CJ's "HOW TO BUILD A DARKSTAR 3 OR ANY GLASS KIT BUILD" STARTS

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Hey Jim, It seems that you connect the kevlar to the nosecone directly with a blowline knot? Curious as to why you do this instead of another quicklink?

Also, (please forgive me if I missed this but I can't find it) I see no mention of vent holes in the airframes. Do you not do this?
 
Hey Jim, It seems that you connect the kevlar to the nosecone directly with a blowline knot? Curious as to why you do this instead of another quicklink?

Also, (please forgive me if I missed this but I can't find it) I see no mention of vent holes in the airframes. Do you not do this?


1. Ya have to tie a knot to the Q-link, so what do you gain? I don't find a need to remove shockcord from NC, so I just tie the cord direct & eliminate the Q-link. Same for end that attaches to Y-harness. By using a bowline knot, it's always easy to undo ,if the need does arise. I just use Q-links at the av-bay.

2. It's in here somewhere, thread just getting too long to search. I put 1/8 holes in center of payload & again centered in fincan between top of MM tube and upper edge of fincan.


Edit: thanks Diz
 
1. Ya have to tie a knot to the Q-link, so what do you gain? I don't find a need to remove shockcord from NC, so I just tie the cord direct & eliminate the Q-link. Same for end that attaches to Y-harness. By using a bowline knot, it's always easy to undo ,if the need does arise. I just use Q-links at the av-bay.

Yeah, I was just thinking it's easier to remove and replace if and when needed.

Bowline: https://www.animatedknots.com/bowline/

or

Water Bowline? :https://www.animatedknots.com/bowli...g&Website=www.animatedknots.com&Categ=boating

Hmm...looks like the difference is just an extra loop. Probably not necessary.
 
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Well it's been a long a very fun ride, but it's close to ending this great build thread.

Previously a few posts back I showed the pre-flight charge making, & packing the recovery gear for flight. The only thing I can think of missing is how I install my tracker & the "twist & tape" method of arming electronics. Sooooo...

Generally if I have room, the tracker gets installed into the fincan. By doing this, when you reach apogee and the payload separates from the fincan, the tracker signal will"jump". It is no longer inside the airframe and you get a signal increase.

No big deal on low altitude flights where you can see the event, BUT if you are out of site of the rocket, when the signal jumps......you know the charges fired & that you had a good event! Throughout the descent as the rocket tumbles and flutter, the orientation of the antenna changes and your signal jumps all over the place. Another good reason to use a small drogue, this stabilizes the fall, strings out the recovery gear in a straight line, keeping the antenna oriented in the same direction throughout the entire descent.
[if the drogue is sized correctly. that's another story]

Use electrical tape, NOT masking tape to install tracker on shockcord. I place it 2-3 ft down from the av-bay, keeping it clear from getting banged on the way down. Wrap tape around the tracker body & shock cord 2 layers thick. Do NOT tape the antenna to shock cord. [well ya can but I won't] I have seen numerous antennas ripped from the tracker due to some cord entanglement or other various snafu's.... I have not lost an antenna yet after hundreds of flights.

Disclaimer: once again my method only here, I'm sure many other ways work, just describing a tested and true one that's worked for me.

Once the wrapping is finished, bend over a tab on tape so you can find the end...when it's time to remove the tracker. Boy o boy finding the little bugger can be a real bear!DSCN1885.jpg

Finally after inserting the cordage, slide the tracker in last, I fold over the antenna so it's not down in the cords. [Another advantage of full coverage with tape....protects the tracker from ejection charge blast & BP residue]
DSCN1889.jpg

Top off the stack with the payload and your done. Power up the receiver when battery is installed & once again when ready to fly, making sure you are getting a signal. More than once Iv'e seen rockets on the pad, we're back at the flight line & some yahoo wants to hold up the rack cause his trackers not putting out a signal. Invariably I'll ask..."Did you turn it on when you installed it "? and the answer is always "No".

I do place the tracker in the NC many times also. When flying around water & small rockets where there is no room anywhere else. Hence the payload section we did in the NC.
Twice I have had water recovery where rocket was totally submerged with the NC floating on the surface like a bobber and the Tracker dry inside just happily beeping away.LOl Several other flights I hit a ditch filled with water several feet deep.

One last thing I have several pieces of masking tape stuck to the side of my receiver....with my frequency #'s written on them. Many times when out hunting you may inadvertently move a button or knob going in the thick brush,getting in & out of car etc. The last thing ya want is to be a mile or 2 out and lose signal cause of this & can't remember you channel settings. AND it does happen trust me. I could tell countless tales of this.

