Would anyone buy this Kit?

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Would you buy this kit? Long 24mm Engine Mount, BT-55, over 1400' on E9, over 800' on D12


  • Total voters
    8
Need just a little more information...Does it have a “witch’s hat” or solid nose cone? And which nose cone? Price range (NOT exact price - just general range)? Otherwise, it’s a good looking prototype that should make a great flying 24mm engined model.
 
I like any scale missile, especially one I've actually worked on.
 
I like any scale missile, especially one I've actually worked on.

You probably worked on Block 1. The new Block 2 doesn't tapper down at the front.
This is to make room for the active sending electromagnetic sender. (Radar)
The Block 2 no longer rely on a ship to send out the radar, they each do that themselves.
It's not suppose to be fully active until 2020, with the USA being 60% usage and NATO Allies at 40%.
Yeup, I did my research.
What other missiles have you worked on? I'd be interested in trying to kit them.
I'm currently working on the new Australian Penguin Mk 2 Mod 7, also fairly new.
Penguin.jpg
 
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Penguin looks cool. And this sea sparrow. Are these traditional cardboard tubes or fiberglass?
 
I like it, but would not buy it because there's too much similarity to the IRIS-T I just built. I would like it best if you included the weird details of the wings, with three separate steps in thickness. It looks like the CAD drawing is missing a transition towards the front, is that intentional? I assume omission of the massive wiring tunnel on the underside *is* intentional...
 
I like it, but would not buy it because there's too much similarity to the IRIS-T I just built. I would like it best if you included the weird details of the wings, with three separate steps in thickness. It looks like the CAD drawing is missing a transition towards the front, is that intentional? I assume omission of the massive wiring tunnel on the underside *is* intentional...

Roc Sim isn't my specialty, so I can't do a lot of details.
As for the transition, there isn't one on the Block 2, explained in post 4.
The difference between a kit with exact details and one that looks like real missile is $$
Since we are talking Low Power here, I'd like to keep the price as low and possible.

th
 
Roc Sim isn't my specialty, so I can't do a lot of details.
As for the transition, there isn't one on the Block 2, explained in post 4.
The difference between a kit with exact details and one that looks like real missile is $$
Since we are talking Low Power here, I'd like to keep the price as low and possible.
Whoops sorry, I missed the block 2/block 1 differences. I personally find the block 1 to be a bit more interesting, but both are interesting subjects. The transition adds a bit of cost but not that much really; the rest of the rocket is pretty straightforward.

Either one is going to need some nose weight I would imagine; those fins are pretty small.
 
Whoops sorry, I missed the block 2/block 1 differences. I personally find the block 1 to be a bit more interesting, but both are interesting subjects. The transition adds a bit of cost but not that much really; the rest of the rocket is pretty straightforward.

Either one is going to need some nose weight I would imagine; those fins are pretty small.

Yea, the 5 or 6 I put together in RocSim over the past week or so all needs nose weight.
Makes me wonder if there isn't something wrong.
But when I pull up an old design, they are all ok.
It's probably because I'm using the BT-55 air frame with 24mm engine mounts.
It's my personal goal to get some that goes 1500 to 2000 feet on Estes E9's.
But still be interesting besides the basic of design.
 
That penguin will be a pain to get flying. Probably needs a brick in the nose.

Actually, it's not that bad. The problem I'm having is in RocSim to get the lead fins to fit the weird nose cone.
And to simulate that cone.
When it comes to building it, I'd like to use a plastic cone, cut the tip off, and finding something readily available to glue to simulate the clear front.
At least it will give me something to do...
 
Use a short dome shape as the nosecone, with an ogive transition acting as the rest of the nose. The fins can attach to an inner tube inside the transition.

Also, Neil has some leads on clear domes since his Iris-T build
 
Yea, the 5 or 6 I put together in RocSim over the past week or so all needs nose weight.
Sounds correct.

It's my personal goal to get some that goes 1500 to 2000 feet on Estes E9's.
They stopped making E9s, only E12s now. In any case, if you put a BP E motor back there you're *really* gonna need nose weight.
 
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