3D Printing What Are You Printing Today?

[kalsow]

@kalsow
Change n_bridges = circumfrence / (4/3 * Shoulder_Bridge_Max); to n_bridges =1+round( circumfrence / (4/3 * Shoulder_Bridge_Max)); to give you an integer number plus 1. It will round down or up so you want the gap to be less than the set size. Get rid of the half gap.

Yep, I noticed that "feature". But, it's more complicated. If your nose cone is too big for you printer platform , the program will cut it into sections that fit. Then you'd want the supports to spread evenly between each edge of each section. I decided that If you're not happy with the support spacing, it's easy adjust Shoulder_Bridge_Max to make it prettier. In the end all of these supports get cut off!

 

[rharshberger]

Just finished! After 11 days plus a bit for both parts. The upper section weighs 247g, the lower section 310g and the throwaway bits (which get used for miniatures wargamming terrain) about 165g for supports. Very pleased with the final parts, and the total mass of filament used was about 721g so it was about 100g or so lighter than Cura estimated.

 

[Kelly]

Impressive; nice job.

 

[OzHybrid]

Looks good. You can sleep soundly now....

 

[Tobor]

Not rocketry related but still neat...

A fellow church member donated some used PC components to upgrade the computer used for worship service. But, the motherboard's original rear IO shield was not usable so I designed and printed a replacement for the new PC case (Cooler Master NR600). IO shield was printed with Hatchbox PETG Gold filament.

 

[Bravo52]

Printed this beauty today out of necessity. While not rocket related, it could very well be considered one of the greatest devices invented for mankind...

 

[rharshberger]

A new version of my Lil' Fusion Apogee Deployment Bay for Eggtimer Quark. The nose cone section had to be modified t allow for some wiring issues and to allow every thing to be removeable if necessary without cutting wires or other stuff.

 

[Huxter]

10 gram Baffle for BT-55 tube (Super Orbital Transport) - translucent PETG. 6 bottom layers - 4 on top - "feels" just right!



"Smiley" (top) end on the left:

 

[Chad]

Nose cone ebay for a 54mm rocket. This is the second version, first one took a hard landing and broke but electronics survived. AltusMetrum easy timer, easymini, and a featherweight gps. No wires or batteries yet (batteries mount on the back). The design isn’t perfect but I’ll fly this iteration until it breaks and then on to the next.

 

[dr wogz]

'proof of concept' for an alignment jig here at work.. 14hr print!

 

[dr wogz]

retried one of the parts, but this time I finally tweaked 3 settings t see if I can improve my ABS printing.. I've been having some layer separation & some layers were just weak..

increase the nozzle temp to 240°C from 235°C
reduced the bed temp to 90°C form 100°C
reduced the print speed to 3600mm/min from 6000mm/min

print time increased by a 1/3. expected. will see how this works.



Also, finished the 'user manual' for our 'at work training' on our printers..

 

[DRAGON64]

It has been a minute since I used my 3D printer, it would seem that I need to tweak my settings again. I am printing some permanently mounted fin alignment guides to fit a 54mm mount, inside a 3" airframe. The first test prints came out a little 'stringy' to say the least. I am using PetG.

 

[Huxter]

I believe I got these settings from @cwbullet to help w stringing:

Travel Retraction:
Distance 7
Speed 50
Min Travel 1.2

These are probably what Prusa calls the settings. I almost always take a heat gun to the prints too - post processing

Good Luck

 

[cwbullet]

Just finished! After 11 days plus a bit for both parts. The upper section weighs 247g, the lower section 310g and the throwaway bits (which get used for miniatures wargamming terrain) about 165g for supports. Very pleased with the final parts, and the total mass of filament used was about 721g so it was about 100g or so lighter than Cura estimated.

That is the dimensions on that?

 

[alexzogh]

Stringy PETG prints for me are almost always due to the PETG being slightly hygroscopic and absorbing water no matter how well it's been stored. ABS, PLA, and others are also (or even more) hygroscopic, but they are not nearly as sensitive to moisture when printing. 4-8 hours of drying at 70c will solve stringing for me. I have adapted settings to try and compensate when I'm in a hurry (specifically increase retraction, decrease the temperature, and increase travel speed) but that is just masking the problem. layer adhesion will still be reduced, and you won't know it until the part breaks easily.

