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Re: aluminum angle uses; small tubes (say, up to an inch or so) use 3/4" angle; 1 1/2" for larger tubes up to 3-4" diameter. Small angle on a large tube tends to "wiggle" a bit, the larger angle straddles a wider portion of the tube for better accuracy.
 
Re: aluminum angle uses; small tubes (say, up to an inch or so) use 3/4" angle; 1 1/2" for larger tubes up to 3-4" diameter. Small angle on a large tube tends to "wiggle" a bit, the larger angle straddles a wider portion of the tube for better accuracy.
I added your suggestion. I agree that you need to adjust the size of the angle for the size of the tube.
 
Well, not a thread but while working on my Estes Shuttle, I came up with a better way to dispense Titebond III onto Estes parts...

I used masking tape to close off most of the tip, leaving just a ~18 gauge sized hole (Blue speck on the left end of the tip).

Tip Of The Day-Titebond Tip_1-Small.jpg

Now I have really fine control of the dispensed glue.

Tip Of The Day-Titebond Tip_2-Small.jpg
 
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When mounting railbuttons using weldnuts try this method I learned on TRF some time ago.

To find the predrilled rail button hole I cut a piece of machine screw of the right thread size so I have what is essentially a small threaded rod (all thread) to locate the hole with.

To reach inside the airframe when attaching a weldnut for rail button put a pea-sized ball of putty on the end of something you can get down the tube, here an aluminum angle.
Using a toothpick add epoxy or JB Weld
Mark the angle beforehand at the distance to the hole so you can find it easily.

Once the JB or epoxy sets up a bit I swap out with temporary extra long screws so the weld nut thread is perfectly aligned with the center of the airframe as well as lined up with the other rail button nut. A parallax view if you will
.
 

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Well, not a thread but while working on my Estes Shuttle, I came up with a better way to dispense Titebond III onto Estes parts...

I used masking tape to close off most of the tip, leaving just a ~18 gauge sized hole (Blue speck on the left end of the tip).

View attachment 578253

Now I have really fine control of the dispensed glue.

View attachment 578254

Swap out the top to the glue bottle
https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/tips-and-technique-of-the-day-thread.177679/post-2418884
 
On the ignition end of things, I've found that the Gold-plated alligator clips aren't as susceptible to corrosion from propellant And that the silicone-insulated wire from amazon is also impervious to the heat. Digikey has gold- plated clips in two sizes.
 
On the ignition end of things, I've found that the Gold-plated alligator clips aren't as susceptible to corrosion from propellant And that the silicone-insulated wire from amazon is also impervious to the heat. Digikey has gold- plated clips in two sizes.
Can you send me a link to the Gold plated alligator clips that you use?
 
One way to dress up any basic rocket is with paper wraps. I use them for Command Service Modules on the Estes Saturn kits that are my "flyers". Other kits like the Dr. Zooch kits were perfect for making realistic semi-scale rockets that fly really well.

The one problem I have with paper wraps is the printing doesn't go all the way through the paper. If you have seam on a dark background, you might end up with a white paper line on the print.

To avoid this, one day at the bench, I took a break and snuck into my wife's scrapbooking stash and grabbed a black acid free marker and "edged" the paper wrap. It instantly disappeared against the dark background. The "acid free" is important so it won't bleed over time and stain the rest of the paper wrap. Avoid using a regular "Sharpie" as they can bleed through the paper. Sharpie does make an acid-free version, you just have to look out for it. I've upped my game a little by using the appropriate color when called for on the design. However, you can't go wrong with basic black. It tends to fade away into the rest of the design.

Here is an example of a marker from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/ZIG-Memory-S...97214&sprefix=acid+free+marker,aps,376&sr=8-7
I'll warn you in advance...if it says; "scrapbooking" anywhere near it, it will be pricey 😆1682997778039.png1682997886492.png
 
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Well, not a thread but while working on my Estes Shuttle, I came up with a better way to dispense Titebond III onto Estes parts...

I used masking tape to close off most of the tip, leaving just a ~18 gauge sized hole (Blue speck on the left end of the tip).

View attachment 578253

Now I have really fine control of the dispensed glue.

View attachment 578254
Added today - proof that there is more than one solution to the problem.
 
Ok, I ran stats for the first 90 days. I removed myself from the stats.

Leaders:
  1. @dr wogz - 19
  2. @KenECoyote - 7.33
  3. @prfesser - 7
Thanks for you help and keep it coming.


happy team usa GIF by U.S. Figure Skating
 
If you use plastic zip ties for your altimeter bay (and not already doing so), use releasable ones.
  • No need to cut old ones and find new ones.
  • Quickly change batteries even in the field without cutting tools and new ties.
  • More ecological and sensible (no worries about taking bits of cut zip tie trash off the field).
I found these at Walmart:
20230502_230600.jpg
 
If you use plastic zip ties for your altimeter bay (and not already doing so), use releasable ones.
  • No need to cut old ones and find new ones.
  • Quickly change batteries even in the field without cutting tools and new ties.
  • More ecological and sensible (no worries about taking bits of cut zip tie trash off the field).
I found these at Walmart:
View attachment 578564
Nice one. I wish they made them smaller.
 
