RPMyers
Member
Sgince Future Floor gloss ( and it's later incarnations) is no longer available can anyone suggest a good alternative?
Finishing Gloss
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goose_in_co
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I'm looking as well. My 15+ year old bottle of future will not leave a gloss finish anymore. On other forums one recommendation is Quick Shine Floor Finish. I am going to look for some and try it out on a couple of lesser builds to make sure that it work.
Krylon makes a clear acrylic spray. If you want a really high gloss finish, I got a can of this at a local O'Reilly's auto store. I want to find more of it: Duplicolor 1KCG 1K Gloss Clear Coat Spray Paint Aerosol 12oz. High gloss stuff. Attached is a clip of my Der Big Red Max with a coat of Duplicolor CERAMIC engine paint (Chrysler Red) followed a couple days later with the Duplicolor 1K Clear Coat spray.
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Acrylic spray works great until it doesn't and crinkles the paint and decals. The only thing you can do then is put a large motor in and send it. That said, my Estes MR crinkled but has been very lucky and always comes back no matter how big of a motor I put into it.
I've had mixed luck with acrylic sprays as well in the past. The Dupli-color paints have been the best I've used. I get them at local auto parts stores and they are not cheap--now $10-13 per can. ouch.
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If you ever get tired of it, sand it down and refinish it nicely. Sure to vaporize on the next launch.
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I've done some research into this (well, anecdotal research)...., and I've determined that HUMIDITY causes paint to "craze" or crinkle, especially when you're applying clear coat. If you spray on a humid day your chances of crazing are high, if you spray on a low humidity day, you should be able to get away with it.
The models on here are beautiful. IMHO the best clear is 2 part auto paint. I use PPG Omni. Won't yellow over time, is pretty tough, very smooth. I know most do not have the equipment to spray it. I have seen somewhere there is a place that has it in a spray bomb. When you shake it, it mixes the 2 parts. All though, spraying this is not all that hard. Get a gun from Harbor Freight, Spray in your garage on a non windy day, night works well. Maybe lay down plastic you don't want over spray on. Always test, practice on scrap first.
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I too was a diehard Future/Pledge Revive It fanboy. Some of the plastic model guys have been touting this stuff:
I haven't tried it yet. Anymore, if a model doesn't have decals to protect, I let the gloss from Rusto or Krylon speak for itself.
Also discussed in this thread:
//www.rocketryforum.com/threads/the-future-of-future.171043/#post-2242720
I haven't tried it yet. Anymore, if a model doesn't have decals to protect, I let the gloss from Rusto or Krylon speak for itself.
Also discussed in this thread:
//www.rocketryforum.com/threads/the-future-of-future.171043/#post-2242720
jahhash
Active Member
Do you use sanding sealer or filler on the wood? Cremaic engine paint? Looks really nice, how many coats and what primer do you use? Looks awesome.
2K clear coat in a can. I use it for lots of things. My 20 year old truck headlights/blinkers/markers look BRAND new after 3 years with 2K clear on top of my prep work. RODI water clear.
The fins in the picture are balsa core covered with cardstock paper. That aside, I seal balsa fins with either 2 coats sanding sealer (get small bottle at e-Rockets) or thin CA. For plywood, I don't seal at all. After sealing, I do 2-3 rounds of spraying with sandable primer followed by sanding it off with 220-400 grit paper. Then final coat of primer and on to finish paint. The Big DBRM above has two coats of dupli-color Chrysler Red- light coat followed by heavier one to get the paint to flow and smooth. The 1K Clear Coat was applied the same way two days later. Have not done any follow-on wet sanding/buffing.
The ceramic paint is made for high temp application to engines. I started using it because it came in bright orange, and I had a rocket I wanted to paint orange. So I discovered it by accident, but I really like the way this paint flows when you give it a heavy application. BTW, if you have a spray gun and the setup/PPE stuff, the automotive paints give excellent performance. I did an Aerotech rocket years ago with automotive paint and clear coat and it was smooth and hard. But you need respirator and tyvek overalls to safely use it because it had an activator that appeared to be similar to CA glue (cyanoacrylate).
Well, Rusto specifies painting when humidity is less than 65%.... are you talking about having crazing problems when painting above or below that threshold?
For sure, dry weather is better for painting.
The key to a gloss finish is use compatible color and clear coats and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. I remember the instructions on my spray paint cans was to shoot additional color coats in 20 minutes. Then WAIT like 72 hours before shooting the clear. I always waited a week before shooting the clear coat. In the meantime there was always imperfections and runs in the color coat I had to wet sand out anyways.
I had the experience of crinkled color coats in the past. It was the time before I started reading the instructions on the cans!! Kurt
I had the experience of crinkled color coats in the past. It was the time before I started reading the instructions on the cans!! Kurt
jahhash
Active Member
Thanks for the reply! I also like the wood to be smooth, I have been using wood filler and like it, I had used paper laminate before but didn't particularly appreciate how the edges were so fragile. Great tips I will be adding to my Rocketry painting skills, Definitely going to try the clear coat and the ceramic paint.
