I just printed my first attempt at the EX grain jig.
3D Printing 3D printer plunge
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What material did you use?
BryRocket
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Shoot me some feedback. On a few of the caps I had to use an blade to knock back some of the small burrs. Tolerances are pretty small.
BryRocket
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My first was in PETG and it was a touch to flexible. Second was in PLA and was more rigid and felt more appropriate.
gorillamotors
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Thank you.
I hadn't planed on doing it because there are some nice PI cases on Thingiverse. However my case is specifically designed for the Ender and I also designed it to test the precision of my present setup. I'll put up the files on Thingiverse this weekend. You should get a message when live if you are watching my Thingiverse channel.
I hadn't planed on doing it because there are some nice PI cases on Thingiverse. However my case is specifically designed for the Ender and I also designed it to test the precision of my present setup. I'll put up the files on Thingiverse this weekend. You should get a message when live if you are watching my Thingiverse channel.
I tried another Octolapse print while printing a nose cone. Normally the print would take approx. 3 hours but due to Octolapse it took an additional 2 hours. I don't think I will be doing these kind of recordings with long prints often.
Here is a great source for troubleshooting a wide variety of printing issues
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
matthewdlaudato
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I’ve come across that guide before, lots of good tips.
gorillamotors
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Either hydrated filament or your z is off?
It almost looks like your bed is not level. The layers on the bottom left look too thin and the layers on the top right look to high.
I think Michael P is corrrect. Another imortant thing besides a level bed is the distance between the nozzle and the bed for the first layers. If it is too far the filament will just sort of squirt out of the nozzle and fall onto the bed. You want the distance so that it is pushed onto the bed and adheres. I have a heated borosilicate glass bed and I use on of those subscription cards that are in most magazines as a feeler guage. I cut the card into 1/2" strips and adjust my bed so there is a slight drag when I pull it between the nozzle and bed.
Beds seem to go of level by themselves. Don't know why but I always check levelness before printing. Hope this helps.
Beds seem to go of level by themselves. Don't know why but I always check levelness before printing. Hope this helps.
Black PLA. Cheap first print.
After just going through the calibration routine with my newly built printer it does look like one of two things: your first layer calibration is way off or you had very poor adhesion.
I saw very similar results due to both things. When I was first starting the first layer calibration the filament did not stick very well at all and got dragged all over the place. But I also got a similar result when I cleaned the bed with IPA just seconds before it started printing and it did not all evaporate before it started printing. I had to stop the print before it turned into a mess.
Hopefully that's all it is.
Tony
I finally got my printer built and up and running. It went really well except Prusa sent me two of the same parts instead of a right and a left. Fortunately my son has a friend with a printer so he loaned me his to print a replacement part. Really helped having an already built kit to see exactly how everything went together.
I have several dozen Ellis Mountain 29mm H101 motors I need to fly. They are great motors but are now considered 'research' motors due to their age. So one of my goals is to make a bunch of 29mm rockets so I can fly several at each launch I go to. My first 3D printer project was a 29mm nosecone and fin can to fit some G10 body tube I got from Ellis. I used the fin can VCP posted and modified a nosecone file I found on Thingverse. I also made a coupler and bulkhead in OpenScad. I'm very pleased with the results. I used PLA for testing since it came with the printer but plan to use PETG for the rest of the ones I print.
So far I'm really happy with my Prusa MK3. I'm headed to MicroCenter tomorrow to buy a Raspberry Pi so I can set up wireless printing and a webcam.
Tony
I have several dozen Ellis Mountain 29mm H101 motors I need to fly. They are great motors but are now considered 'research' motors due to their age. So one of my goals is to make a bunch of 29mm rockets so I can fly several at each launch I go to. My first 3D printer project was a 29mm nosecone and fin can to fit some G10 body tube I got from Ellis. I used the fin can VCP posted and modified a nosecone file I found on Thingverse. I also made a coupler and bulkhead in OpenScad. I'm very pleased with the results. I used PLA for testing since it came with the printer but plan to use PETG for the rest of the ones I print.
So far I'm really happy with my Prusa MK3. I'm headed to MicroCenter tomorrow to buy a Raspberry Pi so I can set up wireless printing and a webcam.
Tony
You will love working with the PETG.
Here is a Loki 38mm Nozzle holder I just made for one my 38mm Husky tool box. The holders fit perfectly in the top front center tray and you can swap out the number indicators to suit your needs. I am just making one for 54mm Loki Nozzles to fit into the top customizable tray section.
Here are the files on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3317958
very nice
gorillamotors
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Do you have their phone number? My 3B+ just died and need it replaced? How did you contact Adafruit?
Microcenter also has them:
https://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.aspx?ntt=Rasberry+pi+b
There is one near my office but of course they also ship.
Tony
gorillamotors
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I tried that and they directed me to submit my defective 3B+ on their forum where everyone can see. Kinda stupid BS if you ask me!!
I had to do the same.
I really want to get the MMU 2.0 but I am hesitant to pull the trigger until I feel it is mature enough. Is anyone using the MMU 2.0, if so what is your opinion, ready for prime-time, pros, cons, etc. Also Prusa hinted about a completely new printing technology that they are working on and will be announcing in 2019, something that hinted as being a game changer, paraphrasing that last part.
I’ve not had experience with Prusa’s MMU. I choose to try a different route for multi-color, multi-material for my Prusa MK3. It’s the Palette II Pro by Mosaic Manufacturing ( https://www.mosaicmfg.com ).
The Palette II works by creating a spliced together filament feed that goes into the single extruder. I have had it for a short period of time and printed the test multi-color print which came out quite nice . Will be printing my self-designed first prints after I return from holiday travel and will give a more complete report then.
One issue that took me a while to track down was a clogged nozzle. The problem drove me nuts till I finally found it, so I made sure to order 10 of each nozzle I use from Amazon so I can keep on printing.
gorillamotors
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Well I finally tracked down the problem and it was only by accident. I searched the internet and youtube for weeks but only found possibles but none really cured the problem. It was under extrusion. I accidently found this youtube video that showed me where the actual problem was. It was the shaft that the extrusion pulleys sat on. The shaft is 20mm long and should be 24mm long. After removing the 3mm shaft I made my own and now it is printing properly. Here is the link.
Hope this will help anyone else. I would have never thought of that.
Good find.
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