Loc Pk-66 Ultimate; Now a build thread w/pictures.

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20180920_141416.jpg Once I got all the tubes in I had a thought. Back to the "pile" I went..Came out with a broken center drill with a nice 37 degree taper. Cut the tubes about 3/16" above the top CR and along with a plastic mallet and a steel backer block did some good ole fashioned Peening. Turned out pretty damn good, they're actually in tension (sound like guitar strings) and nice beveled edges for easy care and feeding. 20180920_120452.jpg
 
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Probably end up putting a bit of Rocketpoxy around the inside joints for good long time luck. Aluminum work hardens terribly..rsz.jpg
 
20180922_073301 (1).jpg Fin(s)! Luckily Dave @ Loc was adept enough to save me from myself by making my new fin set with extra long tabs. Odds of me getting an accurate dimension that would work on all 6 tabs were virtually zero. Now it's a simple manner of dropping each fin into it's respective slot, scribing a line @ the fin/tube joint, subtracting the difference and cutting off the balance. Unluckily for me, when the "inlaws" stopped by for a few days all of my stuff was banished from the house (personally I find it flat out stupid that we feel the need to "pretend" we live differently than we actually do) to the non climate controlled garage. End result was as expected, my fins warped somewhat severely. I'll get 'em straightened out though. The 'ol damp sponge and heat gun trick hasn't failed me yet. Can't wait to test my MonoKote ing skills. Looks like it should be fun/interesting/challenging/frustrating all at the same time. Gotta kinda do things out of order though. Wouldn't care to attempt applying it around 6 fins.20180922_073235.jpg 20180922_075358 (1).jpg
 
Anybody Know where this last one goes? I've filled all available slots...20180922_095705.jpg
 
It's funny how simple things like that go unnoticed. I've probably test fit/played with and moved them a dozen times and didn't catch it 'till the very end...
 
Very cool! It’s lookong good. Maybe they lost count when adding fins to your kit lol.
 
Finally got up the nerve to attempt MonoKote for the 1st time. This stuff is absolutely cool and easy to work with. Took me about the same amount of time to cover this fin in 2 tone as it would have to just fill/sand and prime. Only this one is finished. ECaeyberg has posted tutorials in the past that made me want to try it, now I'm wondering why I waited so long. It's been proven to work without exterior fillets on some pretty big motors but I just couldn't bring myself to do it. Inner section of fin(s) and lower body tube will be black. I have Rocketpoxy and black dye, therefore small (triple a battery sized) black fillets will occupy the space left open and just barely cover the edges of the MonoKote. At least that's my plan...20180922_203619.jpg 20180922_203631.jpg 20180922_210555.jpg 20180922_210807.jpg
 
To tell Ya truth I doubt I''ll even attempt the nc. I'm pretty much just wingin' it on the color scheme. Right now my goal is to just do enough so I can assemble the fin can and figure out the rest of it later. All I can say with any certainty at this point is that this much of the booster will be black. And I absolutely love this compared to sanding/priming and painting. If for no other reason than the relaxed timeframe. Always feel under the gun when paint is involved. Weather/humidity/re coat schedules, etc. With this you can start a piece, walk away and finish it at your convenience20180923_140647.jpg .
 