NEVER remove batteries from tracker till you are back at home base. In the event it gets dropped or misplaced along the way.....as long as its powered, you can go back and find. I've done it & so have others, but we always found them & some have lost theirs by not leaving it in, wanting to save the battery.

Anybody well versed in tracking will tell you all of the above are cold, hard facts!

Finally as a courtesy to others, try and find out if anyone else is using the same frequency you are. When back at home base, remove power so you don't interfere with each other. This actually happened at my last launch which was "BlackPearls" maiden flight. He was already on a rack when I powered up and got the Double Beep of death. So I had to untape and remove my tracker, power off till he was through with his flight & recovering it. That set me back an hour and a half....my fault though, I know better.

So there you go a quick "tracker 101"

Finally a finished loaded up BlackPearl ready to go!
DSCN1640.jpg

Next: on the pad & flight summary of maiden voyage.
 
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Sweet looking missile there Jim, but I gotta know....

What the heck did you do to your arm??

G.D.

(oh, and I'll be bringing a fresh roll of the good quality electrical tape to Red Glare....)
 
Yeah, I was just thinking it's easier to remove and replace if and when needed.

Bowline: https://www.animatedknots.com/bowline/

or

Water Bowline? :https://www.animatedknots.com/bowli...g&Website=www.animatedknots.com&Categ=boating

Hmm...looks like the difference is just an extra loop. Probably not necessary.

Double bowline might be more ideal. If you use a standard bowline, always check it before flight - like you would a quicklink. A stopper knot would also be a good idea.

One of my other hobbies is sailing, which means I use bowlines all the time. They're very strong, very secure knots, but they have one major flaw. When unloaded, it can sometimes work itself loose. Climbers almost never use a standard bowline for this reason, preferring the double bowline or figure eight. A disturbing number of climbing deaths can be attributed to bowlines coming undone or being tied improperly.

None of these knots are meant for flat webbing, but I haven't seen it become a problem with rocketry loads.

Climbers will often use an overhand on a bight with webbing. It's very secure, but almost impossible to untie once loaded so not ideal unless you're using a quicklink.

attachment.php
 
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Hey Jim,

I'm starting to work on mine so I thought I'd resurrect this thread for some help if you don't mind.


So, my motor mount assembly is complete and ready to go in. I was looking at your build and this seems to be the one thing you didn't cover. It seems to have happened stealthy in between posts 167-169. I've glued in many a motor mount, but never one as complicated as this with 4 centering rings. Do you have any tips? I can only figure out how to get epoxy on the top and bottom rings. Do you just ignore the center two?

Thanks
 
Think about this......REALLY think about this.:cool:

Why do you need to glue it in?
Think of just one reason, then skip ahead to the finished thought & you will see it's already in there....ala Prego

You did not miss a thing in my build. I did NOT glue in the MM assembly per say. I slide it in, make sure the fins fit , then tack them in. Then inject.

The recovery harness is on MM tube. No worries about pulling CR out.
Every CR get's glued to airframe from injecting fillets.
Every fins glued in place by injecting.

What purpose does gluing it in do, other than add weight?
Plenty of glue gets where it needs to be from injecting.

Do not think I'm being a smart ass, reading this myself, my intended tone does not come through.:no:

What I'm trying to convey is you must think differently about how building this way differs a great deal from what you are used to. Instead of doing A...then B .........then C.......etc.
Here you do A.........................then G
B...C...D.. all happen at once, in between. Saving time, glue & weight.:wink:
 
Once I clear off everything on my work bench I'm going to dive into this thing. Gonna be the first time injecting... Really I can't wait as it sounds so much simpler than trying to make other methods work in tight spaces.
 
Jim,
Thanks so much for this build how to. Your attention to detail is
amazing, I especially like how all of your pictures are sized the
same so your not having to move the pointer all over the place.
That being said,I think in post #363 your stated drill size for the
shear pins should be 5/64 not 7/64, I might be wrong but don't
think so. Again, great job, I learned so much from this!
Darrel
 
Jim,
Thanks so much for this build how to. Your attention to detail is
amazing, I especially like how all of your pictures are sized the
same so your not having to move the pointer all over the place.
That being said,I think in post #363 your stated drill size for the
shear pins should be 5/64 not 7/64, I might be wrong but don't
think so. Again, great job, I learned so much from this!
Darrel

I thought someone had posted about that, and just went back through the last several pages of this thread to find it.
Thanks Darrel.
Almost done with my 3" DS build. This thread has been a great source of information, just wish it could be cleaned up so you didn't have to go through all the off topic stuff to find what you need. Maybe just an index with post numbers for specific tasks?
 
To reduce confusion regarding the following posts, this edit has been added:

A complete list of all CJ's posts directly relating to this build thread is now a "Sticky" at the top of the "HPR" section.

