Ejection charge canisters

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

k3td

Well-Known Member
TRF Supporter
Joined
Dec 13, 2011
Messages
102
Reaction score
3
Location
Georgetown, TX
Looking for suggestions and best practices on ejection charge canisters. I have aluminum charge canisters, but they are bigger than I need for 3" and 4" rockets, and I'm concerned about ensuring the FFFFg BP stays contained and in contact with the J-Tek e-matches I plan to use with my Raven 3.

I see Pratt Hobbies has canisters available that use a filament based igniter. Has anyone used these with a Raven 3?

Thanks,
 
I have always used little 1 inch or 1.5 inch pvc end caps. They work great in holding the black powder tight and are very small. I screw them right down into my bulkheads. After the FFFFg is poured I place the e-match in the middle of the powder and stuff the cap with dog barf. This packs all of the powder down and together for a pop instead of a slower burn. Once the cap is full i just use masking tape to hold it all together through flight. Hasn't failed me yet.
 
I do the same thing as Kbrewski, but I use copper pipe caps. The ones for 1/2" pipe work for 3" and 4" rockets. The ones for 3/4" pipe will hold about 6 grams of BP. Of course, you can get them for 1", 1.5" etc.

Just drill a hole in the bottom and use a machine screw to attach them to the av-bay. I prefer a #8 316 SST Phillips slotted Round Head Machine Screws in case I decide to remove them later. I have a couple I've been flying for 8 years and screw heads and Phillips slots are dirty, but without corrosion. Some caps have a slightly rounded end, but a couple lite raps with a hammer will flatten the end nicely.

A 1/2" cap, SST screw, nut, washer, and lock washer can be put together for less then $1.
 
Doghouse rocketry's ejection canisters cost just a few dollars for a pair, come in various sizes for any rocket and work really well. I have used them on everything from 54mm to 6" rockets with 100% success.
 
I needed something smaller, because I have a 2.6" 12" long bay, and need less than .5 grams of charge.

I found these at Home Depot; they're "SharkBite" 1/2 in. Plastic PEX Barb Plugs, 5 for $3.47.

The well is .32" x .75", perfect for what I need.

shark.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks so much for the suggestion so far. I would prefer something that doesn't have to be mounted to the altimeter bay so I have the option of placing the main deployment charge at the top of the tube next to nosecone if I want to deploy the main out the bottom of the tube instead of blowing the nosecone off.
 
Thanks so much for the suggestion so far. I would prefer something that doesn't have to be mounted to the altimeter bay so I have the option of placing the main deployment charge at the top of the tube next to nosecone if I want to deploy the main out the bottom of the tube instead of blowing the nosecone off.

That seems like a good idea, but doesn't really work because of the way ejection works. The charge pressurizes the tube and unless the chute, burrito, etc. is air tight enough to act as a piston, the position of the charge doesn't make a lot of difference. You do get some force on the recovery to push the recovery out of, or into the tube, but it's not enough to overcome the much larger forces of the two halves of the rocket moving apart.

My L1 rocket was DD and used an apogee charge that was placed on the top of the motor so it pushed the recovery out of the booster tube. After a dozen flight or so, I found out it really didn't matter where the charge was placed since my apogee recovery gear didn't really seal the tube.

I used a 3" piece of duct tape, folded in half the long way, the match and powder poured into the center and the tape close around everything. Fold all the flaps together and wrap a second piece of duct tape around the charge. This still doesn't give as strong of ejection force as putting the powder in a canister, packing with dog barf, and taping with masking tape.

My recommendation is to put the charges in canisters on the end of the av-bay. Just make sure you don't over do the charge sizes, especially the apogee charge.
 
Agree with Viperfixr and Handeman. Bill at Doghouse normally ships same day, charges actual shipping, and is very helpful. His canisters are the best I've seen.

And then Handeman, well, look at his avatar and you'll know he knows what he's talking about. :wink:
 
That seems like a good idea, but doesn't really work because of the way ejection works. The charge pressurizes the tube and unless the chute, burrito, etc. is air tight enough to act as a piston, the position of the charge doesn't make a lot of difference. You do get some force on the recovery to push the recovery out of, or into the tube, but it's not enough to overcome the much larger forces of the two halves of the rocket moving apart.

