instead of having 3-4 seconds, you have about 90.

The instructions do not call for gluing in the forward CR. Poppycock!. It needs to be glued but you have to do it after the motor tube assembly is installed. See next paragraph.

The CR's fit loosely. I used 5-minute epoxy after the issue I had with the motor clip retainer. After the glue sets when you glue the assembly in place, you should go around the CRs with 5-min. epoxy where they meet the airframe both on the forward CR and the aft CR.

Once the motor assembly is in place and additional glue has been added to the CR's, it is a lot easier to mark the airframe.

Finally, I used masking tape to hold the area around the tab that glues the ends of the 3rd stage cone together. I flattened out the connection so the tab got a firm flat position. Here's a photo. Once the glue dries, I should have a pretty good bond.
View attachment 374109

Looking forward to reading other experiences.
Well I screwed up my cone last night. The instructions are not very clear and after gluing the cone together and trying to fit it to the coupler I realized that the bottom end doesn't fit over the coupler tube. So I'll have to make a new one assuming I can find the right weight paper. I bought another kit in order to get the main body tube that Estes was dragging their feet on getting to me so I could rob the cone out of that one and replace it later. Mine came with a serious defect in the main BT.


Mike
 
Well I screwed up my cone last night. The instructions are not very clear and after gluing the cone together and trying to fit it to the coupler I realized that the bottom end doesn't fit over the coupler tube. So I'll have to make a new one assuming I can find the right weight paper. I bought another kit in order to get the main body tube that Estes was dragging their feet on getting to me so I could rob the cone out of that one and replace it later. Mine came with a serious defect in the main BT.


Mike
What defect did you have in your BT? Mine arrived significantly egg shaped. Waiting on my replacement to arrive in the next few days. Estes customer service is top notch.
 
What defect did you have in your BT? Mine arrived significantly egg shaped. Waiting on my replacement to arrive in the next few days. Estes customer service is top notch.
My main BT had a large area that was de-lamanated, probably could have pushed my finger through it without much difficulty. Took them a while to have replacement parts available. I am struggling with the 3rd stage paper transition. I finally think I have a handle on it. Had to rob the transition out of the new kit so I'll have to order replacements for it as well. I absolutely hate paper transitions. If I had a lathe I'd turn a balsa one.



Mike
 
My solution to the 3rd stage foundation transiton wrap (large one) being slightly to small was to use OpenRocket and print several from BT101 to BT80 on 110lb cardstock then adjust one to perfect fit, and a second to fit inside it (again a very small tolerance fit) then coat the inner with 20min BSI epoxy and laminate the inner and outer together (I did not use a joining strip on the outer shroud just the inner one). The outer shroud was held together with scotch tape until the epoxy cured.

Inner and outer shrouds
RichsSaturnV1.jpg

Joining strip on inner shroud only.
RichsSaturnV2.jpg

Inner and outer nested to check fit.
RichsSaturnV3.jpg


Both shrouds epoxied together, Scotch tape visible holding outer shroud seam together temporarily.
RichsSaturnV4.jpg

Second view of shroud showing limited amount of epoxy penetration through paper, probably 75%+ coverage.
RichsSaturnV5.jpg

Once epoxy mostly cured (not tacky) the transition shroud was slid into place to make sure it was properly round. The slight overhang on the lower edge will act to keep the upper section from sliding down inside the main tube.
RichsSaturnV6.jpg
 
Thought I would show the final results after the repairs....

If you look closely, you can see the line where the tubes were re-joined. But from a few feet away it is not noticeable :cool:

View attachment 385980

I did the same thing that you did with incorrectly positioning that lower wrap, and I figured it out when I was laying out the masking tape for the lower black stripes...
I'm gonna leave this one as is, I'll build my second kit over the winter when I have more time...
Anyway, what's the trick to getting the lines crisp across the corrugations? I spent some money on both 3M painter's tape, and I have the Tamiya yellow tape as well, and it bleeds through like crazy, really disappointing when it looks like crap after all this effort...

Any hints on how to get crisp lines would be appreciated!

Franz in NJ
 
Today I'm starting on one technique to get sharper black lines in and out of the corrugations on my blog:
modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com
 
Today I'm starting on one technique to get sharper black lines in and out of the corrugations on my blog:
modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com
Awesome!

Maybe I'll get back to mine. I got stuck on the "toughest" wrap...

Homer
 
how would u recommend i paint the body after finish details?
hand paint acrylic or spray paint?
if spray , should I cover wrap the heck out of the body ? how many coats awell
 
Anybody tried Pacer Formula 560 Canopy glue for attaching the wraps? iirc the Estes Mercury Atlas recommended canopy glue for its wrap.
 
I think mine is going to get one launch on July 20, then be retired. I have struggled with everything everyone else has, and I don't have the patience to fix it. Too much detail, and I have bad fingers and not a lot of spare time. Here's hoping for one good launch on an AT E15, and then to the shelf it goes.
 
Another angle with the paint. Basecoat was Tamiya Pure White Spray. Tamiya Silver Leaf spray was used for the fins and fairings and the black paint is airbrushed Tamiya X-19 semi gloss black.paint 2.jpg
 
And here we have the bird with the major markings applied. She's not done as I have a lot more minor markings to add from the Space Model Systems decal set designed for the Revell 1/96 kit. Most of the markings fit without requiring any resizing. Only Estes marking I have used thus far is the black reference target on Position II of the S-II stage.
paint and decals.jpg
 
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