In the past I've had problems with paint incompatibility so these days I try to stick with one brand. Rustoleum seems to be good enough and readily available. I've been using their 2X primer and it sands pretty easily, but when I tried to buy more I found that it was replaced with their new "universal primer" that is supposed to stick to anything. But they don't say anything about it being sandable. They have automotive primer which probably is sandable but it doesn't come in white and I prefer white.
Rustoleum primer?
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lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
Hmm it amazes me how often they change their marketing. I had good luck with the 2X also.
That being said... the absolute best rattle can primers, IMO, is either of these.
Scott_650
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Rusto 2X Primer, like any straight primer, is about helping ensure two things - even color coats and paint adhesion - not filling imperfections beyond very, very fine sanding lines. As lakeroadster mentioned already the Filler & Sandable and Sandable Rusto primers work well. The F & S primer will help fill spirals - it’s not a substitute for thinned Elmer’s Carpenter Wood Filler or spot glazing putty but in my experience it usually takes care of the “secondary” spirals present on most craft tubing. The Sandable primer is also a filler style primer, but it doesn’t have the high amount of solids in F & S - though it is a little easier to sand. I’ve used both these Rusto primers under various brands of paint with no compatibility problems. However there’s no absolute certainty with consumer grade rattle can paint, sometimes, no matter what we do or how well we do it, we get a crummy result - so keep plenty of sandpaper on hand 
Slight addition on top of lakeroadster's two: I use this Auto Filler Primer which I buy from my local Walmart, and have seen at Lowes and Home Depot on occasion:
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
That comes in Gray and also Red-Oxide...
I would love to find the red oxide color. Never seen it in the wild at my Indianapolis area stores.
lakeroadster
When in doubt... build hell-for-stout!
Probably can order it from Home Depot...
GlueckAuf
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I've used Rustoleum's 2 in 1 Filler & Sandable Primer this week on a new 38mm Blue Tube center section for one of my older birds.
After working Minwax wood filler into the spirals followed by an initial dry sanding, here's the result of four light coats, each given a day or two to dry..
Then today, after giving the primered air frame a wet sanding with 3M 400-grit Wetordry...
I had to paint outdoors, which concerned me a bit as the temperatures were in the mid-30s with very low humidity. But the cans and surfaces were room temperature at the start and I brought the freshly-painted piece inside immediately.
I don't think I couldn't ask for better surface prep using this product. I have a new favorite primer as the foundation for the Rustoleum enamel paint that fills my cabinets.
After working Minwax wood filler into the spirals followed by an initial dry sanding, here's the result of four light coats, each given a day or two to dry..
Then today, after giving the primered air frame a wet sanding with 3M 400-grit Wetordry...
I had to paint outdoors, which concerned me a bit as the temperatures were in the mid-30s with very low humidity. But the cans and surfaces were room temperature at the start and I brought the freshly-painted piece inside immediately.
I don't think I couldn't ask for better surface prep using this product. I have a new favorite primer as the foundation for the Rustoleum enamel paint that fills my cabinets.
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I used the 2 into 1 filler this week after hand filling the spirals with CWF and a good pre-sanding. 3 coats sanded down to 80% and sprayed 2 more top coats of primer (400-600G sand) before 4 coats of color. Dry time between primer coats 24hr and color sit for another week before decals, another 72hrs before clear applied.
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While I absolutely hate their paint to the point that I gathered up all of their brand an threw it in the trash about a 18 months ago, their primers aren't the worst I've seen IF you don't mind the drying time. I've found that I can't touch anything for at least three to four days after priming. Sometimes longer if the weather is cool.
I've switched to SEM brand high build. It's expensive but you don't have the multiple day wait times. I typically do two or three coats and it's ready to sand and top coat in an hour. Never had a reaction to other brands of paint and it comes in multiple colors.
I've switched to SEM brand high build. It's expensive but you don't have the multiple day wait times. I typically do two or three coats and it's ready to sand and top coat in an hour. Never had a reaction to other brands of paint and it comes in multiple colors.
Link to the SEM high build primer you use? I'd like to try it. Thank you
Link to the SEM high build primer you use? I'd like to try it. Thank you
https://www.semproducts.com/product/high-build-primer-surfacer/42013#product-details
Yes
icyclops
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Not necessarily. If you read its uses it is made to go over hard surfaces like steel, aluminum, fiberglass, hard plastics….I think if there is too much flex in certain unreinforced areas of the paper body tube it may fracture/crack on hard landings. That is what I have found could happen in this case.
I have used this primer on numerous rockets as well as countless other projects both in and out of the hobby world. It adheres better than anything else I have used over the counter.
Unfortunately I have had rocket failures where the rocket has come down and hit the ground and I have experienced no flaking Or any other issues.
This is also the only thing I have found that will adhere to LOC nose cones Without an adhesion promoter
icyclops
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If I work during the winter months I always bring the sprayed project inside after the initial paint smell has gassed off to let it cure properly….saves a lot of drying time. If it hasn’t dried to where you can handle it loosely within an hour then it is either too cold or your spray coat is too thick…never had any problems with rustoleum (primer or topcoats) for that matter. But if SEM is what works best for you then I always say use what works for you.
I normally use an airbrush and other paints for my more complex topcoats or clear finishes and use the rattlecan for thick filling primers…but to each his own
mg444
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I guess I'm by myself here, but I'm a Krylon guy. I use Dupli-Color primer / filler (which is owned by Krylon) and you can sand very easily. It comes in grey and rust colors (as far as I know). After letting dry for 24 hours, I paint with Krylon spray paint and have no issues.
I did have a issue with Krylon gloss clear coat, but I don't think I waited long enough for the paint to dry and everything cracked. This time I'm going to let the paint dry until it doesn't smell (probably 4-5 days) and try.
I did have a issue with Krylon gloss clear coat, but I don't think I waited long enough for the paint to dry and everything cracked. This time I'm going to let the paint dry until it doesn't smell (probably 4-5 days) and try.
Many years ago I used Krylon and had good luck with it, I thought it was the best brand you could buy. Then there was an era where products like paint got reformulated to reduce gases and Krylon didn't work very well. I switched to Rustoleoum and had good luck with it. I haven't gone back to try Krylon again, it might be great for all I know.
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