Green Jello (Dave) is responsible.
 
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Yeah. It only took about 10 minutes really. I wish there wasn't a post character limit here. Otherwise, it would be best for the first post of each build thread to have the consolidated procedure all in one.
 
Here you go Wayne:

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86


I was bored, but not bored enough to label each step with that was covered. :)
I've requested that this particular post be sticky'd so we can follow along in the manner of a set of building destructions. :)
 
I've requested that this particular post be sticky'd so we can follow along in the manner of a set of building destructions. :)

I'm working on an index so we can go directly to the post that relates to a specific part of the build.

1,2 Chop Body tube
3,4,5 Glueless Nose cone
6 Vent band
8,9 Adapter
10 Sanding and marking MMT
11 Marking and filing slots in upper CR
12 Fitting kevlar to MMT
13 Mark fins and BT for external fillets
14 Sand fins
15 Sand BT and file injection holes
16 Glue Retainer
17 Glue bulkplates
18 Tack rear CR for tailcone
19 Tack 2nd CR
20, 21 Upper finset CR's
22 Fit and mark fins
23 Glue Cr's and recovery harness
24 Masking tape CR
25, 26, 27 Refit for snap-ring motors
28 Eyenut source and fin guide
29 Tack on rear fins
30Tack on upper fins
31, 32, 33 Explanation of tailcone fit


That's as far as I got tonight. How about some help? Maybe we can get GJ to edit his post with this list......
 
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I would love to edit this build thread properly for a sticky.
Problem is..... to do that I must be able to delete all the "chaff" not relating to the build.

I can only edit or delete my own posts. I do not have access to the rest. Maybe Troj & I can get together on it.

ThANKS one & all for the Honor.
 
As usual, I thoroughly enjoyed your thread and learned a ton of useful, practical stuff. I think that TRF should bestow the title of Professor to you. Professor Crazy Jim has a nice ring to it! Sign me up for classes! Thanks for documenting your techniques. Great stuff.

Chris
 
As usual, I thoroughly enjoyed your thread and learned a ton of useful, practical stuff. I think that TRF should bestow the title of Professor to you. Professor Crazy Jim has a nice ring to it! Sign me up for classes! Thanks for documenting your techniques. Great stuff.

Chris

Searching madly for the "like" button.

Oh,well...+1
 
OK, here's the rest of the index:

34, 35, 36 Inject internal fillets
37, 38 External fillets with Proline 4500
39 Cured fillets and "Stunt double" N/C
40, 41, 42 Avbay assembly
43 Glue vent band
44 Drill vent holes in Avbay
45 Drill payload rivet holes and index mark
46 Vent holes in payload and fincan
47, 48 Avbay sled
49 to 58 Mounting electronics on sled
59, 60 Drilling rail button holes
61 Parachutes and shock cord
62, 63 Recovery hook-ups
64, 65 Chute protectors from underwear
66 Blast shield
67 Complete recovery system
68 "Y" harness protection
69 Avbay flight prep.
70, 71 Making ejection charges
72 Switch wire installation
73 Closing avbay and switch wire
74 Rivets and shear pins explanation
75, 76 The "Black Pearl"
77 N/C shear pins
78 Key marks and protective tape
79 Protective tape on shear pins
80 Install rail buttons
81 Colored electrical tape
82 N/C eyenut and packing sequence
83, 84 Packing chute
85 Installing recovery system in payload
86 Tracker installation

 
Hey Wayne, I was going to edit my list of links for you but it's gone now :confused:

Edit: Nevermind. I see what they did. It's been saved as it's own thread now.
 
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This may sound like a dumb question, but where does one get a 3" darkstar? Was it only available for a limited time?
 
This may sound like a dumb question, but where does one get a 3" darkstar? Was it only available for a limited time?

Not a dumb question. It was part of a special "black Saturday" event a couple of years ago. You would need to see if Tim at Wildman hobbies would want to make another one or post a wanted add here on TRF, someone may sell you there's.
 
Not a dumb question. It was part of a special "black Saturday" event a couple of years ago. You would need to see if Tim at Wildman hobbies would want to make another one or post a wanted add here on TRF, someone may sell you there's.

Ahh ok. Makes a lot of sense now. I may do that, but I already have a DS jr. Two stage coming in tomorrow. Something like this would be a little down the road for me.
 
I came upon one on e-bay the other day. current bid was around $130.00
Mine was had after the sale through one of Wildman dealers for about $175.

A bunch of people hoarded them then, later resold them to turn a quick buck.

JD



This may sound like a dumb question, but where does one get a 3" darkstar? Was it only available for a limited time?
 
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