My L1 rocket was DD and used an apogee charge that was placed on the top of the motor so it pushed the recovery out of the booster tube. After a dozen flight or so, I found out it really didn't matter where the charge was placed since my apogee recovery gear didn't really seal the tube.

I used a 3" piece of duct tape, folded in half the long way, the match and powder poured into the center and the tape close around everything. Fold all the flaps together and wrap a second piece of duct tape around the charge. This still doesn't give as strong of ejection force as putting the powder in a canister, packing with dog barf, and taping with masking tape.

My recommendation is to put the charges in canisters on the end of the av-bay. Just make sure you don't over do the charge sizes, especially the apogee charge.

+1 My "mind sim" :)wink:) says that putting it in the nose may also increase the possibility ever so slightly of ejection gasses passing by the chute and venting out without pushing off the nose. In a way, can't the chute in front act almost like a baffle? Just my thought and I don't have evidence to back it, but I've had many flights and one big preoccupation for me is to cut down on errors/failures.
 
+1 My "mind sim" :)wink:) says that putting it in the nose may also increase the possibility ever so slightly of ejection gasses passing by the chute and venting out without pushing off the nose. In a way, can't the chute in front act almost like a baffle? Just my thought and I don't have evidence to back it, but I've had many flights and one big preoccupation for me is to cut down on errors/failures.

Sorry about my confusing description. In my scenario, the nosecone stays attached to the top body tube - which separates from the av bay at main deployment. My thought was the ejection charge could ensure the chute deploys as the nosecone / top body tube separates from the av bay. That's why I was thinking of putting the ejection charge at the top of the top tube near the nosecone.
 
That seems like a good idea, but doesn't really work because of the way ejection works. The charge pressurizes the tube and unless the chute, burrito, etc. is air tight enough to act as a piston, the position of the charge doesn't make a lot of difference. You do get some force on the recovery to push the recovery out of, or into the tube, but it's not enough to overcome the much larger forces of the two halves of the rocket moving apart.

My L1 rocket was DD and used an apogee charge that was placed on the top of the motor so it pushed the recovery out of the booster tube. After a dozen flight or so, I found out it really didn't matter where the charge was placed since my apogee recovery gear didn't really seal the tube.

I used a 3" piece of duct tape, folded in half the long way, the match and powder poured into the center and the tape close around everything. Fold all the flaps together and wrap a second piece of duct tape around the charge. This still doesn't give as strong of ejection force as putting the powder in a canister, packing with dog barf, and taping with masking tape.

My recommendation is to put the charges in canisters on the end of the av-bay. Just make sure you don't over do the charge sizes, especially the apogee charge.

I disagree with most of this post.

It most certainly can make a difference having the ejection charge in the opposite end of the tube where the main is coming out. A hefty charge can push the laundry up so that it gets stuck. I've had trouble with certain models with the charges above the 'chute. I switched to charge below, and it now works every time.

You absolutely DO NOT need a canister to tightly contain BP for most normal HPR flights up to say 25,000' or 30,000'. Using a plastic vial wrapped with duct tape or electricians tape will do the trick. Or the finger of a rubber glove. Or my charge containment of choice - surgical tubing.

A piece of surgical tubing with ends held tightly with strong cable ties (not the cheap thin ones) has worked for me 100% of the time on dozens of flights for 10 years or more. Jim Jarvis has proven there are limits to these, but they are extreme.

A surgical tubing ejection charge at the end of an e-match wire can be placed anywhere inside the 'chute bay you need and it will get the job done.

--Lance.
 
Looking for suggestions and best practices on ejection charge canisters. I have aluminum charge canisters, but they are bigger than I need for 3" and 4" rockets, and I'm concerned about ensuring the FFFFg BP stays contained and in contact with the J-Tek e-matches I plan to use with my Raven 3.

I see Pratt Hobbies has canisters available that use a filament based igniter. Has anyone used these with a Raven 3?

Thanks,

The Pratt canisters work well. Used them exclusively for about 15 years.
 
The Pratt canisters work well. Used them exclusively for about 15 years.

Especially when you can buy the 2ml Centrifuge tubes off Flea-Bay for $5.14/100 including shipping. I wouldn't trust them for medical or scientific purposes but for ejection charges its cheap.
 
