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Also, if you're straightening the front end of the hook and skipping the engine block, what do you have to keep the motor from pushing forward? I think I must be missing something.
 
kuririn said:
For standard engine hook installations,the engine block is to stop the front end of the motor hook from putting all the forward thrust pressure from the engine on one small spot, possibly damaging the motor tube. The block spreads the thrust over a wider area, i.e. the diameter of the tube. But if you are straightening the front end of the hook to allow for longer engines, how are you securing the hook to the motor tube? Seems like rear tape wrap or a screw on retainer would be easier.
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To answer your question the hook is attached with glue (Titebond) for half its length, plus the little plastic ring that is glued over it, and a strip of heavy kraft tape and more glue for good measure.

As to your explanation, I understand what you're saying but it's not like an 18 mm motor puts out all that much thrust. The C6 motor spikes up to almost 15N, a bit more than three pounds. I wouldn't have thought that would be enough to damage the tube in any way, even after multiple flights. Did Estes get reports of damaged motor tubes when only the hook was used in some rockets?

Best -- Terry
 
jqavins said:
Also, if you're straightening the front end of the hook and skipping the engine block, what do you have to keep the motor from pushing forward? I think I must be missing something.
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If I use commercial 18mm motors, a couple wraps of masking tape on the aft end should do. The Green Monkey Aerospace motor casings all have an integral thrust ring. Though I doubt I'll be putting the 7.75" motor in the Interceptor; that's likely to be an F or (possibly) a baby G.

Best -- Terry
 
prfesser said:
(Why have both a motor hook AND an engine block??? If you're using standard 18 mm motors the motor hook is quite enough to stop any forward motion of the motor.)
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Because the piece of the motor hook that extends into motor tube is small and might be bent or pushed outwards when a motor is installed by eager and inexpert fingers?
 
You mention 18mm experimental motors and a 7 3/4" case. Is that a composite motor? If so I would expect significantly more thrust than a BP Estes motor. Also putting a 7.75" case into an Interceptor MIGHT significantly change the CG ( just my guess). You may have to put A LOT of nose weight into that rocket to fly stable.
Joe, could be that the motors have a rear flange on them. Not familiar with the Green Monkey motors.
EDIT: corrected Alpha to Interceptor.
 
Professor,
A rear tape wrap is to prevent the motor from KICKING OUT at ejection, not to keep it from moving forward like a thrust block or engine hook tab.
 
kuririn said:
You mention 18mm experimental motors and a 7 3/4" case. Is that a composite motor? If so I would expect significantly more thrust than a BP Estes motor. Also putting a 7.75" case into an Alpha MIGHT significantly change the CG ( just my guess). You may have to put A LOT of nose weight into that rocket to fly stable.
Joe, could be that the motors have a rear flange on them. Not familiar with the Green Monkey motors.
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GMA was a brief foray of Neil Kinney's (husband of Nadine, of rocket photography/calendar fame). He made hardware for 13mm and 18mm composite research motors. And no, I wouldn't put the big case into the Interceptor anyway, I've waited too long for Estes to bring 'em back and for AC Supply to have 'em in stock. Most I'd do would probably be a D, maybe a baby E motor.
 
prfesser said:
GMA was a brief foray of Neil Kinney's (husband of Nadine, of rocket photography/calendar fame). He made hardware for 13mm and 18mm composite research motors. And no, I wouldn't put the big case into the Interceptor anyway, I've waited too long for Estes to bring 'em back and for AC Supply to have 'em in stock. Most I'd do would probably be a D, maybe a baby E motor.
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Sounds REALLY interesting. If you get a chance to launch them some videos would be nice. Cheers!.
 
I just bought a HamBird (Oddl's Pigasus) and some Covffee Cups (Fliskits UFFO) for some smoking hot fliers.
 
Bill Hanson said:
Took me a second on Google to figure out what you were asking. It's a MadCow 4" Fiberglass DX3XL -- but looking at the pics, they look almost identical.

Will be glad to get my L3 complete -- then I can build a rocket where the fin tips go below the bottom of the rocket. LOL.
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Wow, it really does look similar. Your DX3XL is looking good, good luck on your L3.
 
Box 'o goodies from Wildman! A Darkstar Jr. to make it's first flight at Red Glare?
 

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tOD said:
I'm glad I'm not the only one with a fancy rocket cradle made out of a box with a notch cut in it:D
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lol, ditto here....

tOD said:
Box 'o goodies from Wildman! A Darkstar Jr. to make it's first flight at Red Glare?
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The Jr is a fun build. Lot's of ways to go, as in mods, with that bird. I added a GLR tailcone motor retainer to mine.
 
tOD said:
I'm glad I'm not the only one with a fancy rocket cradle made out of a box with a notch cut in it:D
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For some LP kits I've made horizontal stands or cradles by folding and taping the face cards to make a pair of up-pointing tees, with or without notches.
 
Meditated upon how a body made up of an elliptical instead of circular cross section would be made, what its aerodynamic possibilities could be, what sort of stabilizing would I put on board, why not scale it up past a D motor if it works out, would it fly, and if so, would it fly well or sign its death certificate...? Would such a thing have an aerodynamic advantage or disadvantage in comparison to the Delta with two solids?
 

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