Let's see your Jawstand - Rail adapters

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I cut the rail in half so I could fit it in my car (I drive a Honda Fit, which has a cavernous cargo hold when the back seats are folded down, but is still quite short from the rear hatch to the dashboard). The two pieces are joined with three 8" long aluminum plates.

Looks like the jawstand, 2x4, blast plate, and 1/2 the rail are permanently attached together, whereas the other 1/2 of the rail is essentially the only removable part for transport. Is that correct?
 
I purposely bought three shorter pieces, one six-footer and two four footers. I use these to connect them -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLT5J8...olid=34100DE4CHPX5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
They fit inside the rail slots and are tightened with the set screws. I permanently have them mounted on the two 4' section so I can make any of the following combinations - 6', 8', 10', 14'. 8' is enough for most launches, but I do have a design for the H13ST that can use the 14' length.
 
Looks like the jawstand, 2x4, blast plate, and 1/2 the rail are permanently attached together, whereas the other 1/2 of the rail is essentially the only removable part for transport. Is that correct?
The only permanent part of the assembly is the lower rail, aluminum flanges and 2x4. That unit is separated from the jawstand by removing the six 1/4" bolts that attach the aluminum flanges to the Jawstand flanges. The blast deflector can be detached by removing four 10/24 machine screws and one 1/4" bolt.

That leaves four pieces: the bare Jawstand, the deflector, the lower rail/2x4/flange unit, and the upper rail.

It takes 15 minutes to set up or tear down.
 
The only permanent part of the assembly is the lower rail, aluminum flanges and 2x4. That unit is separated from the jawstand by removing the six 1/4" bolts that attach the aluminum flanges to the Jawstand flanges. The blast deflector can be detached by removing four 10/24 machine screws and one 1/4" bolt.

That leaves four pieces: the bare Jawstand, the deflector, the lower rail/2x4/flange unit, and the upper rail.

It takes 15 minutes to set up or tear down.

Very nice construction. Yes, I saw all the bolts and screws. I was just wondering how much of the assembly you are doing in the field. 11 connections and 15 minutes is a bit more than I want to deal with!
 
As big as that lake bed is, I always seem to lose my rocket there.
I don't go down there unless it's a day with 5 mph winds or less. (The Jean Ridge has a wind sensor that I check in Windfinder. It's pretty accurate up to about four days out.) My launches return pretty close. The farthest has been about 700 feet away, on a 2500-foot apogee; the closest, 125 feet away on a 1600-foot apogee.
 
Started working on mine but noticed my 1010 rail has a very slight bend to it. Not completely straight. Is this a big issue? Obviously not ideal, but at what point is it too much?
 
Started working on mine but noticed my 1010 rail has a very slight bend to it. Not completely straight. Is this a big issue? Obviously not ideal, but at what point is it too much?
If the rockets bind its a big deal, if they slide smoothly not a big deal, check all four slots, if one or two or three are good and one is bad, mark the bad one wirh red paint and dont use it. Typically rails bend in one direction so opposing slots might be bad, but adjacent slots are still okay.
 
Started working on mine but noticed my 1010 rail has a very slight bend to it. Not completely straight. Is this a big issue? Obviously not ideal, but at what point is it too much?
Here’s what happens with a bent rail
 

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I took a completely different approach to that mentioned above. I bought the jaw stand and then threw away the jaw, pivot and clamp. Essentially the only part of the jaw stand I'm using is the tripod.

I then took some pipe U clamps and drilled the centre of the plate to M5 and put M5 T-nuts in the rail. I then bolted the U clamps to the rail by tightening M5 bolts and clamped the rail assembly to the round base of the tripod. This gives me a very sturdy fit at the cost of no ability to set the angle. Since I don't like launching in high winds (gives me shivers just to think about it) having a fixed vertical rail suits me just fine.

For security I then pin the tripod to the ground with galvanised rebar-style pegs.
 
I took a completely different approach to that mentioned above. I bought the jaw stand and then threw away the jaw, pivot and clamp. Essentially the only part of the jaw stand I'm using is the tripod.

I then took some pipe U clamps and drilled the centre of the plate to M5 and put M5 T-nuts in the rail. I then bolted the U clamps to the rail by tightening M5 bolts and clamped the rail assembly to the round base of the tripod. This gives me a very sturdy fit at the cost of no ability to set the angle. Since I don't like launching in high winds (gives me shivers just to think about it) having a fixed vertical rail suits me just fine.

For security I then pin the tripod to the ground with galvanised rebar-style pegs.

Pictures?! 😊
 
I didnt, go the jawstand route, just bought an LED worklight stand for $20
 

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10 foot 1515 rail using Rockwell stand. Orange straps to prevent rail whip in high acceleration rocket
 

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I purposely bought three shorter pieces, one six-footer and two four footers. I use these to connect them -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLT5J8...olid=34100DE4CHPX5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
They fit inside the rail slots and are tightened with the set screws. I permanently have them mounted on the two 4' section so I can make any of the following combinations - 6', 8', 10', 14'. 8' is enough for most launches, but I do have a design for the H13ST that can use the 14' length.
Where can I buy some of these for a 1010 rail. I like the idea of being able to break it down into smaller pieces.
 
[...]

The rail attaches to the 2x4 with two gussets; one at the top of the 2x4, the other at the bottom.

View attachment 502210

The standoff is an inside corner bracket.

View attachment 502211

The blast deflector is 12x18 inch 22 gauge stainless steel sheet, and fastens to the 2x4 at the rear with corner braces. The front of the deflector is braced with a 1/8 inch thick aluminum strip, attached at the base of the rail with a 1/4 inch bolt.

View attachment 502213 View attachment 502214

[...]

