How Do You Cut G10?

[gary7]

Recommendations of those experienced in cutting G10 would be most helpful please. I do not have a scroll saw. Need to make lots of curved cuts.

 

[daveyfire]

I use a jigsaw with a fine tooth/metal cutting blade. This has its limits; when I did 3/16" G10 fins on my 2/3 scale Tomahawk with its big bat wings, I decided to have them waterjet instead. Jigsaw would have been a pain on that scale.

 

[maxvelocity]

4" angle grinder with a metal cutting cut off wheel. Just can't be beat (at the price level) I use this for cutting my fins out and also for putting perfect bevels on them.

 

[kenstarr]

The metal cutting blade will wear out quite quickly but works. Best thing I've found is the diamond grit blade for cutting tile and stuff. It's an expensive blade but so worth it when you realize it's lots cheaper than going through the metal cutting blades.
-Ken

 

[KenRico]

I bought some of these based on Oddmanrockets recommendation :

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-inch-cut-off-wheels-3-pack-34749.html

Used last night to cut sleds , and last week for Blackhawk 38 clone fins - and then slotted the LOC MMT 1.38 with the rotary tool and these blades.. 8 inches for the fins .

Kenny

 

[gary7]

No doubt these might work ok for straight work. But cutting a lot of curves may leave me with a lot more grinding and sanding than I am interested in doing.

This is my project:

 

[dixontj93060]

Gary with those shapes I think you are going to have to bite the bullet and get a scroll saw; see: https://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?56845-Scroll-saw-use-and-blade-availability-

 

[accpool]

Recommendations of those experienced in cutting G10 would be most helpful please. I do not have a scroll saw. Need to make lots of curved cuts.

you need one https://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-variable-speed-scroll-saw-93012.html

 

[botscott08]

I make a template out of MDF, rough cut the G10 with a bandsaw, attach the template to the G10 with spray adhesive and then run the part on a router table with a flush cutting bit. This technique is great for making exact copies of your template easily. The alternative is to just cut parts on a CNC router.

 

[maxvelocity]

Those shapes can be done with the grinder and metal cutting cut off wheel. First cut wont be exact and you will need a little grinding but you can get close. However I speak with years of cutting sheet metal and G10 this way so it may not be so easy for everyone.

 

[Aksrockets]

Nothing better then a jigsaw with a Carbide grit abrasive blade! Cuts G10 like butter and I still havnt dulled mine. Gone through a few sheets of 1/16-3/32 G10/Carbon. Great for curves too.



Or find someone with a CNC. There's a few guys on here that might be willing to lend a hand.

Alex

 

[gary7]

Nothing better then a jigsaw with a Carbide grit abrasive blade! Cuts G10 like butter and I still havnt dulled mine. Gone through a few sheets of 1/16-3/32 G10/Carbon. Great for curves too.

View attachment 145501

Alex

Ok, maybe not quite like butter but they do work rather well. Just have to take your time. Thanks for the recommendation, Alex!

 

[warnerr]

For clean square cuts i use a diamond blade wet saw: Tile saw is fast, smooth, square, and Clean.

 

[cavecentral]

I use a table saw w/ composite blade for the straight cuts. If I have a centering too big, sanding with a disc sander does wonders. I'd consider roughing it then sanding with a disc sander if all surfaces are reachable to achieve a curve. Just mark your target with a sharpie.

Normal scroll saw blades become toothless pretty quick.

 

[Hobie1dog]

For clean square cuts i use a diamond blade wet saw: Tile saw is fast, smooth, square, and Clean.

I've been trying to do research lately on this topic and everyone seems to suggest using the diamond tipped blades whether it be a jigsaw blade or a circular blade but they all have the rough looking, non tooth design and the only thing I can find is that they are used for Wet Tile saws. And looking over the classified sites used wet tile saws are only $20 to $50. I found some miniature table saws which use I think a 3 or 4-inch blade and have a small separate power supply to them but they're pretty cheap at $50 or so, but a tile saw may be way to go as I would suspect it would have a lot bigger motor than the 300 watt motor/ 9K rpm speed that are put in the little hobby table saws.

 

[Banzai88]

8 year thread necropsy.

I've been using standard fine tooth band saw blades for cutting sheet for fins. Works just fine on tubes, too.

Although I've found that the single best way to cut G10/G12 is to send the computer file and some $$ to Nat Kinsey of Upscale CNC and await delivery in the mail.

 

[tsmith1315]

the only thing I can find is that they are used for Wet Tile saws.

Marty, this is a tungsten carbide jigsaw blade from Lowe's. Around $6, IIRC:



I still have the package somewhere if you need more info!

