3D Printing 3D printer plunge

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I have gone and done it. I bought a Prusa 3i MRK3. I will post about my experience and do an unboxing thread. I went with the fully assembled to avoid the obligatory cussing that comes when I assemble Ikea or anything with over 40 parts that does not have fins and nose cone.
 
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Uh-oh.....

This is scary.
Now what evil "lurks in the hearts of men", he can print!

What goodie's are first on the list?
 
I am going to print a 3D disposable rocket for testing EX motors.
 
I too ordered the MK3 back in May. It should ship out next week and I got the kit with the textured bed. It’ll be my first printer and I’m sure to do a little cussing with its build.
 
If you come up with any files to share, please do. I will do the same.
 
If you come up with any files to share, please do. I will do the same.
Will do. I have been playing with Fusion360 and the Slic3r stuff quite a bit since May. I'm slow for sure but hope to get more efficient soon. And then try to make designs that print well...
 
A guy in my club has one and has made numerous rocket parts and at least one complete rocket. Some advice, air gap the motor mount from the rest of the rocket to minimize shrinking and expansion issues. Also, do not remove used motors until they are completely cool to minimize heat issues with the motor mount.
 
Cool. I love my Prusa mk2s, and it definitely has more than 40 parts, by about a log unit.

Good luck, and enjoy.
 
I have gone and done it. I bought a Prusa 3i MRK3. I will post about my experience and do an unboxing thread. I went with the fully assembled to avoid the obligatory cussing that comes when I assemble Ikea or anything with over 40 parts that does not have fins and nose cone.

Chuck, you know the cussing starts with just 2 parts.

Cool. I love my Prusa mk2s, and it definitely has more than 40 parts, by about a log unit.

Good luck, and enjoy.

Holy cow! My tenders ears would not be able to handle that amount of foul language.
 
Be aware that GG used Barium Nitrate which is highly carcinogenic. Once it gets in your lungs it won't come back out. Should you elect to sand/scrape, do so in a well ventilated area (outside) with a mask or ventilator and immediately wash your hands and clothes.

My vote would be un-modified grains and a very hot igniter.

I have gone and done it. I bought a Prusa 3i MRK3. I will post about my experience and do an unboxing thread. I went with the fully assembled to avoid the obligatory cussing that comes when I assemble Ikea or anything with over 40 parts that does not have fins and nose cone.

Cool. I love my Prusa mk2s, and it definitely has more than 40 parts, by about a log unit.

Good luck, and enjoy.

Chuck, you know the cussing starts with just 2 parts.



Holy cow! My tenders ears would not be able to handle that amount of foul language.

Guys: I am gonna go hide under my rock.
 
When you've got it setup, try some of the CF PLA if you haven't. Proto-pasta, Ziro and Infinity 3D all make very good CF PLA, with my favorite being Infinity 3D's variant. It's great for parts that need tighter tolerances and has proven to be very stiff. I like it more than the PLA+, even.
 
Welcome to 3D printing :)

There are a couple of threads here discussing it on the forum earlier:
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/show-off-your-3d-printed-rocket-parts.137761/#post-1647109
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/3d-printing.137126/#post-1635051

I was doing some strength testing on some 3D printed fins just today, printed on FDM and SLA printers. Thread here:
https://forum.ausrocketry.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=5324&start=30
There is some other 3D printed parts discussed in that thread too. Feel free to learn or steal the ideas :)

Keep up with any progress in materials for 3D printing as they are evolving all the time. There are some nice materials getting more easily available now.
 
Got my Pursa last week! though I am having a couple little issues, getting the PLA to stick, had one good print, then the next keeps catching and sliding around...
Their customer support is great, it arrived with a cracked/broken case where the LED is, emailed them and within minutes had a reply, sent photos, and 3 days later new cover, and bag of gummy bears!
Now to just get it to print.
 
Got my Pursa last week! though I am having a couple little issues, getting the PLA to stick, had one good print, then the next keeps catching and sliding around...
Their customer support is great, it arrived with a cracked/broken case where the LED is, emailed them and within minutes had a reply, sent photos, and 3 days later new cover, and bag of gummy bears!
Now to just get it to print.

Unscented Aqua Net hair spray is great for bed adhesion...spray it on while the bed is warming up. Also, try calibrating the Z height with "live adjust Z" setting. You can tell if you need to do this because your print will be rough on the bottom. First layer too high gives poor bed adhesion.
 
Mine just left Prague. Excited to follow yall’s progress
 
A guy in my club has one and has made numerous rocket parts and at least one complete rocket. Some advice, air gap the motor mount from the rest of the rocket to minimize shrinking and expansion issues. Also, do not remove used motors until they are completely cool to minimize heat issues with the motor mount.

I’m the guy in Zeus-cat’s club. I’ve been experimenting with entirely 3D printed rockets in PLA. Currently I’m using an Ultimaker 2 Go with either Cura or Simplify3D for slicing and Fusion 360 for design work. It’s been a good starter printer and setup. My Prusa MK3 is scheduled to ship the first week of August. I’m looking forward to upping my game wrt types of materials, heated bed, etc.

Zeus-cat’s comments are spot on regarding the PLA rockets. First I tried a true minimum diameter 18mm design which is how heat related shrinkage showed up. What happens is if you pulled the motor out before being completely cool, the PLA tube would shrink ever so slightly so the next motor wouldn’t go in. Not entirely a problem because the rocket design is in sections that screw together and I just printed a new fin can :)

In Version 2, pictures below, I made the ID of the body-tube sections 20mm putting a small gap between motor and wall. For a motor mount I used inside wall flanges to hold the motor in place with a screw on boat tail. This seems to have solved the wall tube shrinkage issue, but you still have to wait for the motor to completely cool or you get very slight shrinkage issue on the boat tail threads.