20180922_085931 (1).jpg Skipping ahead a bit, I've been thinking about how to best utilize all that space in the nose cone. Obviously it's gonna require at the very least some sort of adjustable nose weight system for optimized flights considering all the possible combinations with 7 mmts at my disposal. A while back I designed a system for my Estes Scion that was built as a single deploy rocket. The original intent was to utilize a hot wire/cutter chute release but it turns out it's also just as handy as a tracker only bay (there's pretty much no metal in it)or tracker/logger bay. I've adapted it to several other nose cones since it's absolutely easy to set up and use. It consists of a section of Bt-55, an Estes 29mm motor retainer and a small piece of plywood for a cap.The sled carries an Eggfinder mini, an Eggtimer Quantum (not in the pics, "borrowed it for another project) and currently a 450 mah Lipo, altough I have had an 800 in there as well. I found that I couldn't fit all that in a 29mm tube so I upped it to Bt-55 and everything fits, albeit tightly. A lathe is pretty much a requirement to pull it off though since the i.d. of the retainer needs to be opened up substantially. A small section of 3/16" brake line makes for a nice streamlined static port that has just flatout worked everytime. All you do is plug in the battery(s), drop it in, screw on the cap, wait for gps lock, arm the Quantum remotely @ the pad and fly. Move it from rocket to rocket at will since there's virtually no attachment, it's held in compression by the cap. In the larger size nose cones there's also room for a drop in nose weight tube. Pretty sure I'll use the same setup here even though it's not really needed due to the fact that I already have a full size av bay. An extra tracker can't hurt and I see no point in wasting all that real estate. 20180922_085623 (1).jpg
 
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I've never had stability issues even with 7 29/240 motors. No nose weight needed. Mine is set up for dual deploy with stock booster section and 17" payload tube, stock nose cone.
 
I've never had stability issues even with 7 29/240 motors. No nose weight needed. Mine is set up for dual deploy with stock booster section and 17" payload tube, stock nose cone.
Do you by chance have a finished weight? Also, don't forget that I've added a chunk of weight about as far back as it can be...
 
And what size main w/all 7 motors? I found a 48" that sims fairly well..
 
I've never had stability issues even with 7 29/240 motors. No nose weight needed. Mine is set up for dual deploy with stock booster section and 17" payload tube, stock nose cone.
Were you lighting all 7 @ the pad? I'm planning on airstarts only, the more the merrier. Don't think I can source a motor that'd safely lift it but it would be very cool to launch it on a high initial thrust central motor and attempt 3 pairs of airstarts. And since Marsa recently came out with the Gyro-1 tilt module I should be able to do it safely. Worst case would be launch on 3 and do two pairs of airstarts.
 
Will an H180(AT) or I204(CTI) in the center lift the entire loaded rocket? I always lit all 7 on the pad, central white with 6 outer blues. I like he idea of 3 sets of airstarts.
 
Will an H180(AT) or I204(CTI) in the center lift the entire loaded rocket? I always lit all 7 on the pad, central white with 6 outer blues. I like he idea of 3 sets of airstarts.
AT I205 has "about" enough initial thrust (maybe). CTI makes an I224 that looks promising, 433 N almost immediately. These are currently nothing more than guesses until I get an actual built weight. I did add quite a bit from "stock". Was thinking alternating white and black smokies would be a neat effect. Especially if I could pull off 3 sets with max delays:). I'm sure it won't be easy but that's exactly why I want to attempt it. Trying to stick mostly to single use motors (hardware costs) but not against buying a case for a BIG central re-load.
 
Fins are wrapped and ready for install. Looked a little boring to me so I decided to add some racing stripes. Tried a few different styles/orientations and could not decide. This morning after kicking it around a bit, I came up with this. Absolutely no measuring was involved, eyeballed the whole mess. Stripes on one side only to keep it from becoming to gaudy. Certainly not perfect but pretty damn good as far as I'm concerned. Bottom pic is through a 5x magnifier so you can see how it lays down. Just like gift wrapping with an iron. I absolutely love working with this stuff.Just need to finish motor retention 1st so I can paint my thrust ring, wrap the bottom of the tube and glue it all up.20180926_094522.jpg 20180926_094334.jpg
 
Do you by chance have a finished weight? Also, don't forget that I've added a chunk of weight about as far back as it can be...
Weight is 5.75 lb. completely prepped except motors. Pretty much stock except altimeter bay at base of payload section and a single layer of 4 oz tip to tip on the fins. (They are bad about flutter.)

And what size main w/all 7 motors? I found a 48" that sims fairly well..
I have a 60" Spherachute in it. They are measured over the top of the canopy so probably close to a 48" from other vendors.