I like that it's gluten free. Next time I drink a bottle of floor polish, this will be my go-to.
Hans,.
Very important.
There's an old SNL sketch floating around about a floor cleaner/desert topping. The old Future had a very pleasant aroma.
I don't remember a "pleasant" smelling floor care product. I DO remember doing a LOT of floor care, but pleasant was not an adjective attached to that pursuit.Very important.
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I have actually forgotten about an unfinished rocket because I was waiting for it to cure.
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Hope it didn’t succumb to old age.I have actually forgotten about an unfinished rocket because I was waiting for it to cure.
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
That's weird? I thought the only time an Acrylic top coat was problematic was if it was over an acrylic base coat?
Don't know but made me wonder what the difference between enamel and lacquer was.
https://www.differencebetween.com/difference-between-lacquer-and-vs-enamel/
Kinda reinforces my default top coat choice to be some form of "Polycrylic". I've used it a lot elsewhere. I would like to have a readily available source of 2K, high-heat clear material to mix-n-spray. But I'm going to start spraying thinned "Polycrylic" from a can soon. Much more economical and better results...
Really dig that article. An old(er) man remembers WHY so many fights started over one man sitting or touching another man's paint job.
Lacquer... layers and layers.... hand rubbed and polished incessantly.
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Thank you Ronz for the link to the explanation...
When I was first getting back into rocketry, I build an Estes Extreme 12, put a lot of effort into making it "look good" at the time I was using Rusto 2x ... so I primed it, lightly sanded it, applied a couple of coats of gloss white, (it was looking GOOD) waited a few days, applied the decals (now it was looking REALLY GOOD), waited a few more days and then went to apply a Rusto 2x Clear gloss over everything to help secure the decals and to protect the paint...started spraying the rocket and it was going really well........and then it happened...it started to crinkle and crinkle a lot...looks kinda cool now, but definitely not GOOD...I tried contacting Rusto about the issue but running into a brick wall, full tilt without a helmet would have been less painful...
Apparently, even though I had left the rocket to dry for about a week or so, it wasn't cured enough to accept the top coat.
since then I have tried numerous other ways of doing my painting. Then one day I was watching a YT video by FlyFalcon (?) when he was building his Drago...and was using Duplicolor, but reminded everyone to be very careful about mixing types of paint, enamel, lacquer, etc. and to follow the directions on the can regarding re-coats and drying time between coats - either re-coat within/after "xx" minutes or let dry for "xx" hours.
Anyways, I thought I would give Duplicolor a try so I had to find a dealer in my area...turns out that was easier than I thought, but it isn't cheap (about $20-21/can Cdn $ or $15-16 US)
Duplicolor also makes a few different primers - their filler primer works well and sands pretty well also.
I now primarily use Duplicolor, but have used Rusto a few times since, but in either case, if it says re-coat after 15 minutes but less than one hour, or wait 48 hours, that's what I do...after the paint is "dry" and I don't want to take any chances, I will also place it outside in the sun (or even in a sunny room in the house) for a few hours to make sure it is well "gassed off" - that strong fresh paint smell has pretty much faded completely - before even attempting a glossy coat.
When I was first getting back into rocketry, I build an Estes Extreme 12, put a lot of effort into making it "look good" at the time I was using Rusto 2x ... so I primed it, lightly sanded it, applied a couple of coats of gloss white, (it was looking GOOD) waited a few days, applied the decals (now it was looking REALLY GOOD), waited a few more days and then went to apply a Rusto 2x Clear gloss over everything to help secure the decals and to protect the paint...started spraying the rocket and it was going really well........and then it happened...it started to crinkle and crinkle a lot...looks kinda cool now, but definitely not GOOD...I tried contacting Rusto about the issue but running into a brick wall, full tilt without a helmet would have been less painful...
Apparently, even though I had left the rocket to dry for about a week or so, it wasn't cured enough to accept the top coat.
since then I have tried numerous other ways of doing my painting. Then one day I was watching a YT video by FlyFalcon (?) when he was building his Drago...and was using Duplicolor, but reminded everyone to be very careful about mixing types of paint, enamel, lacquer, etc. and to follow the directions on the can regarding re-coats and drying time between coats - either re-coat within/after "xx" minutes or let dry for "xx" hours.
Anyways, I thought I would give Duplicolor a try so I had to find a dealer in my area...turns out that was easier than I thought, but it isn't cheap (about $20-21/can Cdn $ or $15-16 US)
Duplicolor also makes a few different primers - their filler primer works well and sands pretty well also.
I now primarily use Duplicolor, but have used Rusto a few times since, but in either case, if it says re-coat after 15 minutes but less than one hour, or wait 48 hours, that's what I do...after the paint is "dry" and I don't want to take any chances, I will also place it outside in the sun (or even in a sunny room in the house) for a few hours to make sure it is well "gassed off" - that strong fresh paint smell has pretty much faded completely - before even attempting a glossy coat.