 

[Hobie1dog]

I also found this from the Legend Vern Knowles on what he uses and gives the numbers of the blades he uses:
https://www.vernk.com/Construction/StarfireFinCan.htm

 

[BigMacDaddy]

I do not know anything about this first hand but Fred commented on my CNC Router thread that a CNC can cut 3/16ths G10.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/budget-laser-cutter-or-cnc-for-cutting-fins.169224/

Before you invest in a laser or CNC, you may want to research and visit a makelab in your vicinity. If its anything like mine, you'll have laser cutters, cnc machines and 3D printers available. The best part is the experience and classes that are offered which will accelerate the completion of your projects. One last note, if you build fiberglass rockets, the decent CNCs can easily cut 3/16th inch G 10 (for fins) or 1/2 inch plywood easily (altimeter sleds etc). The laser printers we use (40 and 75 watts) can cut 1/4 inch plywood well but G10 is incompatible with laser cutters. The same with aluminum.
Good luck!
Fred

 

[Rocketjunkie]

CARBIDE! Lasts a LONG time. Either a grit hacksaw blade available at Lowes or a rotary file (burr) from McMaster that fits in your dremel.

 

[FMarvinS]

BigMacDaddy-below is a 3/16th inch G10 sheet fresh off an Inventibles X-Carve CNC with 2 cut fins. This demonstrates some of the options with a CNC. Also, Bazai 88 recommended Nat Kinsey who does exceptional work at reasonable prices.



Fred, L2
ICBM, S.C.
KG4YGP

 

[Woody's Workshop]

Recommendations of those experienced in cutting G10 would be most helpful please. I do not have a scroll saw. Need to make lots of curved cuts.

With a very good dust and particulate mask....No matter what tool used.
But Band Saw comes to my mind.

 

[Steve Shannon]

A wet tile saw is the perfect tool to cut g10, fr-4, g12, or any similar composite material. The water captures the dust, making it safe and easy. G10 doesn’t mind water. The motors have a geared down low speed and if a blade does make contact with your skin they are safer than carbide toothed blades spinning at a high speed.

 

[beeblebrox]

For thin G10 (0.030" thick) I just score the surface with a Stanley knife blade (X-Acto blade is too fragile.) Then break it over the edge of the table. Once you have them all cut out clamp them all together and sand the edges smooth with a belt sander. I use Diablo belts. they last a long time. Remember to design your fins with no inside corners to cut out. Make thru the wall tabs to the ends of the fins... For larger high power rockets, make two panels per fin, tape the outside edges together, them bow them out with a piece of tapered balsa inside to create a nice airfoil. Bond the edges together inside with epoxy.

Examples to illustrate only, not a specific fin...
1: Easiest to cut
2: Easy to cut and has flats for locating to centering rings.
3: Difficult to cut.

 

[Hobie1dog]

Tile saw video:


Looks perfect for G10 fins, small, table top design, $64.00 new. I don't know if I could justify it as I would only use it twice a year or so.

 

[cautery]

I've never owned a scroll saw OR a band saw, but either of those would be quite useful.
Obviously, I would prefer a CNC machine (water, laser, or tooled), but that ain't gonna happen.

My personal workaround would be similar to one mentioned above... I'd create a template for my plunge router or table router, and use CARBIDE flush cut bits (bottom bearing) in the largest diameter I could make work. I'd even try to use multiple bit diameters to avoid burning up a 1/8" or 3/16" bit. Bigger is better for bit life IMO.

On inside corners smaller than available radius bit, you can just stop short and use a quality pull saw or Dremel burr.... And then sand to blend.
Depending on how good you are, you can go right to final dims, but on fins, or parts that need to be balanced/identical like fins, I'd cut my template to 1/64"-1/32" oversize and sand down to exact dims, using appropriate tools.

Oh.... old thread... Sorry!

 

[REK]

No doubt these might work ok for straight work. But cutting a lot of curves may leave me with a lot more grinding and sanding than I am interested in doing.

This is my project:

View attachment 145494

looking at those templates I would recommend a CNC router to cut those. That is something I would not try to tackle with a jig saw or any other type of tool if you want the best finish and accuracy.

 

[Hobie1dog]

And where does everyone buy their 1/8" thick sheets from? I went to McMaster Carr and saw a yellow sheet meant for indoor use which is a lot cheaper than the green outdoor rated stuff. But I figured once you painted it that it would not be an issue.

 

[Steve Shannon]

Just Google G10 material and you’ll get a few thousand choices.

You might try the rocket vendors first.

 

[MJW]

A water jet abrasive cutter works great for shapes that a tile saw can't manage. Not really a hobbyist tool, but increasingly common for small metal fab shops to have one. The one I use only asks for a DXF file and the G10 stock. When they have idle time on the tool they'll run my stuff at bargain pricing.