What did you do rocket wise today?

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So i gave "pulling" fillets a try last night for the first time, used microballons to make peanut butter epoxy, taped off the areas i didn't want to get sticky, and used one of those cake decorating metal ball things i have seen here on the forum to pull the epoxy mix along the joint. now remember i am about three beers deep by this time but i think the results speak for themselves. This is a great way to lay epoxy fillets! thanks to all the members who have posted about this method without your knowledge i would still be staggering around in the dark with Elmers glue. TRF rules! Chris fillet1.jpg Fillet2.jpg
 
This is where I chime in and say that Micromeister used to advocate instead for a coat of clear to seal off the tape lines before adding the second color, since the clear coat lays down thinner than paint and therefore creates less of a paint dam.

Disclaimer: I cannot vouch for either method.

I have a little bottle of clear paint that I brush onto taped edges for the same reason. Works like a charm.
 
Decided to make a fun rocket of my own design, A longer 30-06 cartridge rocket ! It will use a 18mm engine, and streamer recovery. Hopefully our weather will cooperate and our club can actually have a launch day. I'm thinking the clear fins will not be too visible during flight.
 

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Worked a little on the Prusa Mk3S printer. Wishing I'd thought to document this in a build thread in the 3D Printing forum.

At step 22/Many and you will note that I have found the supplied tools (a set of hex keys, a cross-point screw driver, and a pair of needle nose pliers) to be inadequate to the task.
 
This is one of my favorite stitches. I just made this one today. I am coming to the end of good quality footage. So it will have to be day to day from here on out. When I film it, there will be more.Spycam 4 E9  1-3.jpg
 
Do you expect much roll on that, like maybe you built it in on purpose? With those wide canted motor mounts and spin it'd leave a beautiful double helix smoke trail.
 
Do you expect much roll on that, like maybe you built it in on purpose? With those wide canted motor mounts and spin it'd leave a beautiful double helix smoke trail.
The fins are straight on this one, regardless of how it might look in the picture. Should go straight. Funny you should ask because I actually did think about canting to get the double-helix smoke trail, but figured I'd build just this one standard and then maybe in the future I'll build scratch build one designed to spin.
 
Tracked my order from AC Supply with my 1/100 Saturn V for the 50th anniversary launch, and the box contains a few other goodies. Gave a little Hooray when AT officially posted that the M1955DM is at certification this week, looking forward to acquiring at least one in time for SodBlaster II for the Nuclear Sledgehammer.
 
After receiving my RTF 1:200 Saturn V, I headed to Hobby Lobby to buy a few things and got an oldie/goodie for 40% off. Viva Hobby Lobby!

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I have a little bottle of clear paint that I brush onto taped edges for the same reason. Works like a charm.

I know that my brother (who does fine modeling) will spray a small puddle of the color on a piece of cardboard and then will dry brush along the masking tape, just enough to seal the edge, then he sprays the paint on and it never seeps in.
 
Tracked my order from AC Supply with my 1/100 Saturn V for the 50th anniversary launch, and the box contains a few other goodies. Gave a little Hooray when AT officially posted that the M1955DM is at certification this week, looking forward to acquiring at least one in time for SodBlaster II for the Nuclear Sledgehammer.
If there's another sparky contest this year then I bet we could broadcast it on pay per view. That big M sparky on your Sledgehammer will be amazing.
 
If there's another sparky contest this year then I bet we could broadcast it on pay per view. That big M sparky on your Sledgehammer will be amazing.
Not Sparkies this year......we will post what color motor is this years featured color as we get closer to the event.
 
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Worked a little on the Prusa Mk3S printer. Wishing I'd thought to document this in a build thread in the 3D Printing forum.

At step 22/Many and you will note that I have found the supplied tools (a set of hex keys, a cross-point screw driver, and a pair of needle nose pliers) to be inadequate to the task.

Okay, these are the additional tools I've had to pull out so far.

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The instructions are adequate, but annoyingly cute. The manual is printed from the HTML version -- down to the icons and the instruction to "click here for high resolution images". There are too many references to how this model differs from previous models of the printer -- I didn't build a MkII or a MkI so it doesn't do me any good to know that I shouldn't do something the way it was done building those machines.

Attaching the Y-axis timing belt was completely upside down and backwards.

The 3D printed parts haven't needed too much in the way of sanding or scraping to get the metal parts to fit -- until I had to get the two metal rods into the two orange plastic pieces in the X-axis assembly at the top of the image above. Even after cleaning out the mounting holes with rifflers and needle files, I still ended up whacking it with a dead-blow hammer to seat the rods all the way in. If I'd gotten it wrong there'd be no way to disassemble it. </rant>


I will document the build a little better going forward, and post relevant details to the 3D printing forum.
 
Shot some Krylon Fusion flat black on the Darkstar Jr. Decals from Stickershock are ordered, light orange and light yellow to fancy it up a little. I hope to fly it for the first time on an I180 next Sunday. I'd like to fly it first on an H, but I won't be home to sign for a Haz shipment so what I have is what I have.
 

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