Next up is a 24mm ID design with 18mm motors which is in the early stages.

One of the fun secondary aspects of these trials is being able to design the airfoils, nose cones, etc. parametrically allowing relatively rapid redesigns.

The version 2 rocket which includes a payload section for a FireFly altimeter.

IMG_1139.jpg
IMG_1140.jpg
 
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There was this, started some time ago:

Rocket CAD Repository -- I'd just about forgotten about it myself.


I've just spent the past two days trying to get PETG to print and have come to the conclusion that the extruder on my old DaVinci just won't handle it. ABS runs fine but after a few layers of PETG the extruder starts stuttering. Suspecting some sort of heat creep.

My old Replicator is still in a hundred pieces awaiting an upgrade, but I just bought a used cheap clone of the Replicator - it's going to need some upgrades too, to make it usable. First off to upgrade the firmware to Sailfish. I've got a delta kit here too that would only take a few hours to finish up, but I don't relish the thought of getting the kinks out of that, and it would be good for PLA only.
 
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Zeus-cat’s comments are spot on regarding the PLA rockets. First I tried a true minimum diameter 18mm design which is how heat related shrinkage showed up. What happens is if you pulled the motor out before being completely cool, the PLA tube would shrink ever so slightly so the next motor wouldn’t go in. Not entirely a problem because the rocket design is in sections that screw together and I just printed a new fin can :)

See, I do listen to what you say Mike.
 
I’ve been on the fence with getting a printer myself. Going to a class held at a local makerspace in a few weeks, but keep us posted with your successes and challenges!
 
Do you have a rule of thumb for thread design? I've done a little bit of playing around with worm gears and it was hard to get something that worked smoothly.

No fast and hard rules. But I do try to keep the number of threads per unit of length relatively low which gives the appearance of “large” threads. Given PLA I have found they just come out better since I print the thread with no support and given the tolerance of the printer.

See https://m.wikihow.com/Read-a-Screw-Thread-Callout for understanding the thread spec.
 
Oh Joy!. Waiting for a long print on my DaVinci, I decided to put a couple of hours into the $100 printer I'd gotten a few weeks ago off of Craigslist. It wasn't abused, but needed some cleaning and maintenance. I suspect you can find a lot of cheap low-use printers on Craigslist, from people who like the idea of 3D printing, but then get discouraged by the fiddling required. It looks like this one (a CTC Replicator clone) had the original Kapton build surface and after a while stuff just quit sticking. That's normal for Kapton - it needs to be replaced every few months - I've used it for years. But I had a GekoTec surface handy, so it's printing with that now. It will still need some upgrades, and I'll probably replace the extruder, but overall, it was a steal and an easy route to a second printer. (Well, second functioning, 3rd and 4th are awaiting time to repair/assemble.)

Actually, I got my DaVinci off of Craigslist too. It still had half of the original filament cartridge remaining. (Since upgraded to Marlin and it uses standard filament now.)

CTC.jpg

First print came out excellent. I just looked at the stats on the CTC, and it had 166 hours of printing and a bit over 400 meters of filament run thru it. My old Replicator has several thousand hours of printing and run many kilometers of filament.

CTC First Print.jpg

37 minutes for that? Well, I didn't even look at the speed setting when I set it up.
 
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Hmm, that is why o have heard to referred to as Krapton.

Lots of different choices and solutions. Everyone has a favorite and demons. I've used Kapton for literally thousands of print hours, and it has worked fine for me, on my printer. Don't know why others have problems with it - I can only think that their printer is not adjusted or suited for it. YMMV. I got a glass plate for my Replicator years ago, but never bothered to install it because the Kapton was still working fine (I had gotten some 5 mil sheets that were much easier to install than the 1/2 mil tape [tho the tape worked fine too]). Now a year or so ago, I got some GekoTec sheets and started using that - which was much more expensive... and worked about the same as the Kapton (tho maybe it'll last longer without replacement).

Now with that, the DaVinci is standard with a glass bed. When I finally started to use the DV (a few months ago), I first tried ABS/acetone solution (aka ABS 'juice'). Didn't like it much 'cause it was messy and I didn't get good results, but that's just me. I didn't really pursue it. Others have good luck with it. I was planning to use Aquanet, and had bought a can many months ago, but couldn't track it down (disappeared after a move). So I didn't give that a try, though I hear it works well also. I wasn't thrilled with the idea of spraying inside the DV anyway, as the glass bed isn't removable. So the last resort, that I was skeptical of, was glue stick. Tried that and it works very well - easy to apply, easy to clean up.

I almost forgot painter's tape. I tried that for a month or so at first with my Replicator. That worked Ok but had to be replaced often. I guess that works well with PLA, but I've never used that much. The delta I have is supposed to use PLA/tape, but when I get it running I have a GekoTec PLA plate that's supposed to work for that. (I've got the GekoTec stuff sitting around because I backed their Kickstarter a few years ago.)

There are other coatings that people swear by, but I don't have much incentive to try or switch, since what I have is working. I've also heard that PETG on glass needs nothing else - I'm skeptical - it didn't seem to work when I tried it on the DV, but I think that was extruder problems so I can't say.

In short, I think it's safe to say that pretty much everything works, but not for everyone, on every printer.

And on a final note, the CTC that was working so well, quit when I changed filaments - slight difference in diameter I suspect, and the crap CTC extruder isn't adjustable. So I'm in the middle of changing to another extruder that I've got sitting around. Only slightly less crap, but it's adjustable.
 
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