3D Printing Creality 3D CR-10s 3D Printers

Tips to PETG:

1. You must have you live z height correct.
2. Clean the bed with alcohol. I use 98%.
3. The when the bed is within 15 degrees of printing, clean it with Windex quickly.

If that fails, repeat 1,2, and 3 with blue tape applied to the bed.

I have never had those fail.

This weekend, I wil try ABS. I have printed a crap load of RRC2+ drill jigs while testing different bed material. Do you have an interest in adhesive qualities of bed materials?

I changed out the glass bed on my printer, as it has a slight bulge in the middle (concave on reverse side), so I replaced it with a Polypropylene build plate from Tiny Machines. The plate works great with PLA, no adhesive needed. But I am having adhering issues with PETG. I have had part parts pop right off the plate without adhesive, and cannot get parts to stick to hair spray, blue tape, or glue stick... I beginning t suspect the PETG I am using from Amazon Basics. I do use alcohol to clean my plate(s), but have not tried Windex yet. Thanks for the tips!

DRAGON64 said:

I changed out the glass bed on my printer, as it has a slight bulge in the middle (concave on reverse side), so I replaced it with a Polypropylene build plate from Tiny Machines. The plate works great with PLA, no adhesive needed. But I am having adhering issues with PETG. I have had part parts pop right off the plate without adhesive, and cannot get parts to stick to hair spray, blue tape, or glue stick... I beginning t suspect the PETG I am using from Amazon Basics. I do use alcohol to clean my plate(s), but have not tried Windex yet. Thanks for the tips!

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eSun PETG STICKS to blue tape. It prints the same if not better than PLA. I have had nothing but issues with Hatchbox PETG as it has a terrible stinginess.

DRAGON64 said:

... then was told that the club frowns on 3D printed rockets and reserves the right to deny me the time to fly it... Kind of a nip in the nuds with that project.

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What is the rationale behind this? Has there been some bad experience? ... sort of sounds like a baby/bathwater thing.

Hatchbox PETG works wonders for me. I also have ad good results with Amazon PETG. I absolutely love the stuff. I have one roll of PETG that is terrible.

cwbullet said:

Hatchbox PETG works wonders for me. I also have ad good results with Amazon PETG. I absolutely love the stuff. I have one roll of PETG that is terrible.

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Guess it is just their white PETG that sucks, maybe they have fixed it by now.

Not sure. The good results I received was with white PETG. Did you use Windex?

cwbullet said:

Not sure. The good results I received was with white PETG. Did you use Windex?

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I have really old PETG from them and it was extremely sticky and printed like a blob. No other PETG I have used has ever done that. I use a heated (60C) bed with blue tape on top of the glass when I'm printing certain materials. Some of my PLAs and PETG are sticky enough to be printer directly onto the glass, but not many. Blue tape is cheap and great.

Yes. Blue tape is awesome. I found some stringing with both Amazon (Black) and Hatchbox (white). I still get some on occasion but it vastly improved with 2 changes.

1. Clean bed with IPA (not beer).
2. Apply Windex within 10 degrees on printing and whip dry.

cwbullet said:

Yes. Blue tape is awesome. I found some stringing with both Amazon (Black) and Hatchbox (white). I still get some on occasion but it vastly improved with 2 changes.

1. Clean bed with IPA (not beer).
2. Apply Windex within 10 degrees on printing and whip dry.

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PETG loves to string, no matter what you do with it.

I just clean my bed with isopropyl.

Ben Martin said:

PETG loves to string, no matter what you do with it.

I just clean my bed with isopropyl.

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No doubt about that.

The gentleman who told me about the club frowning on 3D printed rockets said he was allowed to fly this past weekend... Don't know any more than that.

After futzing with the printer for days, I found out that my .2mm nozzle was near plugged closed. I will have to heat it good to get it cleaned out. Until then, I had two spares so I just put a new nozzle on, and printed the Amazob Basics PETG perfectly on polycarbonate w/ AQUA NET hair spray (uncented). The part I printed took 13 hours and 9 minutes to print. Nozzle was set at 235c and the bed at 75c. The part resolution was set at .1mm, as was the starting layer. The print did get very fine hairs on it from the stringing, but those whisped away easily with a hot air gun.

Finished part was very nice... unfortunately the part did not work well on the scope. I either need a nautilus type parallax wheel, or go to 6" wheel. The 5" I printed was too small to get all of the required yardage markers layed out on it. They tend to bunch at the longer ranges, and I ended up with markers placed on top of markers. I will probably sell the wheel to someone who does not need the finer resolution markings etc.