ORIGAMI BLACK POWDER FUNNEL/ TRICKLER/ SCOOP

Learn origami while working with explosives!

Material required: Index card.
20230502_231644.jpg

Step 1: Fold index card upwards in half lengthwise.
20230502_231710.jpg

Step 2: Fold one corner upwards.
20230502_231728.jpg

Step 3: Unfold the corner and open the card, then flip the corner in and viola... you've learned origami!
20230502_231753.jpg

Pour the BP into the card and the crease allows precise pouring (this is actually my setup and method).
20230502_232010.jpg
You can tap it with a finger to slowly trickle a bit in.

If you overshoot it, it's very simple to just pour the extra bp out back into the card.
20230502_232041.jpg

I made one years ago for pouring out bp on a scale and I'm still using the same one!
 
On the ignition end of things, I've found that the Gold-plated alligator clips aren't as susceptible to corrosion from propellant And that the silicone-insulated wire from amazon is also impervious to the heat. Digikey has gold- plated clips in two sizes.
Added as yesterday's tip
 
One way to dress up any basic rocket is with paper wraps. I use them for Command Service Modules on the Estes Saturn kits that are my "flyers". Other kits like the Dr. Zooch kits were perfect for making realistic semi-scale rockets that fly really well.

The one problem I have with paper wraps is the printing doesn't go all the way through the paper. If you have seam on a dark background, you might end up with a white paper line on the print.

To avoid this, one day at the bench, I took a break and snuck into my wife's scrapbooking stash and grabbed a black acid free marker and "edged" the paper wrap. It instantly disappeared against the dark background. The "acid free" is important so it won't bleed over time and stain the rest of the paper wrap. Avoid using a regular "Sharpie" as they can bleed through the paper. Sharpie does make an acid-free version, you just have to look out for it. I've upped my game a little by using the appropriate color when called for on the design. However, you can't go wrong with basic black. It tends to fade away into the rest of the design.

Here is an example of a marker from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/ZIG-Memory-S...97214&sprefix=acid+free+marker,aps,376&sr=8-7
I'll warn you in advance...if it says; "scrapbooking" anywhere near it, it will be pricey 😆View attachment 578390View attachment 578392

Added as today's tip!
 
Ever get to the launch lug/ rail button install at the end and realized that you forgot to mark it off (or painted over the markings) and there's stuff in the way of using your nifty angle stock tube marker? 🤦‍♂️

Just tape on an Estes lp launch rod to the outside edge of the angle stock marker to extend it through narrow areas for marking! 🤓

20230504_225540.jpg
 
Ever grab a can of paint to spray outside only to see that it requires a screwdriver and you don't have one with you? Annoying, isn't it?

20230505_090531.jpg

Here's a trick. After opening it, use something to cut a slit in the inside ring that holds the lid in place. Now you don't need a screwdriver!
20230505_090558.jpg
Note to store safely away from children (small children, not grown children ;)).
 
When mounting railbuttons using weldnuts try this method I learned on TRF some time ago.

To find the predrilled rail button hole I cut a piece of machine screw of the right thread size so I have what is essentially a small threaded rod (all thread) to locate the hole with.

To reach inside the airframe when attaching a weldnut for rail button put a pea-sized ball of putty on the end of something you can get down the tube, here an aluminum angle.
Using a toothpick add epoxy or JB Weld
Mark the angle beforehand at the distance to the hole so you can find it easily.

Once the JB or epoxy sets up a bit I swap out with temporary extra long screws so the weld nut thread is perfectly aligned with the center of the airframe as well as lined up with the other rail button nut. A parallax view if you will
.
Added today.
 
Thanks for all the tips. I have a couple to add from the past.

If you are building rockets or flying and think of a small tip, post it here. If you know of another post that already exist with a tip you use all the time, send me a link.
 
Clear plastic coin tubes are useful for organizing small parts. They come in a variety of sizes. They're good for keeping the smalls organized at home, plus a good way to take a small amount of spares to the range. I also take several OTC meds in small amounts (allergy meds, tummy meds, etc.). Labeling is really important in all of the above.

tubes.jpg
 
Clear plastic coin tubes are useful for organizing small parts. They come in a variety of sizes. They're good for keeping the smalls organized at home, plus a good way to take a small amount of spares to the range. I also take several OTC meds in small amounts (allergy meds, tummy meds, etc.). Labeling is really important in all of the above.
Added for today.
 
Well, not a thread but while working on my Estes Shuttle, I came up with a better way to dispense Titebond III onto Estes parts...

I used masking tape to close off most of the tip, leaving just a ~18 gauge sized hole (Blue speck on the left end of the tip).

View attachment 578253

Now I have really fine control of the dispensed glue.
I remove the flat slot nozzle and screw on a nozzle from an Elmer's Glue All bottle.
Both glue bottles have matching threads.
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2012/01/tip-better-nozzle-for-titebond-molding.html
 

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Ever get to the launch lug/ rail button install at the end and realized that you forgot to mark it off (or painted over the markings) and there's stuff in the way of using your nifty angle stock tube marker? 🤦‍♂️

Just tape on an Estes lp launch rod to the outside edge of the angle stock marker to extend it through narrow areas for marking! 🤓

View attachment 578935

Added for today.
 
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