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One thing I'm doing is using one side of the bed for PLA and the other for PETG. That seems to help since they have different cleaning regimens between prints.I did buy an extra PEI sheet when I bought my printer but it sure sounds like a pain to replace it.

Tony
 
One thing I'm doing is using one side of the bed for PLA and the other for PETG. That seems to help since they have different cleaning regimens between prints.I did buy an extra PEI sheet when I bought my printer but it sure sounds like a pain to replace it.

Tony


I have started using a whole bed the same way (front and back).
 
One thing I'm doing is using one side of the bed for PLA and the other for PETG. That seems to help since they have different cleaning regimens between prints.I did buy an extra PEI sheet when I bought my printer but it sure sounds like a pain to replace it.

Tony

Interesting idea.

One thing I just learned about my bed is that it is not level. I installed a plugin in Octoprint and it is telling me from the bed leveling data that the bed is warped from the the back left being slightly low and the front right being slightly high. My best printing spot looks to be in the center of the bed at this stage. Once the 7x7 or 9x9 bed leveling is part of the firmware then assigning specific sections of the bed for different filaments may become a better practice for me.
 
Interesting idea.

One thing I just learned about my bed is that it is not level. I installed a plugin in Octoprint and it is telling me from the bed leveling data that the bed is warped from the the back left being slightly low and the front right being slightly high. My best printing spot looks to be in the center of the bed at this stage. Once the 7x7 or 9x9 bed leveling is part of the firmware then assigning specific sections of the bed for different filaments may become a better practice for me.

That is similar to my results. It is level enough. My right front is my worse place to print.
 
My new e-bay is ready. For the Magswitch have printed raisings. The connection to ports is also printed.
The plug is a 15p pool VGA plug

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I have been reluctant to 3D print bulkheads up to now. That is bulkheads that are exposed to any kind of heat or load. This is why I purchased a 3D CNC router to mill the ends out of G10 plate, wood or CF. What is everyone's experience using 3D printed bulkheads that are exposed to deployment charges, how well are they holding up? What about the shock loads that are being transferred through the recovery system?
 
I've seen a number of folks using them for deployment charges so I don't think short term heat is a problem. I'm not ready to use a printed bulkhead without reinforcement though. I do have one purchased nose cone sled/bulkhead from Lab Rat Rocketry. It's a very high quality print, but he still recommends using a fiberglass bulkhead (or large fender washer) between the printed bulkhead and the sled for security.
 
If you make the parts thick enough they seem to survive. It is more of a problem at the Estes scale because you are trying to make the parts as thin a possible. On the bigger stuff I don't go below 60 thou on anything that will see heat, and everything is usually thicker than that for strength anyway. I use 3D printed recovery pistons a lot, and they don't have any thermal damage.
From a structural point of view, thickness is again your friend. I don't know quite where as-printed PETG fails, but I have been keeping it below ~1ksi and the parts have been holding up under normal use. I did have a printed nose cone bulkhead fail, but it really wasn't under normal circumstances (the motor blew by the delay and popped the chute at 3 or 4 hundred mph and the nose cone kept going). I use a printed cruciform bracket in Checked Baggage (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3164819) for the main shock cord mount and it has been holding up so far.
 

Nice addition to Thingiverse.

I would say that the filament choice plays a large role in the success of these components. For bulkheads you would want PETG at min and possibly some more exotic filaments may even be a better choice. I have no issue using PLA for internal sleds, which are basically just hanging off threaded rod with components mounted on them, so there shouldn't be much load or heat to consider.
 
Nice addition to Thingiverse.

I would say that the filament choice plays a large role in the success of these components. For bulkheads you would want PETG at min and possibly some more exotic filaments may even be a better choice. I have no issue using PLA for internal sleds, which are basically just hanging off threaded rod with components mounted on them, so there shouldn't be much load or heat to consider.
Agreed. One of the next things I want to try is printing with nylon. The heat tolerance and as-printed strength are pretty high. Ultem would be nice too, but I'm not that adventurous.
 
I have designed a switch. My son made it in tinker cad, but I came up with the idea.
 
Atlas parts for the Atlas GATV I started a few years ago and didn’t finish.

This is Amazonbasics PLA, and it’s given me fits. Fussy with the temperature. Hard to get to adhere. And it seems to under-flow no matter the setting. Not as easy as the Shaxon I got from Fry’s.

