Rustoleum Metallic question

So, after reading SkyPirate's blog about painting with Rustoleum metallics, I noticed he didn't mention the color of a base coat, if any. My current project will use the same paint, but I'm wondering if it would look better / deeper over a coat or two of similarly- colored gloss. That technique works with other effect coats... I'm thinking it should be worth a try on a test piece.

Amy thoughts or experience to indicate otherwise?

There aren't many colors maybe 8-10 I have used most. Some no need for primer at all, some yes. Which color are you using? On what?

Ps future posting.....re-read your post....no link to sky pirate, no mention of what you are painting or size or material...fiberglass, cardboard, phenolic,....spirals -no spirals etc.
If you want decent answers you need to supply better info.
I have extensive experience with this product, one thing to be aware of, again if it applies to you....if using trackers in your rocket, some report issues of transmission through metallic painted airframes. Personally I have had no problems with mine at ranges of several miles.
My DarkStar [black metallic Rusto] was painted direct over bare fiberglass looks great. 3in diameter.



My SpaceCowboy's are Blue/silver. Blue looks much darker/richer in reality than pics. 54mm & 3in diameter. Blue direct/silver white undercoat.
What's really nice about the Rusto;s metallic is recoat any time.

I'm painting standard Estes tubes. I've already primed them a bit and am in the process of leveling/sanding the primer. So no trackers.

I'll probably do a test piece either way and report back. I can't imagine it would hurt anything, but at the same time if there's no net gain, there's no reason to do it.

I generally go gray primer then flat white base before doing top coats. A white primer base would give similar results. I don't think you can go wrong with a light base. You can top coat with light or dark colors and get great results. Similarly white works great for glitter and metallic and helps it "pop." A dark base will take dark top coats fine, but light top coats over a dark base are generally a lot of work. Unless you're doing something like "multi-color purple glitter over black" for a "galaxy" effect.

That said I've never done a metallic over a dark base. Would it look deeper and richer? Maybe.

I've used the metallic dark blue over gray filler primer (also rusto) and it looks amazing. This is a LOC Vulcanite - cardboard tube - spirals filled with Elmers CWF. Have not had any noticeable issues with tracker attenuation. (TeleGPS in the nose cone) but the furthest it's drifted was about 1.5 miles, so beyond that who knows.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I decided to use some leftover BT60 to make a Super Alpha scratch build, and apply some of the advice from in here.

Here's what I did:

- Rubbed DAP PlasticWood into the Semroc repro balsa nosecone to seal it. It came out as smooth as a plastic cone, IMO.

- Papered fins using my usual Avery label method, with CA sealing the edges. Nearly perfect, but I think I'll do the DAP trick on the fins as well next time.

- Roughed up everything with some light passes of 220. I did this with the cone installed to smooth over the transition.

- Applied 2 coats of Rustoleum sandable filler/ primer. Leveled it with 220, added one more coat, leveled with 400.

- Applied 2 base coats of Rustoleum gloss white, leveled (more like rough polished) with 800, and added a final coat.

- Masked off the color fin with Tamiya tape (invest in good tape...seriously made the difference here). Burnished the tape down with a plastic spoon, sealed the edges with a dusting of gloss white, then applied a single even coat of Rustoleum metallic blue.

- Nosecone got 2 coats of Rustoleum Metallic Red.

I made sure to wait 24+ hours between each coat, except the last on the fin...I removed the tape while it was still tacky.

And here's the result:



Yeah, I know these aren't super alpha colors...I wanted a true upscale. Sticker StickerShock package should be here Thursday, then we clearcoat, install laundry, and go fly!

Very nice. I love the Rusto Blue Metallic. Heck, I love all the Rusto Metallics I’ve tried so far.

neil_w said:

Very nice. I love the Rusto Blue Metallic. Heck, I love all the Rusto Metallics I’ve tried so far.

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I noticed the blue, black, and silver in particular apply evenly without much effort on my part.

The red was the same for me, but I've read/ heard to avoid it. Warmer weather and lower rh definitely help.

The real test will be the clearcoat. If it makes these metallics pop like it did my glitter paint, it should be a definite win.

shanejohnson2002 said:

I noticed the blue, black, and silver in particular apply evenly without much effort on my part.

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Coincidentally, the exact three I have used.

I have considered several metallics for some projects that need paint, so far my only experience has been with the Ace Premium (Rust Stop?) Metallic in Midnight Black on the tailcone of my GLR NucSledgehammer. What was the issues with the red Rusto Metallic?

