So, What Do You Do With These RMS Things/

Just won a raffle to benefit a New Orleans based rocketeer. This is the raffle that Giant Leap had advertised.

Won an 18-20, 24-40 and a 29-40/120 AT RMS cases

What am I supposed to do with these ?

I know buy reloads and shoot them, am asking for any suggestions and/or advice.

Purely an SU man till now....


bmhiii

Originally posted by bmhiii
Won an 18-20, 24-40 and a 29-40/120 AT RMS cases

What am I supposed to do with these ?

Click to expand...

box them carefully and send'em to me!

Seriously, AeroTech has some videos and instructions here-
https://www.aerotech-rocketry.com/customersite/theatre/theatre.html
https://www.aerotech-rocketry.com/customersite/resource_library/AT_instructions.html

Enjoy!

No no box them and seond them to me use. J/K

I suggest you go down to your Local Radio SHack pick up a tube of there grease that what I use to great the O-rings. Also I would suggest when building the motor grease the liner to make clean up easier. Also don't try adjustieding the delay you'll either end up with a burn threw or a bonus delay. Also go the link Brianc put those are gona be helpful.

What about clipping off parts of the motor hooks in 18mm and 24mm MMTs?


bmhiii

buy a Custom Redline or Sport and put a D13-7 (18mm RMS) in it.

buy a Big Daddy and put an F24-7 (24mm RMS) in it.

or, fly your Estes V2 and Saturn V on an F12-3 (24mm RMS).


clip off a little (1/8"?) of the top end of the motor hooks if the models are unassembled. if it's too late for that, just get a long bastard file and work carefully for about 10 minutes.

I don't know anything about the 18/20 and 24/40 motor casings. I only have the AT 29/40-120, Rouse Tech 29/120, Dr. Rocket 28/180, and Dr. Rocket 29/240.

The 24/40 is perfect for things like the Executioner. That rocket loves the E-18. So do my Phoenix and Big Daddy. Still have to try it in my upengined Prowler and Venus Probe...

The E18-4 and the F24-4 reloads are AWESOME in the Estes Saturn V, btw. I haven't used one of these in my Mercury Atlas yet, but I'm sure that would be fantastic, too.

No suggestions or advice here but allow me to say that you'll enjoy saving money on cost per flight with these RMS systems (And yes, it's definitely worth the hassle of cleaning the casings! Assembling the motors is cool too. )

Barry - you do not need to clip the motor hooks as the RMS closures have recesses in them to allow the clip to hold the motor. The only thing I had to do to use the RMS motors was to slightly file the forward portion of the hook up by the motor block. This allows the top section of the RMS to pass through the motor block.

Once installed, I always wrap a piece of masking tape around the motor hook and motor casing. This will ensure that the relatively weak Estes motor hook does not slip off and cause you to loose your hardware.

Thanks everybody!!!!


bmhiii

Build yourself an AT G-Force and pair it with the G64, can't go wrong there.

The G64 is an awesome motor, inexpensive and powerful. It also produces a large flame and lotsa smoke and it also has a roar that really tends to stand out.

Get a PML Phobos fly it a G64-7 for its flight then put an H128, H165, H238, H97, H180, H210, or H220 and get your L1.

I'll take that 18mm RMS

Sorry rocketkyle, think I'll keep it.

Since I have a smaller type field I bought the following:

D13 for the 18mm
E18 and F39 for the 24mm
E16 and E23 for the 29mm.

Now all I need is some flying weather!!!!

bmhiii

You'll want a better ignitor for that E16, they can be extremely difficult at times to light.

I had one that took 4, count 'em 4 crapperheads before it finally sputtered to life.

On the other hand, the E23 is a great little motor, never had one fail to light on the first try.

As for your 24mm F39, that motor will blow your mind, literally. Try sticking one in an Art Applewhite 24mm Stealth or Scimitar and watch just how fast that sucker comes off the pad.

Originally posted by bmhiii
Sorry rocketkyle, think I'll keep it.

Since I have a smaller type field I bought the following:

D13 for the 18mm
E18 and F39 for the 24mm
E16 and E23 for the 29mm.