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I designed and printed a bevel sanding jig for my 98mm CF Mongoose. I had already sent the fins off to be beveled but was unhappy with the thick leading edge. The fins are .308" carbon plate and are huge. The jig is 1.5" wide, 2" tall, and 6" long. It has a 20 degree bevel, which is just a bit more than was on the fins. Thirty degrees would be better but that would be a lot of sanding. I've only gone through 80 grit but it's working very well. I'm using heavy-duty paper with a thick backing. It is very easy to change out the paper and adjust its tension. The bevel is very consistent the the leading edge is thinning out nicely. I plan to go to 220 grit to smooth out all the sanding lines.

PLA, 3 perimeters, 20% infill.


Tony

sanding-jig.jpg side-view.jpg end-view.jpg first-pass.jpg
 
I designed and printed a bevel sanding jig for my 98mm CF Mongoose. I had already sent the fins off to be beveled but was unhappy with the thick leading edge. The fins are .308" carbon plate and are huge. The jig is 1.5" wide, 2" tall, and 6" long. It has a 20 degree bevel, which is just a bit more than was on the fins. Thirty degrees would be better but that would be a lot of sanding. I've only gone through 80 grit but it's working very well. I'm using heavy-duty paper with a thick backing. It is very easy to change out the paper and adjust its tension. The bevel is very consistent the the leading edge is thinning out nicely. I plan to go to 220 grit to smooth out all the sanding lines.

PLA, 3 perimeters, 20% infill.


Tony

View attachment 377564 View attachment 377565 View attachment 377566 View attachment 377567

I am totally copying that, or do you plan on uploading it to Thingiverse?
 
I am totally copying that, or do you plan on uploading it to Thingiverse?
I probably won't upload this version since it's sized specifically for the Mongoose CF fins, which are not a standard thickness. But it's such a simple design that most folks should be able to replicate it for their specific dimensions. It would be pretty easy to model it in 3 parts to make the 'jaws' adjustable. I might do that and then post it. It also probably only needs to be 4" long for more typical fin sizes.


Tony
 
Finished up a sled design for 38mm minimum diameter rockets. It fits in a 3" long coupler and holds a Raven 3, 1s LiPo, and screw switch. My name and phone are embossed on the switch riser in the event someone else finds it before I do. The battery clip is printed separately then super glued on due to excessively stringy bridging when printed in situ. I'll work on bridging settings and integrate it later, but I declare this one done for now. I might take a soldering iron and do some plastic soldering to make sure the glue joint doesn't fail prematurely.

fDErnIml.jpg


8c75nLol.jpg
 
Finished up a sled design for 38mm minimum diameter rockets. It fits in a 3" long coupler and holds a Raven 3, 1s LiPo, and screw switch. My name and phone are embossed on the switch riser in the event someone else finds it before I do. The battery clip is printed separately then super glued on due to excessively stringy bridging when printed in situ. I'll work on bridging settings and integrate it later, but I declare this one done for now. I might take a soldering iron and do some plastic soldering to make sure the glue joint doesn't fail prematurely.

fDErnIml.jpg


8c75nLol.jpg

Nice...I have to say it is a real privilege having access to a 3D printer and free, albeit limited, 3D CAD software.
 
Nice...I have to say it is a real privilege having access to a 3D printer and free, albeit limited, 3D CAD software.
Agreed! I've had friends print a few things for me and I've bought a couple of printed things, but being able to just do it yourself is rewarding...and frustrating at times! The sled I purchased from LabRat Rocketry is a very high quality print, which is hard to appreciate until you start printing your own.
 
It's not directly rocket related (yet) but I started playing with nylon (https://taulman3d.com/bridge-nylon.html) The heat resistance and as-printed strength should be pretty high compared to PETG, although the cost is roughly doubled. First attempt at printing a Standard Reference Rook came out pretty good. The internal staircase and double helix came out good, and there was no major stringing. The only issue was that the bottom 3 layers peeled off the print. I had the Z-offset set for PETG, so I'm thinking the Z height was too high and I didn't get good layer adhesion in the first few layers.
 

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I am upgrading my Prusa with a 7 inch monitor on my octoprint and adding an octoprint to my Ender 3 and CR-10S Pro.
 
5 sets of 38mm retainers. I've had a lot of issues with this last batch of eSUN. Varying widths on the filament roll, so it gets stuck in the Bowden tube.
 
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