 

[DRAGON64]

Although still a little stringy, here are the first set of permanently mounted fin alignment guides for my current build.



This is a solution to building a strong fin can, with fins that are aligned longetudinal as well as perpendicular to the airframe. They will also add strength and reinforcement to the root ends of the fins.




There are 3 pieces, and each piece has 3 holes, that will allow JB Weld to ooze through, kind of creating a rivet feature... essentially it just gives the epoxy a place to go in order to allow for a flush mount.

 

[rharshberger]

That is the dimensions on that?

Its specific to an 8" sonotube diameter (dont remember if its just under or just over 8" )and iirc its 16" from bottom of shoulder to "tip" of nosecone.

 

[cwbullet]

Wow, That is a long print. I do have one that took me eight days.

 

[alexzogh]

Finished a Menorah for Hannukah. Just put in the candles to test it... looks pretty good.




Modeled it for the really cheap tea lights from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Unscented-Tealight-Candles-200-Pack/dp/B081F742CT/

 

[cwbullet]

Nice. Does anyone have a cool rocketry item for me to print this week?

 

[rharshberger]

Wow, That is a long print. I do have one that took me eight days.

Yes it was, the material was PETG through a .4mm nozzle and the printer is a Creality CR-10V2.

 

[cwbullet]

Yes it was, the material was PETG through a .4mm nozzle and the printer is a Creality CR-10V2.

For larger prints, I recommend a 0.8mm nozzle.

 

[rharshberger]

For larger prints, I recommend a 0.8mm nozzle.

Its what I had and didn't need to play with the settings, not sure I can get enough material through a .8 nozzle fast and hot enough, with out slowing the print speed way down.

 

[alexzogh]

Nice. Does anyone have a cool rocketry item for me to print this week?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5647747

 

[alexzogh]

Just finished a picnic table for squirrels. I'm hoping if I feed them away from our Chickens so they will stop trying to get into the hen houses.



Helped one of my daughters make an ornament for the Christmas Tree


View attachment video_2022-12-11_02-07-27.mp4

 

[Doug Holverson]

Specialty clamps to hold down a Flagship RCRG fuselage on the fuselage jig.

 

[GrouchoDuke]

Just finished a picnic table for squirrels

How do you like your Bambu? I keep alllmost pre-ordering a P1P. By any chance have you done any network monitoring of what it's doing? I'd love to get some first hand traffic data on their stuff. The company many of the employees came from doesn't exactly have the best network security track record -- and it seems like Bambu is following in line with that.

The P1P sure seems like a great deal. I'm tempted to get one and keep it isolated on my network.

 

[alexzogh]

I can't comment on the P1P, but I do like the X1. Nice to have a printer that "just works", especially for color prints. Getting a little more frustrated with the proprietary nature of some things. the 3MF files it creates are not industry standard, so you won't be able to open them in other tools, you will have to save models as STL's which will remove many Bambu specific things (part coloring, history, etc...). We are relying on them for bug fixes since some things like the firmware are not open source. I have an outstanding 'bug' that's driving me crazy that's in their backlog, but they've labeled it a 'feature'...

I have two AMS's, and, as long you are picky about the filament you put in, they work great. I've had 5-day color prints with 6000+ color changes work without any intervention.

Much of what I print that isn't color needs a bigger printer though, so make sure the size of it fits your needs

 

[beeblebrox]

It has been a minute since I used my 3D printer, it would seem that I need to tweak my settings again. I am printing some permanently mounted fin alignment guides to fit a 54mm mount, inside a 3" airframe. The first test prints came out a little 'stringy' to say the least. I am using PetG.

View attachment 550232

Those do not look structural anyway, just spacers for keeping things in the right place until epoxy cures. They don't need to be PETG, you could use PLA+ for that just as well for that., However, they don't look that stringy tho...

 

[DRAGON64]

These are fin alignment guides whose job is done once the JB Weld cures. They will be permanently entombed inside the rocket and will provide a little more surface area to attach to the inner airframe. These will also structurally protect the root end of the fin from from breaking loose should recovery put a hard hit on a fin. Being in such close proximity to the motor tube, I opt for PetG for its better heat resistance.

I have made larger versions of this design for a 98mm motor mount: