3D Printing Anyone have experience with Amazon PETG?

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DeepOvertone

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I've seen a few comments about it here and there in the forums but I'd like to dedicate a thread to it.

I've had mixed results with it and I'd like others opinions and experiences. Maybe even some help?

So here's my experience:

Creality Ender 3. Prints PLA wonderfully. For my first PETG prints I go with Amazon black PETG. I update my slicer with the higher temps and slow down my speeds. The stuff sticks to the bed just fine, and lays out well. Slight stringing compared to PLA but I expected that. The real problem was layer adhesion. I was printing something that was only a couple layers of wall thickness and when they were done, I couldn't even get them off the bed without falling apart. The snapped like a cracker. I had printed the same parts with amazon PLA and they were much stronger. So I certainly felt duped because PETG was supposed to be stronger than PLA. Printing specs were .2 layer height, 220-240C, 70C bed temp, 0-100% fan, 40mm print speed.

You can see in my print specs above some variables. I tried it all, different temps, different amounts of cooling fan, and even slowing it down to 40mm didn't help(I usually print PLA at 60mm). it was just like the layers wouldn't bond.

I did eventually have success with that same PETG on an XYZ cube at .01 and 50% infill. But that's a completely different animal than something with 2 layers wide walls.
 
It is good stuff but you have to have your Live Z nailed.

I slow down my print for the first layer. I used the same Z as PLA. My first later is at Nozel of 220 and bed temp of 110.
 
With PETG, you can get really good layer adhesion, but you need to kick the temp up until you do. I have a little test part I always print when changing filaments. Takes about 10 minutes to print at my normal layer heights. Then I destructively test it to check for things like layer adhesion. Usually smashing it with pliers is a decent test to see how it holds. It's not uncommon for me to wind up higher than normally expected for the filament. 270C is pretty common for me. For a new filament, I usually start in the middle of the range the manufacturer gives, then adjust based on testing. It's a balancing act, hotter gets better layer adhesion, but more likely to string. Far more likely if your Z isn't set right. If your first layer is 0.4mm, you should get that within +/-0.05mm when printing a single layer and measuring it. Measure at multiple points, to ensure you get a level part. Make sure you test with the cooling settings you intend to use. If you crank up the fan, you need to re-test.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1023717

That's the test part I usually use. It's a 2 layer wall for my printer (0.5mm nozzle). The tests break across layers when I get it right with the PETG I have here, mostly eSun. I haven't tried the Amazon brand filament.
 
Well I can't print beyond 240 because I have a bowden tube hot extruder. I'd have to purchase an all metal hot end. Besides,Amazon lists the upper limit of this filament at 240 anyway.

Can you explain what you mean about Live Z or if my Z isn't set right?
 
I print my PETG at 250C and it has EXCELLENT layer adhesion. Try cranking it up all the way and you will have a better printing experience. I have a Microswiss all metal extruder so I can print 250+, it's a relatively affordable investment. By live Z I assume he is meaning the distance it travels between each layer or maybe he just has some fancy feature haha. For PETG you want it to be pretty close to the surface so that it can melt into the previous layer and provide excellent adhesion, but if you get it too close it will be a stringy mess.
 
With PETG, you can get really good layer adhesion, but you need to kick the temp up until you do. I have a little test part I always print when changing filaments. Takes about 10 minutes to print at my normal layer heights. Then I destructively test it to check for things like layer adhesion. Usually smashing it with pliers is a decent test to see how it holds. It's not uncommon for me to wind up higher than normally expected for the filament. 270C is pretty common for me. For a new filament, I usually start in the middle of the range the manufacturer gives, then adjust based on testing. It's a balancing act, hotter gets better layer adhesion, but more likely to string. Far more likely if your Z isn't set right. If your first layer is 0.4mm, you should get that within +/-0.05mm when printing a single layer and measuring it. Measure at multiple points, to ensure you get a level part. Make sure you test with the cooling settings you intend to use. If you crank up the fan, you need to re-test.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1023717

That's the test part I usually use. It's a 2 layer wall for my printer (0.5mm nozzle). The tests break across layers when I get it right with the PETG I have here, mostly eSun. I haven't tried the Amazon brand filament.

I use eSun as well, they make excellent PETG filament. His limitation is 240C so he may have issues getting good layer adhesion without replacing his nozzle/extruder.
 
I use eSun as well, they make excellent PETG filament. His limitation is 240C so he may have issues getting good layer adhesion without replacing his nozzle/extruder.

Yes, at 240C I have some filament that doesn't adhere well. Often times, even 5C can make the difference. But if your hot end can't do it, I guess that's an issue. I wasn't aware there were still printers being made with that limitation. You could try disabling the part cooling fan, that might help enough to make a difference.

Note that the temp from the manufacturer is just a recommendation. It's not a limit, just an idea of what to expect. You might have to go higher or lower.
 