I've had great results with the Rusto Metallics.
Be very careful using masking tape over the metallic paint when masking for a second color.
Metallics can lift when you are removing the tape!

rharshberger said:

I have considered several metallics for some projects that need paint, so far my only experience has been with the Ace Premium (Rust Stop?) Metallic in Midnight Black on the tailcone of my GLR NucSledgehammer. What was the issues with the red Rusto Metallic?

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My sample of two has a 50% success rate. My redshifted Indicator turned out horribly, mostly because of lack of skill and knowledge.... but nearly every trouble spot on that one is Rustoleum red metallic.

The nosecone on my Super Alpha turned out fantastically though.

The webpage I mentioned in the original post (skypirate blog) says to avoid red. Not sure why.

I wonder if the red metallic needs lots of additional mixing, I have found that formerly problem paints worked great once they were very well mixed using a device that mounts in my Sawzall (actually a Milwaukee one too), I made the tool after seeing one in a photo somewhere. About a minute of the saw doing the shaking and inverting the can during the process really seems to help.

Black primer for colorshift and metal flake, light grey or white for all other metallics

those metallics shouldnt require any certain basecoat like pearls and candies.
HOWEVER
the rusto or krylon glitter paints like
https://www.michaels.com/krylon-glitter-blast/M10242160.html
or
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/glitter

should have a base the same color(or close to) as the metallics. they are a clear with metallic in them.

tomsteve said:

those metallics shouldnt require any certain basecoat like pearls and candies.
HOWEVER
the rusto or krylon glitter paints like
https://www.michaels.com/krylon-glitter-blast/M10242160.html
or
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/glitter

should have a base the same color(or close to) as the metallics. they are a clear with metallic in them.

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On my glitter paint, I bought gloss paint in (as close to as I could get) the same color to use as a base. For the metallics, I thought about doing the same process, but didn't want to add unnecessary weight. The Alpha nosecone was multiple coats of red over grey sandable filler/primer, and the fin was a single cloat of blue over gloss white (since that's what I already painted the body). Honestly I can't tell the difference between them as far as sheen / metallic-ness (metalicity?)

My payloader fins were a single coat metallic blue over metallic black. There again, can't really tell a difference between the gloss white base and the metallic black base.

I guess the moral there is the metallic paints seem to play nicely with just about any base I've used...as long as I follow the temp/rh and time recommendations on the can.

If you're going to paint anything chrome or gold, I'd definitely use gloss black as a base. If you're going to do color chromes (like the Duplicolor MetalCast or similar), I'd lay down a chrome base (so primer / black / chrome / color). Honestly though, considering how difficult it is to have a reflective metal finish stay that way under a clear coat, I'd just stick with the Rustoleum.

tho

swatkat said:

View attachment 378383 View attachment 378384 View attachment 378385 Black primer for colorshift and metal flake, light grey or white for all other metallics

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I'm sorry, but I'm reporting that color shift picture as pornographic.



<jealous>

shanejohnson2002 said:

I'm sorry, but I'm reporting that color shift picture as pornographic.
<jealous>

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Ease your mind by looking at what a can of the stuff costs; https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-254860-11-Ounce-Specialty-Galaxy/dp/B0058I2I5O

neil_w said:

Ease your mind by looking at what a can of the stuff costs; https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-254860-11-Ounce-Specialty-Galaxy/dp/B0058I2I5O

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Is it weird that I don't think it's that terrible of a price for the end result? I guess I've either reached that point where $29 is of little concern (not likely), or I'm willing to eat Ramen noodles for a day if it means getting a cool paint job (more likely).

As a note....this has to be some of the most even-spraying, quick-drying paint I've ever used. It's seriously that easy. I thought I applied too much to my fin but it evened right out on its own.

neil_w said:

Ease your mind by looking at what a can of the stuff costs; https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-254860-11-Ounce-Specialty-Galaxy/dp/B0058I2I5O

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BTW, it took 4 cans for a 4" 8 foot rocket. The cans go on really light.. EXPENSIVE paint job.

I'll see if I can post a "walk around" video. It looks awesome.

Walk around... you'll have to unzip the file as this forum won't allow .mp4

swatkat said:

Walk around... you'll have to unzip the file as this forum won't allow .mp4

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Well, it's official. You have ruined that rocket. Please send it to me for proper disposal.

Free of charge, of course.

LOL. I'm going to send it up here soon on a K1103X. should be a great launch.