Dinkel GX Kleinefeuerwerkswaffe

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One of my other hobbies is/was pen turning and it was very common to make custom blanks from Polyester Resin. My wife and I did it a lot and then turned the results on the wood lathe.

If you're interested in some info from what we learned, I'll be glad to pass it along, but also don't want to write a long post and find out you already knew about it from a different hobby.

To get water clear castings, degassing with a vacuum pump is very helpful and also pressure casting can be helpful. If you made the nosecone solid resin, it would weigh a buuuuuuuuuunch. If you drill it out to put the pilot in, it'll take a good bit of polishing with a Dremel or similar to make it look clear. I could see making a simple mold, suspending the pilot in it, pouring half of the mold, letting it go green, then pouring the second half. It would be heavy, clear and able to be shaped/sanded on the lathe and finished on the buffing wheel. Possible parting line visibility, but maybe not.

OK, too much unrequested info already. . . I'll shut up now, as you obviously do good work and probably have had your hands in tons of different hobbies over the years. . .

Sandy.
Thanks for the suggestions. We're thinking along the same lines.
 
I was just having this argument in another thread (Draggy L2 Rocket), and "Oddrocs" were basically poo-poo'ed to keep out spools and pyramids, but, if you do something fairly normal with ring fins or tube fins, that's very allowable. If you can show a SIM that your design is stable and will fly in a non-dangerous fashion, it will likely be allowed.
Normal... :barf:
 
Normal... :barf:
Normal is in the eye of the beholder. You just need ... normal enough. The P-40 would be fine, as would an upscale of the Luke and Vader. Even the GDS (in single stage) might fly since you have a subscale that demonstrates that it works.
 
One of my other hobbies is/was pen turning and it was very common to make custom blanks from Polyester Resin. My wife and I did it a lot and then turned the results on the wood lathe.

If you're interested in some info from what we learned, I'll be glad to pass it along, but also don't want to write a long post and find out you already knew about it from a different hobby.

To get water clear castings, degassing with a vacuum pump is very helpful and also pressure casting can be helpful. If you made the nosecone solid resin, it would weigh a buuuuuuuuuunch. If you drill it out to put the pilot in, it'll take a good bit of polishing with a Dremel or similar to make it look clear. I could see making a simple mold, suspending the pilot in it, pouring half of the mold, letting it go green, then pouring the second half. It would be heavy, clear and able to be shaped/sanded on the lathe and finished on the buffing wheel. Possible parting line visibility, but maybe not.

OK, too much unrequested info already. . . I'll shut up now, as you obviously do good work and probably have had your hands in tons of different hobbies over the years. . .

Sandy.
I like this idea, two halves in Sagittal plane. The line would easily be obscured by the overlying windshield braces or struts or whatever they are called.
 
Normal is in the eye of the beholder. You just need ... normal enough. The P-40 would be fine, as would an upscale of the Luke and Vader. Even the GDS (in single stage) might fly since you have a subscale that demonstrates that it works.
Sweet... Thanks for your input.
 
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