Were you lighting all 7 @ the pad? I'm planning on airstarts only, the more the merrier. Don't think I can source a motor that'd safely lift it but it would be very cool to launch it on a high initial thrust central motor and attempt 3 pairs of airstarts. And since Marsa recently came out with the Gyro-1 tilt module I should be able to do it safely. Worst case would be launch on 3 and do two pairs of airstarts.
With 7 composite motors, I usually light 3 on the ground. I have used a single center motor (H399, I200, I204) and air started 6 Estes F15s for a low flight. I have Thermalite, so I just fuse the outboards to the ground start motor(s).
I also have an Ultimate 24 (3" with 24mm mounts) and an Ultimate Max (5.5" with 38 mm mounts). For electronic ignition of airstarts, I recommend CTI as their starters are ematches.
 
Ok, cool. According to my scale an F-16/6 weighs 100.3 grams, while a G-80/7T wieghs exactly 130. That's an additional 180 grams or roughly 6.3 ounces at the arse end to lift if attempting 3 sets of airsarts. Think an I-205 would be up to the task? O.R. says it should be ok, but again it's all guessing 'till I get a finished weight.
 
20180926_085117.jpg Parachute! Yay....Was at my local Menards the other day picking up some material for a truckless friend. Whilst impatiently waiting in a checkout line I discovered this in the impulse buy display/checkout line/cattle herding section. . It did not state the size on anything I could find and not wanting to open it in the store (already have several lifetimes of bad luck) I "impulsively bought it. Turns out it's about 48" across the flats so should be just about right. It does have vents near the top (not sure what, if any affect they'll have) and i'll also 20180926_085042.jpg 20180926_085208.jpg probably do a spill hole so looks like some testing'll be in order. I'll probably just fly it in a similar weight tougher to destroy fiberglass rocket with a logger to get actual decent before trusting it in my Ultimate. Was a bit pricey at $11 (I normally get the 60"ers from Home Depot for $5 and cut 'em to size) but I like the alternating color scheme.
 
I204 will lift up to ~13.5 lbs at 5:1 Thr/Wgt over the first quarter second.

I'd wager that's feasible for max airstarts
 
Cool. Gonna have to play around w/it when I get time. Gotta pay close attention to speeds though, Rocketjunkie mentioned fin flutter being a potential issue. They "feel" like it could absolutely be a problem at too high a velocity..Hopefully MonoKote being in tension actually does add some strength. The stuff is way tougher than it appears, Ya can't tear it. I'm just not so sure about the bond strength..
 
Retainer is finished. I've seen many different types/ways to accomplish this but none of them really appealed to me. After thinking about it off and on for a few days, this popped into my head. It's simple, easily reproducible and lightweight (as an added bonus, it looks just like the end view of a revolver cylinder:)). Started by using the 'ol dirty hands and printer paper rubbing trick (remember when I said measuring should, if possible, be avoided?) to get accurate dimensions. Since the motor mounts are not "perfectly" aligned/spaced and the inserts were a press fit between them I had no room for error. After said pattern was made, I simply laid it on a piece of .125" aluminum from the "pile", center punched the centers and drilled 'em out. Didn't feel like doing a bunch of setup on the mill so I took the lazy way out and just grabbed a die grinder and eyeballed it. I hate when I do that, It never leads to time saving, always the opposite. Now I'm gonna end up doing it twice since I'm not happy with the result. It'll work as is but I just don't like the sloppiness. On the brighter side, I already have a pattern:rolleyes:...I used 1/4" nylon spacers to get the inserts all to the correct depth and glued the whole mess up with JB Weld..Whole thing, including hardware came in at just over 15 grams. Trying to come up with a simple, lightweight way to add wire retainment to it for airstart igniters. Any ideas anyone? 20180927_100726.jpg 20180927_100659 (1).jpg 20180929_071104.jpg 20180927_173156.jpg 20180927_095433.jpg
 
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