I'm trying to decide how to attach my rail to either a 2x4 or 2x6... are the two gussets enough alone? Should I "screw" the rail to the wood in some fashion?
 
The gussets are all I use to attach the rail to the 2x4. I used #14x3" lag screws to go through the gusset into the top and bottom of the 2x4. That gave me good, stout threads biting into the wood. (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-14...nterior-Exterior-Wood-Screws-20-Count/3006206). Be sure and drill a pilot hole in the 2x4 first, otherwise the screw will crack the board. For that screw, I'd use a 3/16" drill bit. That's the size of the screw shank. The threads are wider and will bite into the wood. Drill as deep as the screw is long (3").

Also, make sure your rail is tight against the 2x4 along the length of the board when you're measuring for holes, and when actually sinking the screws into the wood. If there's a gap, any rough handling of the assembly can cause the rail to move independently from the board in very small amounts. Over time, the amount of movement increases, and the screws will widen the holes they're sunk in, eventually pulling out of the hole.

I don't throw the rail/2x4 assembly around when loading and unloading into the back of my car, or when setting up and tearing down. But I don't baby it either. And it's still as solid as the day I first built it.
 
@CrazyDiamond - Do you have a source for hardware? If not, let me know. I got all my stuff, including the rail, from Grainger. Everything you'll need to work with 1010 or 1015 rails. I can point you to specific parts I used in my build if you'd like.

Hey, thanks for the reply! I'm in Canada and finding a source for the parts took a while. I bought an 8' 1010 rail from Acklands Grainger too, but it was overpriced and the one I got is very slightly bent and pretty dirty. It sounds like taking some 10% vinegar and a Scotch-Brite pad should clean it up enough though.

I discovered Rocky Mountain Motion Control a couple of days ago. They seem like a great option for Canadians. Ordered some hardware through them. Would love to know what parts you used in your build! I'm doing something very similar
 
I discovered Rocky Mountain Motion Control a couple of days ago. They seem like a great option for Canadians. Ordered some hardware through them. Would love to know what parts you used in your build! I'm doing something very similar

It looks like Rocky Mountain and Grainger have the same hardware. I'll give you links on Rocky Mountain's web site for the same parts I bought from Grainger. There are only three different items—double T nuts and screws, which I used to attach the upper and lower gussets to the rail, and to join two rail pieces end-to-end using 1 in x 8 in x .125 in flat aluminum, and an inside corner bracket that the rocket rests on once it's on the rail.

Double T nut: https://quickshop.rmmc.net/collections/10-series/products/3280-1-4-20-double-slide-in-economy-t-nut
Screws: https://quickshop.rmmc.net/collections/10-series/products/3065
Gusset: https://quickshop.rmmc.net/collections/10-series/products/4136
Inside corner bracket: https://quickshop.rmmc.net/collections/10-series/products/4119

This is what I bought from Lowes:

Angle aluminum: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks...-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Solid-Angle/3053619
Sheet metal (blast deflector): https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-12-in-x-18-in-Cold-Rolled-Steel-Solid/3059293
Corner braces for blast deflector: https://www.lowes.com/pd/ReliaBilt-ReliaBilt-1-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Corner-Brace-4-Pack/5005366309

I used 2"x.25" bolts for attaching the aluminum to the 2x4, and .75"x.25" bolts to attach the 2x4/aluminum assembly to the Jawstand.

If you're going to do the rail and 2x4 like I did, mark the sides of the aluminum that will be against the 2x4 so the holes are lined up in both pieces. (The bolts will go all the way through.) Drill your aluminum, then lay those pieces on a flat workbench with the 2x4 in between, so everything is flat against the workbench. Clamp the aluminum to the 2x4 on both ends, then drill through the aluminum into the 2x4 a little over halfway through. Then finish the holes from the other side. While the assembly is still clamped, bolt everything together using flat washers against the aluminum on both sides.

Then put that assembly against the top of the Jawstand's flange (I removed the rubber strips from the flange first), lining up the edges of the aluminum with the edges of the flange, then mark your hole through the holes in the flange onto your aluminum. Then drill those holes, and bolt the assembly to the Jawstand.

Then attach the rail to the 2x4 with the gussets, T nuts, and wood screws.

If you follow those steps, it will be easier to attach the rail and get it lined up with the 2x4 assembly, which will be lined up with the Jawstand. That ensures that the rail is vertical when you raise the Jawstand, and not pointing a little off to one side or the other.

The only other tip I'd give you is for attaching the gusset. Take an oversized drill bit and chamfer the two holes that the wood screws will go through. Then line up the gusset at the edge of the 2x4 and drill both holes. Then sink your wood screws all the way down into the chamfer. That way, when you set the bottom screw into the rail hardware, it will clear the head of the inside wood screw. (That's why you don't want to use bolts in the 2x4.)

Other than that, I used two corner braces to attach the blast deflector to the bottom of the 2x4, using machine screws and nuts for metal-to-metal, and wood screws for metal-to-wood.

Hope that helps. Give me a shout if you have more questions.
 
A very simple adapter... the plate is doubled 3/4" ply, with a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" added to stand rail further away from plate. blast deflector is steel sheet mounted on arms bent 45°. The 8' 1010 rail is overkill, would have been fine (and easier to transport) with a 6 footer.

View attachment 324414

While I like this design, as it fully utilizes the whole rail length, when I tried this, for 4+-fin rockets, you can get fin interference with a backing board. I had to put the stop near the top of the Jawstand, rather than near the bottom. Nike Smoke fins would hold the rocket up, because the fins would interfere with the Jawstand, unless the rail was moved away from the flat flange of the stand..

This is a non-issue with small rockets. Just watch your fin clearance.
 
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