I disagree with most of this post.

It most certainly can make a difference having the ejection charge in the opposite end of the tube where the main is coming out. A hefty charge can push the laundry up so that it gets stuck. I've had trouble with certain models with the charges above the 'chute. I switched to charge below, and it now works every time.

You absolutely DO NOT need a canister to tightly contain BP for most normal HPR flights up to say 25,000' or 30,000'. Using a plastic vial wrapped with duct tape or electricians tape will do the trick. Or the finger of a rubber glove. Or my charge containment of choice - surgical tubing.

A piece of surgical tubing with ends held tightly with strong cable ties (not the cheap thin ones) has worked for me 100% of the time on dozens of flights for 10 years or more. Jim Jarvis has proven there are limits to these, but they are extreme.

A surgical tubing ejection charge at the end of an e-match wire can be placed anywhere inside the 'chute bay you need and it will get the job done.

--Lance.

Interesting. I posted what I did based on my experience. So far, I've never had a rocket where it mattered where the charge was placed. Obviously my experience does not mean it isn't an issue in some rockets, just that I've never had the problem. Is there a particular type or design of rocket or common conditions where charge placement becomes important?

I completely agree that you do not need a canister for BP charges. They will work just fine without. Flying on the east coast, I don't know about 25K or higher, but in our lower waivers I've never heard of an issue. My question is, have you noticed the difference between loosely contained BP charges, like in a surgical glove finger tip, and more tightly contained like packed in an av-bay mounted ejection canister with dog barf and tape? There certainly isn't a difference like a BP substitute would have, but I have noticed a distinct difference in the force of the BP charge when loosely contained vs. tightly contained. That is why I recommend a tightly contained charge.
 
I avoid centrifuge tubes in cardboard rockets because I have had the lids puncture the wall.

I have used or tested just about all of the possibilities. Gloves and tape are very cheap and they work.
 
I avoid centrifuge tubes in cardboard rockets because I have had the lids puncture the wall.

I have used or tested just about all of the possibilities. Gloves and tape are very cheap and they work.

Prep as normal, remove the lid, fill empty space with expanding foamy ear plug, seal with tape.
 
Interesting. I posted what I did based on my experience. So far, I've never had a rocket where it mattered where the charge was placed. Obviously my experience does not mean it isn't an issue in some rockets, just that I've never had the problem. Is there a particular type or design of rocket or common conditions where charge placement becomes important?

I completely agree that you do not need a canister for BP charges. They will work just fine without. Flying on the east coast, I don't know about 25K or higher, but in our lower waivers I've never heard of an issue. My question is, have you noticed the difference between loosely contained BP charges, like in a surgical glove finger tip, and more tightly contained like packed in an av-bay mounted ejection canister with dog barf and tape? There certainly isn't a difference like a BP substitute would have, but I have noticed a distinct difference in the force of the BP charge when loosely contained vs. tightly contained. That is why I recommend a tightly contained charge.

I tightly pack all charges, including BP, to ensure the match head is in contact with the powder at all times.
 
Prep as normal, remove the lid, fill empty space with expanding foamy ear plug, seal with tape.

I concur. I actually make my own cannisters for cardboard rockets out of cardboard from toilet paper or paper towel tolls. I cut a piece and wrap it around a pen. It works well and is a cheap alternative. No projectiles to puncture the tube.
 
Epoxy is fine. So is modeling clay, duct tape, and a host of other things. You don't want burning ejection gasses to come into contact with your electronics. Glue and epoxy are permanent, and very effective, if you don't plan to take your bay apart in the future. But a little clay or putty or rolled up tape will work just as well, and can be removed.
 
Thanks so much for the great suggestions and feedback. I decided to try some of the Aerocon charge holders.
https://aeroconsystems.com/cart/electronics/black-powder-ejection-charge-holders/

One more question - I read references to using a hot glue gun to secure the e-match head inside the bottom of the canister. Is there any reason 5 minute epoxy wont work?

Hot glue works great - fast, cheap, easy

$3 for a measly 15 vials? If you are buying other stuff from aerocon, then sure, add them to your order. If you are only buying vials, then look on Amazon or Ebay. You can probably get 500 vials for $3. You go through them very quickly.
 
Back
Top