Yes, at 240C I have some filament that doesn't adhere well. Often times, even 5C can make the difference. But if your hot end can't do it, I guess that's an issue. I wasn't aware there were still printers being made with that limitation. You could try disabling the part cooling fan, that might help enough to make a difference.

Note that the temp from the manufacturer is just a recommendation. It's not a limit, just an idea of what to expect. You might have to go higher or lower.
I never print PETG with a fan and have never had any issues with overhangs. My Maker Select V2 used to be limited to around 240C due to the Bowden tube that would melt at higher temperatures. That's why I upgraded to an all-metal extruder so I can go up to around 280C.
 
I would be interested in hearing a comparison from anyone who has used both the Amazon and Prusa PETG.

I use and prefer the Prusa PETG over PLA, although I am having some fun with clear PLA. My Prusa PETG temps are 85 first layer on the bed then up to 90 from there and 240 first layer on the nozzle followed by 250. This is basically the stock Slic3r settings for the Prusa PETG. I experimented for a while there with higher temps and I will bump the bed temp up to 100 or even 110 on a larger, longer print just to mitigate the base warping.
 
I found that upping the temp on the bed and lowering the nozzle temp made the filament stick less to the nozzle and more to the bed.
 
I found that upping the temp on the bed and lowering the nozzle temp made the filament stick less to the nozzle and more to the bed.

I found that oozing is more of a problem with PETG vs. PLA. One thing you can do is partially preheat the nozzle so that the bed and nozzle hit their temps at the same time. Otherwise the nozzle heats up much quicker and while waiting for the bed it starts to ooze right off the start. This can result in drips during the 3x3 bed leveling, which can ruin your first layer and print.

There is another reason to preheat the bed and that has to do with the accuracy of the PINDA. I read several articles on this, which necessitated custom start gcode, but I didn't get good results so I abandoned it for now. I was also trying to use the 7x7 bed leveling along with the 3.5A beta firmware, so it was a lot of changes at once to deal with.

I plan on revisiting both of the custom gcode and 7x7 bed leveling firmware as soon as my full bear frame arrives and I have to essentially rebuild the printer anyway. Another suggestion that I read on the PETG oozing is to ensure retraction is set correctly along with slowing down the print but keeping the movements between printing quick.
 
I had trouble with Amazon PETG too. When the roll was new it was perfect. Half way through I started getting layer bonding issues and eventually I couldn’t even print circular shapes. The filament would just drag across in a straight line. I ended up increasing the extrusion multiplier a little. It was under extruding and not “squishing” into the previous layer enough. Not sure if it was just consistency or some environmental change that made it drift.

I’m also printing it at 240c, fans off.
 
I am going to try a new print surface tonight. I will let you know how well it works with PETG.
 
I just started a print with Amazon Basics PETG tonight, and can report later on the outcome. I had trouble early on with Amazon Basics PETG, but realized that my printer and Cura settings were off. After combing through all of the settings I am having near zero issues printing.
 
Well I can't print beyond 240 because I have a bowden tube hot extruder. I'd have to purchase an all metal hot end. Besides,Amazon lists the upper limit of this filament at 240 anyway.

Creality’s website lists these specs for the Ender 3:
Max Nozzle Temperature:255℃
Max Hot bed Temperature:110℃
 
I just started a print with Amazon Basics PETG tonight, and can report later on the outcome. I had trouble early on with Amazon Basics PETG, but realized that my printer and Cura settings were off. After combing through all of the settings I am having near zero issues printing.

Any feedback? I need to grab some new PETG and was looking at Amazon along with some local Canadian filament providers.
 
I've been using Matchbox PETG orange purchased from Amazon with good results using the generic PETG settings in the Prusa edition of Slic3r. It prints at 240 nozzle and 90 for the bed. I do kick the temp up to 245 for better adhesion when I print parts with very thin layers. The results have been very good. I am going to order some Prusa PETG soon since I have a credit with Prusa and have heard positive reviews of their filament.

However I was getting very strong adhesion and had a hard time removing small parts until I used the glue stick after cleaning with Windex. The manual specifically says not to use alcohol due to the strong bond of PETG which of course I did not read until after I started having trouble.

Tony
 
Good successful weekend. I had to clean the surface and sand with 1500 grit. PETG Sticks again!
 
Any feedback? I need to grab some new PETG and was looking at Amazon along with some local Canadian filament providers.
Esun PETG is top notch and is sold on Amazon. It prints like PLA and is extremely durable. Seems like people are having a good time with Amazon's PETG so that's also an option.
 
I will try eSun. I got 10 rolls of white Hatchbox for $110 and have been very happy with it. It occasionally fails but in general it is not too bad.
 