Now all I need is some flying weather!!!!

bmhiii

Click to expand...

The D13 and E16 can be hard to get to light. From what I've seen. But the smallest reload I've used was an E23-5 pretty nice reload but a bit underpowered for the Initiator. So if you want to get your D13 and E16 to light on the first attemp get an Igniterman Hellfire pyrogen kit. If Igniterman can't light your motor, your motor won't burn.

I loooooove E18s! Man, that's such a great motor! Very loud for the size, and nice power. you won't be disappointed. Just be prepared - the closures sometimes require a bit of muscle to get them closed all the way when you're not used to it.

Originally posted by Loopy
I loooooove E18s! Man, that's such a great motor! Very loud for the size, and nice power. you won't be disappointed. Just be prepared - the closures sometimes require a bit of muscle to get them closed all the way when you're not used to it.

Click to expand...

Very loud for an E motor

Originally posted by Rocket Guy 1317
The D13 and E16 can be hard to get to light. From what I've seen. But the smallest reload I've used was an E23-5 pretty nice reload but a bit underpowered for the Initiator. So if you want to get your D13 and E16 to light on the first attemp get an Igniterman Hellfire pyrogen kit. If Igniterman can't light your motor, your motor won't burn.

Click to expand...

Really? I haven't had any issues lighting a D13. Both of the ones I've used had instant ignition. I did use a quickburst twiggy, which more than halfway filled the grain, but they it instantly. The only one I have ever seen on a copperhead lit, but took about 3 seconds to do so.

I lit a D13 on a copperhead, no prob today. WOW, what a motor!!!!!


bmhiii

Originally posted by cjl
Really? I haven't had any issues lighting a D13. Both of the ones I've used had instant ignition. I did use a quickburst twiggy, which more than halfway filled the grain, but they it instantly. The only one I have ever seen on a copperhead lit, but took about 3 seconds to do so.

Click to expand...

Thats what I've heard. But I only use 29mm and 38mm RMS. I only have the AT 29/40-120, Rouse Tech 29/120, Dr. Rocket 29/180, and Dr. Rocket 29/240.

I just used a D13 in my Estes 1284 Shuttle/Booster and it flew like, well really n i c e. Best flight I ever had, and the shuttle came down in a l o n g sweeping arc, left to right. This was with about 5-10mph winds. WOW! Thanks, AT!

Pete

The 24/40 is a great little case

From experience, I will invite you to definitely search (or ask) the forum for advice on fitment issues such as: tight liner not going into the casing or an aft closure not screwing on.

The nice thing about having won the RMS cases is that you won't have to burn x-amount of motors to "break even" on the savings of flying RMS. You'll get to start saving money right away!

Eugene,

When I said I won them, it was a bidding thing so I did pay for them... however the money went to a rocketeer in New Orleans who lost everything.... so it was a win-win situation for me.

It's also not about the cost, but expanding my rocket flying abililities. On the slow road to HPR!!!! Getting some experience w/ RMS.... Got me a BSD Horizon waiting for fillets and then L1!!!

OBTW, what is a good HPR casing for 38mm?

bmhiii

38/240- H124W, H73J, H148R, H242T
That is an excellent case. Both of my attempts for L1 were using this case (H148R and H123W). The 38/360 has one H blackjack and the rest are 'I' motors.

I guess it depends on what you want. The 38/240 has always been one of my favorites, with the H123 that I used for my cert, but the 38/720 is also great (I LOVE the I600). For L2 size, the J570 (38/1080) is also incredible. For L1, though, I prefer the 38/240.

I good 38mm high power RMS is the 38/480 you can choose from four I motors either the I154 my fav motor right now, I211, I285, and the I300 but this is a good casing post cert flight. Also a good thing to start out with in high power rocketry is the 29/180-240 system you get a forward and aft closures, the 29/180 casing, the 29/240 casing, and the foward seal disc. The best motor use for L1 is either the H165 (I used this motor for my Jr. L1), H128, or the H238. They all cost about the same about 12 dollars a piece. Or the 38/240 casing is good for L1 you can choose from the H73, H123, H148, of the H242.