Now on to rocket relayed parts.

Look up how to do a cold pull on your printer.

Years ago, before I knew what I know about creating stl files, I modeled up all three fuel grain types for the now defunct SkyRipper motor systems. lets just say the files sucked. I am going to remodel the grains and generate new stl files for release. This time though, I will print my own to ensure they work correctly this time. Once generated and proved, I will post the files either/or in the Hybrid 2018 thread, and a new thread in the research forum.

I went ahead and pulled examples from each motor system to model, and brought them into work today, should be fun!

The SkyRipper stl files have been posted to Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3190606

I am just starting work on a very interesting 3D printed project. One of the TRF members has posted a project to Thingiverse called "Checked Baggage". The project is a mostly printed rocket designed around a 4" mailing tube. Not your ordinary 4-fin and a nose cone either. Depending on how you slice the files, I use CURA (ver 3.5.1), the files can range anywhere from 1 to 23 hours to print. There are lots of files too! This coming holiday weekend, I plan to print as much as I can, as it should be a fun project.

I am going the same after Thanksgiving.

Checked Baggage was a spur of the moment project that I decided to make just before the October HARA launch. Took about a week to print and build (the fins took 38 hours to print by themselves). Let me know if you have any questions!

TurbulentSphere said:

Checked Baggage was a spur of the moment project that I decided to make just before the October HARA launch. Took about a week to print and build (the fins took 38 hours to print by themselves). Let me know if you have any questions!

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Continuing with our conversation from earlier today; a .2mm nozzle did indeed appear to be restricting the flow of the Amazon PETG. I replaced with a .4mm nozzle, and the material seems to be printing nicely for the moment. I may have to re-pint everything I printed all weekend long if this test print goes well....

Moved to new 3D Forum

Awesome, thank for the new 3D print forum!

Lets keep it active and it will stay.

Well, my printer has been silent, as I spent the better part of the Christmas break printing gifts for the family... mostly Harry Potter stuffs. The plan now is to clean the printer, re-level (if needed), and get to designing and printing rocket related parts. To get things rolling, I printed this static display of the Nike Hercules. Here is the link:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2996936

I believe I set the scale doen to 75%. Read over the builders file notes, he indicates that with a few mods, this model could possibly fly... My printe however is static only.

Nice

DRAGON64 said:

Well, my printer has been silent, as I spent the better part of the Christmas break printing gifts for the family... mostly Harry Potter stuffs. The plan now is to clean the printer, re-level (if needed), and get to designing and printing rocket related parts. To get things rolling, I printed this static display of the Nike Hercules. Here is the link:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2996936

I believe I set the scale doen to 75%. Read over the builders file notes, he indicates that with a few mods, this model could possibly fly... My printe however is static only.

View attachment 371534
View attachment 371535

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Hmm, how hard do you think it would be to fly it on a cluster of 18mm or 13mm motors?

Tempting is it not?

So early on I was having issues with PETG material, specifically Amazon Basics. I blamed the printer, the material, I thoroughly blamed myself, but as it turned out it was not my nooby-ness at 3D printing, so much as it was my nooby-ness at setting up slicer software. The CR-10S is an awesome printer, and can only print as good as the file you feed it. I have been printing all weekend in PETG, with flawless ease. No stringing, excellent bonding of layers, and best of all, first layer adhesion. The more I print, the more I love this CR-10S.

As to PETG, well, it has become my go to filament for most all of my printing, especially where rocketry is concerned... and since I am a hybrid guy at heart, may even look into printing PETG fuel grains, but that is another thread in another forum.

I am very happy with my Prusa, but need a second printer. I am thinking about buying a larger printer.

I am looking at a second 3d printer. I am tempted to buy either the CR-10S Pro or CR-10 S4/S5. Any thoughts on which one?

https://www.creality3d.cn/creality3d-cr-10s-pro-p00253p1.html

https://www.creality3d.cn/creality3d-cr-10-s5-p00099p1.html

I have been looking at the pro. The S5 we have at work, and it is not working too well right now. Purchased with full upgrades available from tiny machines, and we have had issues with the add on auto leveling.

The pro has auto level built in from the factory I believe. I am quite happy with the size of the CR-10S, so the pro would fit right for me.

I want to print a 10-12 inch Saturn V. I guess the Pro would work for a 10 inch model.