Sticking to the bed can be a problem with PETG depending on the type of bed. For PEI beds, I use glue stick to help it release. I've also started holding the bed temp at 45C until I remove the parts. Those seem to help removal. I've never had problems getting it to stick with PEI. It sticks a little too well.
 
Any feedback? I need to grab some new PETG and was looking at Amazon along with some local Canadian filament providers.

I opened up the Amazon Basics PETG and printed a coupler and baffle for BT-60 tube without issue. Tried to print a nosecone, and 12-hours in, the print started to delaminate. Granted, this was the 4th time I tried to print this cone, as the shoulder was sagging on the right side (not a PETG issue, but a printer adjustment issue). The delamination did not occur until I after I fixed the shoulder sag with some support. Very much discouraged. I reprinted the cone with Hatchbox PETG, and it turned out fantastic.

I should note here, Amazon Basics PETG is the same cost for most of the Hatchbox PETG (color dependant on availability).
 
I use a Polypropeline plate (looks like G10 fiberglass) from Tiny Machines. I coat the build area with Aqua Net hairspray.
 
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Slightly off-topic and possibly needs to be moved to a new or an existing thread, Chuck I will leave that to you. What are you 3D Printer Gurus doing for filament storage? Has anyone made one of the many heated, dry storage, DIY or commercial solutions out there?

At this stage I have about a dozen and a half spools in my stock and maintaining these ready to print seems a bit logistically challenging. I can see a humidity controlled solution in my future but not for the amount of spools that I am likely going to end up with in my stock.

Thoughts?
 
Slightly off-topic and possibly needs to be moved to a new or an existing thread, Chuck I will leave that to you. What are you 3D Printer Gurus doing for filament storage? Has anyone made one of the many heated, dry storage, DIY or commercial solutions out there?

At this stage I have about a dozen and a half spools in my stock and maintaining these ready to print seems a bit logistically challenging. I can see a humidity controlled solution in my future but not for the amount of spools that I am likely going to end up with in my stock.

Thoughts?
I don't have as many as you (currently at 8), but I keep all of my spools in a plastic cooler with 5 pounds of desiccant in the bottom. I haven't had any moisture problems yet.
 
Slightly off-topic and possibly needs to be moved to a new or an existing thread, Chuck I will leave that to you. What are you 3D Printer Gurus doing for filament storage? Has anyone made one of the many heated, dry storage, DIY or commercial solutions out there?

At this stage I have about a dozen and a half spools in my stock and maintaining these ready to print seems a bit logistically challenging. I can see a humidity controlled solution in my future but not for the amount of spools that I am likely going to end up with in my stock.

Thoughts?
I just keep them in the original bag if it's resealable with the included silica gel packages. If it does not have a resealable bag, I put it is a ziplock and put the silica gel into the bag as well. This is what I use for my PLA and PETG, no issues after years of storage in varying climates.
 
I just keep them in the original bag if it's resealable with the included silica gel packages. If it does not have a resealable bag, I put it is a ziplock and put the silica gel into the bag as well. This is what I use for my PLA and PETG, no issues after years of storage in varying climates.

Fortunately, because of the time of year, it is currently dry here in Toronto but our summer can get quite humid, so I know there is a problem brewing. I have been keeping filament in the bags with the included desiccant but I suspect I may have issues with at least some of the more sensitive filaments once summer arrives.

I don't have as many as you (currently at 8), but I keep all of my spools in a plastic cooler with 5 pounds of desiccant in the bottom. I haven't had any moisture problems yet.

I have seen several DIY enclosures including this one with a printed spool holder and a heating pad that helps to prolong the life of the desiccant.

 
Fortunately, because of the time of year, it is currently dry here in Toronto but our summer can get quite humid, so I know there is a problem brewing. I have been keeping filament in the bags with the included desiccant but I suspect I may have issues with at least some of the more sensitive filaments once summer arrives.



I have seen several DIY enclosures including this one with a printed spool holder and a heating pad that helps to prolong the life of the desiccant.

I've had mine in very humid and very dry climates, no issues at all even with PETG. Just keep them in the box, in a sealed bag, with the desiccant packets and you will have ZERO issues.

If you plan on keeping the filament for years, then maybe an enclosure is necessary. For most 3D printer owners the filament roll will be used within a year so it's not that big of a deal.
 
GA is very humid. I have a storage container for my filament and a food dehydrator. Both have worked well for me.
 
Hi, I just used PETGfor the first time and have only used filament from Prusa. It has been great to print with so far. sometimes the infill gets a bit stringy and the ends curl back is the only thing I have seen as an issue. I have read slowing the infill speed or trying the gyroid pattern may help. I printed this 5 fin rocket lower with internal venting for a 38MM casing this weekend. turned out GREAT!!. I was looking at the Amazon PETG but after reading this I just ordered more from Prusa.





MVIMG_20190126_192532.jpg MVIMG_20190126_175019.jpg
 
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