Estes Big Daddy Build

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Karl

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Hi all, I haven't posted a build thread for a number of years so it's about time I pulled my finger out and got one done.

I scored a couple of the v2 Big Daddy kits on eBay a while back and the plan is to finish one in the original black, yellow & red livery and the other in the re-released colour scheme. Rather than doing two identical builds, i'll just cover one for now and the follow up when they're both done and in their ready to fly state. I had a hard time sourcing an original set of Big Daddy decals, I explored every avenue I could think of and came up short. Evenutally i settled on printing my own on waterslide decal paper although I'm not entirely sure how well they will look on black paint so I may end up getting a set from stickershock.

Anyway on with the build.

Most of this build will be completed with Titebond 2 wood-glue and a bit of epoxy in certain areas.

Here's both kits


Parts layed out for the first kit on the build table.


I decided to bend the forward end of the motor hook straight so I have the option to use longer CTI motors in the future if I wish to.


Forward CR glued to the motor-tube. I ditched the standard shock cord mount and decided to drill a hole in the CR to let a length of kevlar cord to pass through.


Firstly I tacked the kevlar in place with CA and then followed up with some 30min epoxy.


Motor mount glued into place.


Before installing the fins, the tabs got a liberal dosage of epoxy to adhere them to the motor tube. I then masked off an area for each fin before applying a wood-glue fillet. I decided not to fill the fin grain in the end as the primer I use is high-build and seems to do the job just fine.



More to come soon.
 
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I had a hard time sourcing an original set of Big Daddy decals, I explored every avenue I could think of and came up short.

Did you check stickershock23.com? If it isn't on his site, he still may be willing to do a custom order.
 
It seems a lot of people upgrade BD kits to 29 mm MMTs. When I had two in hand I did just that. Are you considering such a move?
 
Mbeels: I did check and they weren't listed on there but I have a scan of the original decal sheet I could send him. I'll do some testing with my water slide decals and see if they're worth bothering with. I just read somewhere that they don't work that well on dark backgrounds.

Jqavins: I did consider it. My original BD some years ago evolved into a 4x24mm config and as fun as it was, I think I'll keep these two stock. I always have the option of Pro 24 motors if I want to spice it up a bit.

Thanks for the comments all.
 
Like others have suggested, I highly recommend the nose cone modification. I modded the NC on both of my Daddys by cutting the shoulder off just above the angle and epoxying a light ply bulkhead with a eye bolt about 2" up inside the NC.
I'll be watching because I have a set of fraternal twin Big Daddy's as well.:)
 
Oh, dang, now you've got me trying to think up some sort of BD/SBB hybrid. Put a BD below an SBB as a booster? A BD on top of an SBB as a payload section? A BD in the middle, because Bertha is pregnant?

Maybe a 3" BD tube with SBB fins. Should I call it Big Brother? And a 2.6" SBB tube with BD fins called Big Sister?

What about the paint schemes and decals? Arrrgh, I won't get any more work done for the rest of the day!

No, wait, a Baby Bertha! With a scaled down BD color scheme.
 
I think upgrading to a 29 mm and lite center rings and modifying the nose cone as suggested would make this a fun rocket! I would also consider papering the fins with some type of copy paper. It will add strength without adding much weight.
 
Combining a Super Big Bertha with a Big Daddy? Couldn't the results be a Little Boy, Fat Boy, or in time a Fat Man even?
 
I think upgrading to a 29 mm and lite center rings and modifying the nose cone as suggested would make this a fun rocket! I would also consider papering the fins with some type of copy paper. It will add strength without adding much weight.

That is exactly the way I modded my Big Daddy. Build thread (Here).
 
Hi all, apologies for not keeping this thread updated ~ been a bit busy lately and had to parts of this project when I had a spare 10 mins.

Anyhow. The Titebond fillets did surprinsgly well, they held their shape without a great deal of shrinkage and I only had a handful of air-bubbles to sort out. After filling in any air bubbles with a bit more glue, I gave each fillet a thin layer of filler just to make sure they are all a uniform shape. So after a lot of sanding and two layers of primer, this is where we are up to. I'll be heading out later to pick up the paint, any tips on how to get the yellow tip of the nosecone nice and crisp would be much appreciated.

k6IteC4.jpg


Fbv1OrN.jpg
 
My best results for painting the tip of a nose cone utilized a scotch tape (or packing tape) mask, cut out on a piece of glass with a Xacto knife. The template can be a transition fairing of the right size. Then, after applying the tape mask, paint the base layer on top of the mask. If it bleeds under, it will match the paint color already there. Then, paint the tip color on top.
 
I was very successful this way: paint the tip color first. For a "mask", carefully place a piece of appropriate size body tube over the tip. I bit of Fun Tack or something on the inside to help hod it place might be helpful, but I just used one hand while holding the rattle can in the other.
 
I got two coats on the airframe today and the nosecone tip painted. Will get some more pics in the morning but here is the cone for now. I used some thin line masking tape and i'm really happy with the results so far, absolutely no bleed through. The black marks you can see are just pencil line. 20190521_202221.jpeg
 
Here we are, just awaiting decals and laquer now. Really happy with how it turned out.

0iPBsqM.jpg


vVsViyn.jpg
 
I think you did a great job, but why not just paint the top portion yellow and then mask it for the black so you don't leave two paint lines? Just spray over the yellow? Okay my OCD is kicking in sorry
 
Thanks for the comments all. I put the two thin coats of lacquer down on the decals today so maybe tomorrow ill get chance to give them a test.

Afterburners; You won't believe this but the place I got the yellow from had one tin left (its Fiat Broomhandle Yellow btw) and theres another project coming up soon that needs a lot of it so I tried saving some.
 
hi All, I am new to site. I used to build rockets 25 yrs ago, now I’m teaching my kids. While I help them build their crossfire and amazon. I am building the big Bertha and big daddy. I never got above c engines so here’s my shot. I already ordered a madcow 9x9 for the bd and I have Kevlar 380# cord. I want to mod my nose cone and tie to motor box. Anyone have good info or pictures for that.

I think I’m looking for a 3/16” eye bolt 4.5” long unless someone has a better idea to affix
 
hi All, I am new to site. I used to build rockets 25 yrs ago, now I’m teaching my kids. While I help them build their crossfire and amazon. I am building the big Bertha and big daddy. I never got above c engines so here’s my shot. I already ordered a madcow 9x9 for the bd and I have Kevlar 380# cord. I want to mod my nose cone and tie to motor box. Anyone have good info or pictures for that.

I think I’m looking for a 3/16” eye bolt 4.5” long unless someone has a better idea to affix

Welcome!

In the centering rings (CR), cut a very small notch on the inside diameter. Then glue them in place on the motor tube, with the notches aligned. Fish a straw between the two notches, and glue in place. Then using some Kevlar line, fish it inside the straw, and tie a loop with a slip knot on the end that will be on the bottom, and wrap it around the motor tube. You then install your mount normally (making sure to keep the kevlar line out of the way). Tie your shock cord of choice to the top end of the kevlar.
 
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